Home Europe Explore majestic Eysturoy, Kalsoy and the Northern Faroe Islands

Explore majestic Eysturoy, Kalsoy and the Northern Faroe Islands

by Andy Vanr

Eysturoy and the Northern Faroe Islands abound with natural beauty and ancient folklore.

This road trip guide reveals the region’s treasures, from the picturesque villages of Gjógv and Funnigur to the stories of the Seal Woman in Mikladalur.  Explore the more remote corners of the Faroe Islands.

Northern Faroe Islands Itinerary

This road trip visits Eysturoy, Borðoy and Kalsoy Islands. 

With additional time, explore the islands of Kunoy and Viðoy.

Northern Faroe Islands Map

Map of Eysturoy and Kalsoy Islands, Faroe Islands, showing landmarks like Risin og Kellingin, Kallur Lighthouse, Mikladur and Seal Woman Statue, and various towns connected by roads and ferries.
👆 Click the map to get your free interactive version.

Eysturoy and the Northern Islands are the 7 most easterly of the Faroe Islands and make up 38% of the country’s land area.

Eysturoy Island

This island is the second largest of the Faroes in area and population.   It is mainly undeveloped mountainous land, with over 60 mountain peaks, including the Faroe’s highest.  The country’s two longest fjords, Skálafjørður in the south and Funningsfjørður in the north, almost split the island in two halves.

Our road trip also splits Eysturoy into two halves, beginning in the island’s northwest corner and the village of Eiði.  (The road trip ends in the southern half.)

Eiði

The fishing village of Eiði is picturesque with plenty of breathtaking views.

Visit the pretty, white Eiðis Church with its beautiful, green doors and gold trim.  It was completed in 1881 of stone instead of wood, due to villagers’ concerns about how quickly wood supplies were being used.

Coastal Eiði with colourful houses and a small harbor, set on a hilly landscape beside the ocean.
The homes in Eiði are found around the base of Eiðiskollur Mountain.
Andy stands smiling in front of a green decorative door set in a stone archway of the Eiðis Church.
Behind me is the stunning green door trimmed in gold of the Eiðis Church.

Archaeological findings have confirmed that Vikings settled in this area in the 9th century.  For more local history, pop over to Látrið – Eidi Museum. (Visits are by appointment only).  This museum is housed in the oldest building in Eiði, which dates back to 1840.

For hikers, the very difficult Eiðiskollur Trail climbs Eiðiskollur mountain on the northwest corner of the island.  At 352 metres high, it’s the perfect place for great views of the two sea stacks, known as Risin and Kellingin just off the coast, the ocean cliffs and village below. 

For an easier hike, take the Runt um vatnid trail to Niðara Vatn Lake just north of the village. The trail begins at the village football stadium and loops around the lake.

Leave Eiði, and drive east until you reach the viewpoint.

Risin og Kellingin Viewpoint

The two, freestanding, sea stacks just off the northwest tip of the Eysturoy are called Risin and Kellingin in Faroese, the Giant and the Witch.

The Giant (Risin) measures 71 metres tall and is the farthest from the coast.  The Witch (Kellingin) is 68 metres tall.  Legend tells that during the night these two tried to steal the Faroe Islands and drag them closer to Iceland.  However, before they finished the sun rose and they were turned to stone.

Sheep graze on a grassy cliffside overlooking the ocean, with Risin og Kellingin Sea Stacks rising from the sea in the background.
From the viewpoint get a close-up view of the Giant and Witch sea stacks (Risin og Kellingin) off the coast of Eysturoy.
Andy's hand on the permanently mounted green binoculars at Risin og Kellingin Viewpoint with green fields and cliffs in the background.
The viewpoint has public binoculars for a close up look at the Giant and Witch.

This viewpoint, complete with public binoculars, is great place to view these giant sea stacks. These sea stacks can also be seen from the village of Tjørnuvík which we visited on our road trip of Streymoy.  

Continue driving eastward.  The Slættaratindur Mountain is located between the villages of Eiði and Funningur.

Slættaratindur Mountain Trail

If you’re up for a serious challenge, the Slættaratindur Mountain Trail is for you. At 880 metres high, the mountain is the highest peak in the Faroe Islands. On a clear day, you can see all 18 Faroese islands from its flat summit.  The word slættaratindur translates to “flat summit”.

For those keen to tackle this mountain, the 3.5-kilometre, out-and-back hike takes about 2 to 2.5 hours. The path is well-marked but can be tricky in spots near the top where it gets gravelly.

The hike begins at the Eiðisskarð Parking Lot, just off the main road.  Both the parking and the trail are free to use.  Bring your rain gear for the constantly changing weather conditions and enjoy the spectacular views.

A pair of hikers walk up Slættaratindur Mountain trail on grassy hill with a rocky cairn in the foreground.
This is the starting point for the hike up Slættaratindur, the highest peak in the Faroe Islands.

Continue north toward the village of Gjógv, on the northeast tip of Eysturoy.  Our next stop is about 5 minutes down the road.

Mount Hvithamar Viewpoint

The Hvithamar Trailhead is just off the road.  The triangular-shaped, 1.5 kilometre, loop trail is an easy walk that leads to the stunning Mount Hvithamar viewpoint.

The path is well-marked with short green poles leading to the viewpoint of the Funningur Fjord and the village of Funningur below.

Continue to Gjógv at the end of the road.

Gjógv

The word gjógv means ‘gorge’ in Faroese.  This becomes an obvious name for the village when you see its 200-metre-long sea-filled gorge.

The gorge ends at Gjógv’s Natural Harbour which is still used by a few local fishermen.  Take a break at the cafe above the harbour.  We walked down the concrete ramp for more photos of the harbour and the steep cliffs of the gorge.

Andy walks up the steep concrete ramp with rail tracks at the end of the Gjógv Natural Harbour.
Gjógv’s 200-metre-long, sea-filled gorge ends at its natural harbour. Boats and cargo were hauled up and down the concrete ramp I’m looking at.
Val taking photos near the rugged coastline of the Gjógv Gorge with cliffs, green grass, and a blue sea.
Val is taking pictures of the headland across from the opening of the gorge that gives the village of Gjógv its name.

Walk along the headland to Mary’s Bench, named in honour of the Crown Princess of Denmark, who visited in 2005. This headland offers stunning views of the fjord and rocky coast.  Hikers can take the trail on the north side of the gorge, high above the village, although some hikers have reported that the trail is unsafe in spots.

Gjógv is also one of the areas on the Faroe Islands (in addition to Mykines Island) where you can see puffins during the summer months of June to August.

Before leaving, stop by the Gjógv Kirkja.  The modern, green-roofed church, built in 1929, and nearby memorial park are perfect for great photos.  Inside the church, find simple but elegant white decor and wooden pews.

Gjógv village with colourful houses, a white church with a green roof, and a high grassy hill in the background.
The brightly coloured buildings in the village of Gjógv shine in the sunlight including the green-roofed church on the right.

Leave the village and drive south to Funningur. 

Funningur

This is recognized as the location of the first settlement in the Faroe Islands.  “Funningur” means “found land” in Faroese.  The old book De mensura Orbis terrae records an event around 825 AD called the “land taking”.  The event describes the first Norse settlers who arrived at Funningur displacing Irish hermits that were quietly living on the islands.

The Grímur Kamban Sculpture is near the shoreline.  Created by artist Hans Pauli Olsen, the sculpture preserves the legend of Grímur Kamban, said to be the first Viking settler.

Be sure to visit the Church of Funningur.  This beautiful, black, turf-roofed church was built in 1847.  The church is described as “one of ten artistic wooden churches remaining” on the Faroe Islands.  Admire the all-wood interior design, from floor-to-ceiling.

Black wooden Funningur Church with a grass roof stands near a rocky shoreline, surrounded by stone walls, with mountains and the sea in the background.
Funningur’s turf-roofed church was built in 1847. The village is recognized as the first Viking settlement in the Faroe Islands

Continue south and take Highway 10 east, driving through Nordoyatunnilin, the tunnel connecting the islands of Eysturoy and Borðoy.

Norðoyar (The Northern Islands)

The Norðoyar, or Northern Islands, is the collective name for the six northern Faroe islands of Borðoy, Fugloy, Kalsoy, Kunoy, Svínoy and Viðoy.

The islands are all known for rugged scenery, steep mountains and scenic hiking.

Our road trip visits Borðoy Island’s Klaksvik and Kalsoy Island.

Borðoy Island

Borðoy is the largest of the northern islands and acts as the group’s service hub.  It’s the gateway to the Northern Islands and the only one which connects to other Faroe islands.

Klaksvík

The busy fishing port of Klaksvík is the Faroes’ second largest town.

The modern Christian’s Church of Klaksvík, built in 1963, is worth a visit.  See the beautiful fresco painting, The Great Banquet, created by Danish painter, Joakim Skovgaard in 1901.  The painting fills the entire front wall of the church.

Stone Christian's Church with a white cross at the peak of the end gable. Cars are parked nearby.
The modern Christian’s Church in Klaksvík was built in 1963.
A large, intricate mural called The Great Banquet depicting a religious scene with multiple figures is displayed on a wall inside Christian's Church Klaksvík.
The beautiful fresco painting The Great Banquet by Joakim Skovgaard hangs at the front of Klaksvík’s Christian’s Church. Skovgaard is best known for his frescos in the Cathedral in Viborg, Denmark which he completed between 1901–06. This one was part of that set but was moved to save it from water damage.

For a glimpse into local history, visit the Museum of the Northern Islands (Norðoya Fornminnissavn).  The museum, located in the old building of the Danish Royal Trade Monopoly (1838), includes an original pharmacy store.  Other exhibits include paintings, tools and historical artifacts.

For hikers, the Klakkur Trail climbs from Klaksvík’s centre to the 380-metre summit of the Klakkur Mountain.  The out-and-back trail is 9.3 kilometres round trip.  For a shorter hike, drive to the end of the gravel road (Niðan Horn) in the housing development on the southwest side of the town to begin your hike.  From the summit, enjoy the panoramic view of the fjords and Klaksvík below.

Klakvík nestled between steep hills, overlooking the harbour with a cruise ship.
Looking north over Klaksvík, the Faroes’ second-largest town and busy fishing port on Borðoy Island.

Klaksvík is the departure point for the ferry to Kalsoy Island.

Kalsoy Island

Kalsoy Island is known for its rugged cliffs and great views.  The entire length of the western coast has steep cliffs.  The valleys on the eastern side protect four, tiny, sparsely-populated villages with limited services.

We packed a picnic lunch and water for our afternoon visit to the island.  Enjoy the remote and authentic Faroese experience. 

Kalsoy’s most popular attractions are the Kallur Lighthouse Trail and the Seal Woman Statue.

Val stands on the ferry to Kalsoy, approaching the coastal village of Syðradalur against green hills.
We are arriving in Syðradalur, Kalsoy Island on the ferry from Klaksvík after a scenic 20-minute ride.

Kalsoy Ferry

The only way to get to the island is by ferry.  Be sure to book the ferry from Klaksvík to the village of Syðradalur.  It’s a relaxing 20-minute ride with scenic views of the surrounding fjords.

Kalsoy has public bus service for travel from village-to-village.  The schedule is conveniently timed with the ferry’s arrival and departure times.  For a bit more flexibility, we think it’s a good idea to bring your car to explore the island fully.

One-Lane Tunnels and the Villages of Kalsoy

A single highway runs the length of the island for 18 kilometres.  This roadway connects the Kalsoy’s four villages: Syðradalur, Húsar, Mikladalur, and Trøllanes.

A unique feature of Kalsoy is their one-lane tunnels.

Andy stands smiling near a road with moving cars on Kalsoy Island. In the background, a tunnel entrance is visible in the hillside.
I am standing outside one of Kalsoy’s four one-lane tunnels which connect the island’s four villages.

Driving through these tunnels can be tricky.  They are dark (unlit).  Cars can only pass each other inside the tunnels at specific spots marked with an “M” where the tunnel is two cars wide.  One direction is the “priority” direction.  If two cars meet, the car without priority must pull into the nearest “M”-marked passing spot and allow the other car to pass.  These are about every 100 metres or so.  Despite these challenges, I actually found them quite fun to drive through.

The villages on Kalsoy are very picturesque.  Syðradalur, the most southern village, is the first stop for travellers arriving on the ferry.  For those interested, there is a short 15-minute hike to the Syðradalur lighthouse, located just south of the ferry terminal.

We made a brief stop in Húsar, the oldest village on Kalsoy, at the Húsar Church. Built in 1920, this bright red church surprised us with its unique whale-shaped door handles.

The coastal village of Húsar with colourful houses and a red-roofed church, set against a backdrop of green hills and distant mountains by the sea.
A view of Húsar, the oldest village on Kalsoy Island. The church stands practically alone on the left side of the road.
Close-up of a brass whale-shaped door handle on the red door of Húsar Church.
It is the small details like this unique whale-shaped door handle of the Húsar Church that you often remember from a great road trip.

The next village is Mikladalur, home to the iconic Seal Woman statue.

Seal Woman (Kópakonan)

Walk down the concrete walkway from the centre of the village and down the stairs to the left.  The striking statue of the Seal Woman (or Kópakonan, in Faroese) becomes visible at the shore.

This is one of the most iconic sights of the Faroe Islands.  This stunning, bronze statue was designed by Hans Pauli Olsen and installed in 2014.  She is 2.6 metres tall and weighs 450 kilograms.

Andy wearing a winter jacket and hat stands on the concrete walkway near grass-covered buildings by the ocean with mountains in the background.
I’m at the top of the concrete walkway and stairs leading down to the Seal Woman statue in Mikladalur.
Bronze statue of Seal Woman in Mikladalur stands on rocks by the sea, with a cliff in the background.
We lucked out with a sunlit view of the 2.6-metre-tall Seal Woman statue by Hans Pauli Olsen. She represents the mythical selkie from Faroese folklore.

The statue represents a selkie, a mythical seal-like creature from a famous Faroese folktale.  It can shed its seal skin and become human.  In the tale, a farmer compels the seal-woman to marry him after he hides her seal skin.  The story ends tragically, prompting the selkie to place a curse on the men of Mikladalur.  For the full story, read the folktale on the sign at the top of the walkway.

Most of our day on Kalsoy was cloudy and dark.  But, as fate would have it, the sun broke through late in the day allowing us the opportunity for this beautiful, sun-lit photo of the Seal Woman.

Mikladalur

At the top of the walkway, on the right, is Marjun’s Lifting Stone.  The mural on the side of the building behind the stone is of Marjun with her milk buckets and is a beautiful work of art.  A 16th-century legend tells the story of a housemaid named Marjun, who became pregnant out of wedlock.  At the time, the condition was punishable by death.  To leave behind a lasting testament to her strength, she lifted a large stone, and become immortalized in local folklore.

A large rock sits in front of a mural on a building wall depicting Marjun, a housemaid in traditional Faroese clothing.
This mural depicts Marjun the disgraced housemaid walking to milk cows. Legend says she picked up a heavy lifting stone and became part of local folklore.

We also walked by the whitewashed, red-roofed Mikladalur Church surrounded by its peaceful cemetery.

Trøllanes and the Kallur Lighthouse

The highway ends at the village of Trøllanes, the northern tip of Kalsoy.  The village’s name means “troll peninsula” in Faroese.  Folklore tells of trolls that came to the village to dance on the Twelfth Night of Christmas.

The popular hike to the Kallur Lighthouse, begins just to the northwest of the village parking lot.

The lighthouse is perched high on a cliff on the island’s northernmost point.  The trail offers stunning views of Kalsoy’s rugged coastline.  The trail starts out steep but levels off following a well-trodden path.  The hike to Kallur Lighthouse takes about 45 minutes each way.

The trail has become very popular with James Bond fans.  Scenes from the Bond film No Time to Die (2021) were shot here.  The village and its surroundings were transformed into the villain’s base.  There is even a James Bond Gravestone on the hill for fans to visit, marking the spot where Bond met his end in the movie.

Note:  This trail is on private land.  Unfortunately, you’ll have to pay a fee of 200 DKK to walk to the lighthouse.

Green hillside with a few red and black farm buildings in Trøllanes, Kalsoy Island. A stone wall and grassy field are in the foreground.
The scenic trail leading to Kallur Lighthouse on the northernmost point of Kalsoy Island begins at the red building whose red end gable is visible on the right. The trail goes up and over the mountain at the back of the photo.

We did not hike the trail, as our time was tight to catch our return ferry.  We enjoyed a walk around the village.

Trøllanes is another place known for puffins.  They may be seen during the summer months of July and August from a viewing area set up for visitors.  From this area, you can also see the natural harbour far below.

Another village curiosity is the small “Kiosk at the End of the World”, which sells coffee and ice cream.  Just ring the bell for service!

As we were leaving the village, we wandered by the walled Trøllanes Churchyard.  This cemetery was consecrated in 1835, with the first community burials in 1839.

Aerial view of Trøllanes village with green fields, houses, and a rugged cliff edge meeting the ocean.
Aerial view of Trøllanes, the northernmost village on Kalsoy Island. Puffins often come to nest in the cliffs on the left in the summer months.

Return to Syðradalur, completing your visit to Kalsoy, and take the ferry back to Klaksvík.

At this point, we turned west and drove back through the Nordoyatunnilin returning to Eysturoy Island.

With more time, explore the islands of Kunoy and Viðoy. Both are connected to Borðoy by causeways.  To reach them, leave Klaksvik and turn north.  At the village of Ánir either drive north to cross to Kunoy or turn east toward Viðoy.

Continuing east, two road tunnels have been cut on either side of a pretty valley.  The valley opens to the sea and the village of Árnafjørður known for its calm, sandy beach.

The village of Norðdepil, on Borðoy’s east coast, is the location of the causeway to Viðoy.

Viðoy Island

This is the northernmost island in the Faroes.

The causeway crosses to the Viðoy village of Hvannasund.  The ferry to the smallest of the northern islands, Fugloy and Svínoy, leaves from here.  While inhabited, there are few services. 

The village of Viðareiði, about a 10 minute drive north of Hvannasund, is the northernmost settlement in the Faroe Islands. 

Hikers can hike up the Villingardalsfjall, the northern islands’ highest mountain, or all the way to Cape Enniberg. 

The Cape is the northernmost point of the islands and its sea cliff, at 754 metres high, is the highest in Europe.  This is a day-long challenging hike and requires an experienced local guide.

Kunoy Island

The island has six of the Faroes highest mountains, all over 800 metres high.

Kunoy is recommended for serious hikers.  The island has two small villages connected by a road tunnel.  Haraldssund is on the east coast and Kunoy (named after the island) on the west coast.

South Eysturoy Island

If you have time there are several interesting places in Eysturoy’s south.

Lake Toftavatn is located between the villages of Runavik and Toftir.  The moorland around the lake is the Faroe Islands’ largest area of heather-clad mooreland attracting many species of birds.

To stretch your legs, walk the Lake Toftavatn trail, a 2.6-kilometre loop around the lake.  Enjoy the calm lake and its bird watching opportunities.  This flat, easy route takes about 35 minutes to complete.

For those not interested in a hike, visit the nearby churches in the villages of Toftir and Nes.

In Toftir, see beautiful Fríðrikskirkjan (Frederik’s church) completed in 1994.  It can seat 400 people. With its excellent acoustics, it is often used for concerts and musical events.  Its basement is equally large allowing 250 people to sit down for meals.

Illuminated, modern, triangular white Frederik's church at dusk near a waterfront,
An evening shot of the beautiful Fríðrikskirkjan in Toftir on Eysturoy Island.
Black and white Nes Church sits surrounded by a cemetery with several headstones.
The historic Nes Kirkja, a wooden church consecrated in 1843 is surrounded by its graveyard. The church is now used only for special occasions.

Just down the road is the much older Nes Kirkja.  This wooden church, consecrated in 1843, is only used for special occasions.  Its church bell was cast in 1684 and is the oldest one still in use in the islands. 

Beside the church is what remains of an old British World War II military installation.  Although not much is left, history buffs may enjoy seeing it.

To return to Tórshavn and Streymoy Island, drive through the Eysturoyartunnilin sub-sea tunnel.

Eysturoy Tunnel

This is the newest and the longest undersea tunnel in the Faroe Islands at 11 kilometres long.

Steel silhouette of people forms a circle with colourful lighting in red, black, and green behind on the Eysturoy Tunnel roundabout. A right-turn traffic sign is visible in the foreground.
The world’s first undersea roundabout, found in the Eysturoy Tunnel, is decorated with this illuminated art installation by Faroese Artist Tróndur Patursson.

The tunnel has become famous for having the world’s first undersea roundabout!  The illuminated roundabout is also an art installation.  Artist Tróndur Patursson created a massive steel structure around the central pillar.  It depicts figures holding hands around the roundabout.

Like many others I’m sure, we drove around it several times to get a good look.

Explore Our Complete Faroe Islands Itinerary

There’s even more to explore on the Faroe Islands. Discover our complete series of detailed guides to help you plan your perfect 5-day trip:

Main Article: 5 Days in the Faroe Islands
Day 1:  Tórshavn – Explore the capital city
Day 2:  Vágar Island – Iconic waterfalls and lakes
Day 3:  Streymoy Island – Historic villages and dramatic cliffs
Day 4:  Eysturoy, Kalsoy and the Northern Islands – You’re reading this guide now!
Day 5:  Suðuroy Island – The less travelled southern gem

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Andy is the co-founder of Avrex Travel, where he shares his many travel experiences. Andy enjoys videography and creating great Road Trips for his readers.