Home Latin America Cruising Through the Panama Canal: A Passenger’s Guide

Cruising Through the Panama Canal: A Passenger’s Guide

by Andy Vanr

Discover the Panama Canal, one of the world’s greatest engineering marvels.  We cruise from the Pacific through the mighty Miraflores Locks across Gatún Lake and exit the Gatún Locks on the Atlantic.

Our comprehensive guide has all the details to help you make the most of this bucket-list journey.

A Panama Canal Journey:  From Pacific to Atlantic

On our transit of the Panama Canal from the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic Ocean, we cruised through these locations:

Panama Canal – Transit Route Map

The starred locations on the map below are the major parts of the Panama Canal. The red line is the 82-kilometer route through the canal between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. We transited from south (Pacific) to north (Atlantic).

Map of the Panama Canal showing the Atlantic Entrance, Gatún Locks, Gatún Lake, Culebra Cut, Miraflores and Pedro Miguel Locks, and the Pacific Entrance.
This map highlights the Panama Canal lock system, its major landmarks and the route between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.

Pacific Entrance

The Pacific entrance, in the Gulf of Panama, marks the beginning of our 82-kilometer journey through the Panama Canal, one of the world’s greatest engineering feats.  The canal saves ships thousands of kilometers compared to the alternative route around South America and is managed by the Panama Canal Authority, an agency of the Panamanian government.

We were up at 6:00 am, eager to get a good viewing spot as our ship entered the canal from the Pacific side.  The stunning skyline of Panama’s capital, Panama City, came into view in the distance.

Colorful, geometric-roofed BioMuseum surrounded by trees with the Panama City skyline in the background and water of the Gulf of Panama in the foreground.
The Frank Gehry-designed BioMuseum’s bright red, green, blue, and yellow roof stands out against the buildings of Panama City. In 2014, when it opened, it was the world’s first museum dedicated to biodiversity.

The striking structure of the Frank-Gehry-designed BioMuseum is on the nearby causeway.  Opened 2014, it was the world’s first museum dedicated to understanding biodiversity and its importance.  The museum’s bright red, green, blue, and yellow roof covers a 4,000-square-meter building.  Eight galleries feature exhibits on Panama’s biodiversity and highlight Panama’s role in global biodiversity.  A 2.4-hectare botanical park surrounds the building.

Soon we sailed under the Bridge of the Americas which stretches 1.6 kilometers across the canal.  Its distinctive tied-arch design has a clearance of 61 meters at high tide, easily allowing massive ships to pass underneath.  Completed in 1962, it was a key part of the Pan-American Highway, a vital transportation link between North and South America.  The parallel Centennial Bridge, further down the canal, eventually became the carrier of the Pan-American Highway.

A crowd on a ship approaches the Bridge of the Americas over the Panama Canal. A flag is visible on the ship, under a clear blue sky.
The bow of our cruise ship was packed with people when we cruised under the Bridge of the Americas which opened in 1962 completing the Panama section of the Pan-American Highway.

In a couple of kilometers, the channel splits into two routes which pass through different locks.  A number of cargo ships proceed through the newer Cocolí Locks, which opened in 2016 as part of the Panama Canal’s ambitious expansion project.  These locks, with a width of 54.9 meters, are designed to accommodate the larger Neopanamax-sized vessels.

Our cruise ship, small in comparison, continued toward the Miraflores Locks, part of the century-old canal.  We were met by several tugboats as we neared the locks (and at each flight of locks in the canal).  The tugboats assist by providing additional propulsion, steering, and braking power to vessels through each lock.  This is particularly important for the huge Neopanamax ships. Tugboats also safeguard both ships and the canal in case of power or steering loss by ships navigating the locks.

Neopanamax container ship passing through the Panama Canal with a Centennial Bridge in the background, surrounded by greenery.
The massive vessel on the left is a Neopanamax ship. Canal expansion and construction of the Cocolí and Agua Clara Locks was completed in 2016 to accommodate these larger ships.
A tugboat navigates the Panama Canal surrounded by green hills under a partly cloudy sky, viewed from the rear of cruise ship.
Tugboats are essential to the safety of the locks themselves and the operation of the canal. They assist all ships by providing additional propulsion, steering, and braking power as they progress through each lock. Tugboats are particularly important for guiding the huge Neopanamax ships through the canal’s tight spaces.

Miraflores Locks

These were the first flight of locks on our journey through the Panama Canal.  The Miraflores Locks raise ships an impressive 16.5 meters.  The gates of the lowest chamber of this flight are noteworthy, as the canal’s tallest gates to handle the dramatic tidal fluctuations in the Gulf of Panama.  High tide is amplified due to the shape of the gulf so that the lock’s total lift varies between 13 and 20 meters.

If you are staying in Panama, the Miraflores Locks Visitor Center provides an excellent vantage point to observe this engineering feat, in operation since 1913.  We saw many people looking on.  The center has an IMAX theater and four exhibit halls with information about the canal’s history and operational mechanics.

A crowd on the bow of the ship watching as it is passing through the Panama Canal lock. The scene includes a blue sky and surrounding buildings.
Our cruise ship sits in the first chamber of our first flight of locks, the Miraflores Locks on the Pacific side. These locks raise ships an average of 16.5 meters and feature the canal’s tallest gates to handle the 6 meter tidal fluctuations in the Gulf of Panama.

After exiting the Miraflores Locks, we continued for 1.6 kilometers through small Miraflores Lake to the next lock. 

Miraflores Lake sits between the Miraflores Locks and the Pedro Miguel Locks. This unique configuration was a necessary modification of the original 3-lock flight.  Engineers discovered a tectonic fault in the bedrock where the third lock chamber would have been located.  They were forced to adjust their designs to account for this natural geologic feature.

Pedro Miguel Locks

Our cruise ship entered the single-chambered Pedro Miguel Locks.  This lock lifted us 9.3 meters, to the same elevation as Gatún Lake.

Upon exiting the Pedro Miguel Locks, the grand, two-towered Centennial Bridge came into view.  This cable-stayed bridge, with a total length of 1.05 kilometers, carries six lanes of traffic over the Panama Canal.

Opened in 2004 to relieve traffic congestion on the Bridge of the Americas, it eventually replaced it as the carrier of the Pan-American Highway.  Centennial Bridge played a large role in improving transportation efficiency in the region.  It commemorates the centennial of Panama’s independence in 2003.

With an 80-meter clearance under the bridge, our ship sailed smoothly beneath as we entered one of the canal’s most dramatic sections, the Culebra Cut.

A cruise ship navigates the Panama Canal Pedro Miguel Locks with passengers observing the process from the deck, surrounded by tropical greenery and machinery.
The single-step Pedro Miguel Lock moves vessels 9.3 meters between the elevations of Miraflores Lake and Gatún Lake. After exiting the locks, our curise ship sailed under the impressive Centennial Bridge before entering the Culebra Cut.
Val stands on a cruise ship. The Centennial Bridge and a blue sky are in the background.
The Centennial Bridge behind Val opened in 2004 to commemorate Panama’s independence centennial. A bit over a kilometer long, it eventually replaced the Bridge of the Americas as the carrier of the Pan-American Highway.

Culebra Cut (Gaillard Cut)

The Culebra Cut, also known as the Gaillard Cut, is an essential section of the Panama Canal.  Carved through Culebra Ridge, Panama’s continental divide, this 13.7-kilometer man-made gorge represents an extraordinary achievement in canal construction.  Traveling through the narrow channel, we were surrounded by excavated rock walls.

The excavation of the cut was the Panama Canal’s biggest construction challenge.  Unstable soil conditions combined with intense tropical heat created huge problems.  French engineers began digging in 1881 but abandoned the project in 1889.

American teams, led by engineer David du Bose Gaillard, took over in 1904 and completed the massive excavation project in 1913.  The channel, averaging around 43 meters deep, was widened in the 1990s to accommodate larger vessels.  It is named for both the ridge and the engineer who conquered it.

People on a ship's deck with blue awnings, sailing through Panama's Culebra Cut flanked by green hills under a partly cloudy sky. A flagpole with a flag is visible at the ship's bow.
Cruising through the 13.7-kilometer, man-made Culebra Cut it is hard to imagine the massive excavation efforts required to complete it in 1913.
Terraced hill with greenery under a blue sky, at the edge of Culebra Cut. Several people stand on a railing to the right, observing the view.
The Culebra Cut was the greatest engineering challenge in the construction of the Panama Canal. These stepped hills help to alleviate the instability created by hard igneous rocks interbedded with softer clay deposits. During construction many landslides added to the amount of material that needed to be removed. Monitoring stations along the canal route ensure that the effects of landslides are minimized now.

Leaving the Cut, our ship sailed past the small town of Gamboa, founded in 1911 for canal construction workers.  Gamboa evolved into a significant dredging division hub by 1936, once housing over 3,800 residents.  Today Gamboa has a quiet, somewhat abandoned feel.  Tourists visit to explore the surrounding lush rainforest of Soberanía National Park.  The park provides a haven for diverse wildlife, including native birds and sloths.

Gatún Lake

This freshwater lake formed in 1913 as a result of the construction of the Gatún Dam on the Chagres River.  The lake covers 164 square kilometers and is 26 meters above sea level.

Gatún Lake holds the vast quantities of water needed for the operation of the lock system.  Each time a ship passes through the locks, millions of gallons of water are released into the ocean.  The Gatún Dam helps maintain the water level in the lake, ensuring a continuous and reliable water supply for the canal’s operation.

As our ship sailed across the calm waters of Gatún Lake, we were surrounded by lush green landscapes and rainforest, an interesting contrast to the industrial activity of the canal.

Gatún Dam, from its reservoir Gatún Lake surrounded by lush green hills under a partly cloudy sky.
Construction of the Gatún Dam on the Chagres River created Gatún Lake that serves as the canal’s reservoir. The dam helps maintain lake water levels, ensuring a continuous supply for the lock system’s operation.
People on a deck watch a small motorboat overtake their ship on a narrow stretch of Gatún Lake, surrounded by lush greenery under a partly cloudy sky.
Gatún Lake covers 164 square kilometers and is 26 meters above sea level. It holds the vast quantities of water needed for operating the canal’s lock system.

We cruised past several islands, including Barro Colorado Island.  This island was protected as a nature reserve in 1923 and boasts 400 bird species and 500 butterfly species.  Managed by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute, the nature reserve is a research center for tropical forest studies.  It is interesting that what we see as islands were hilltops when the valley was flooded by the building of the dam.  It is a unique ecosystem.

At the east end of Gatún Lake, the channel splits into two routes through different lock flights.

Similar to the Pacific side, the larger cargo ships travel through the Agua Clara Locks, a 3-chambered lock flight, built to accommodate Neopanamax vessels.  The visitor center at Aqua Clara has an observation deck where spectators can watch these massive vessels navigate the locks.  Inside there are exhibits and videos of the canal’s history.

Large cargo ship with "EUKOR" painted on the side, sailing through a calm Gatún Lake on the Panama Canal with a forested hill in the background.
Ships carrying cargo of all types cruise across the calm waters of Gatún Lake surrounded by lush green rainforest. The lake contains several islands which were hilltops before the Chagres River valley was flooded.
Andy stands on a cruise ship deck with a large ship and the Atlantic Bridge in the background under a clear blue sky.
Behind me are the Gatún Locks. They are the 3rd and final flight of locks on our transit of the Panama Canal.

Our cruise ship continued toward the Gatún Locks.

Gatún Locks

These are the largest of the original locks in the canal.  In total, the Gatún Locks have six double-lock chambers, each chamber measuring 305 meters long and 34 meters wide.  Their size is impressive considering they were constructed between 1909 and 1913.

The 6 chambers are paired so that 3 chambers lift the ships in one direction, allowing travel through the locks in both directions at the same time.  The locks lower (or raise) ships 26 meters between Gatún Lake and Limon Bay on the Caribbean Sea of the Atlantic Ocean.  There is another observation deck so that people from excursions are able to see the lock operations.

At this lock, we got an up-close look at the electric locomotives known as “mules“. These powerful units don’t actually pull ships through the locks though it may appear that way.  Their purpose is to keep the ships centered in the locks.  Working in pairs, with one on each side of the ship and using strong steel cables, the mules prevent ships from colliding with the lock walls during transit.  This is a crucial safety measure given the tight clearances of just inches on either side of large vessels.

Cargo ship navigating through one of the Gatún Locks in the Panama Canal, with greenery and infrastructure visible on either side.
The massive lock chambers accommodate vessels with just inches of clearance on each side. These original locks from 1913 continue to operate alongside the newer Agua Clara Locks, which serve larger Neopanamax vessels.
An electric locomotive, a mule, guides a ship through a Panama Canal lock, riding along the edge of the lock under a clear sky.
Mules are powerful electric locomotives. Working in pairs with steel cables, the mules prevent ships from colliding with lock walls during transit, providing a crucial safety measure.

Atlantic Entrance

Exiting the Gatún Locks, the Atlantic Bridge stood ahead of us. This majestic, cable-stayed structure stretches 4.6 kilometers across the waterway.  It features two towering concrete pylons that soar 210 meters into the sky.  The bridge deck is 75 meters above the water.

The bridge was completed in 2019 providing an important link between the bustling city of Colón and the communities and operations on the western side of the canal.

Our cruise ship passed beneath the bridge and entered Limon Bay.  We saw at least a dozen massive cargo ships and cruise vessels queuing in the bay, patiently waiting their turn to enter the Gatún Locks.

Cable-stayed Atlantic Bridge over the Panama Canal with green banks, under a cloudy sky.
The 4.6-kilometer-long, cable-stayed Atlantic Bridge spans the Panama Canal connecting Colón and communities on the western side of the canal.

After a transit of about 10 hours, we sailed into the Caribbean Sea.  Our Panama Canal journey was over and we were thankful to have had the opportunity to experience this incredible feat of engineering.  

Tips for Cruise Passengers

To ensure you have an unforgettable Panama Canal transit experience, here are some insider tips.

Attend onboard talks and presentations:  Cruise ships often bring experts onboard to give presentations about the canal’s history, engineering, and ecology.

Wake up early to experience key moments:  The transit takes a full day and some of the most interesting parts happen early in the morning.  On our cruise, we were up early enough to see the colorful BioMuseum as the sun was rising (about 6:40 am).

Find a good viewing spot:  Prime viewing locations get crowded.  If you have a favorite location, stake out your spot early.  Cruise ships often open the bow area, which provides a great viewing area.  We alternated between different decks:  the bow, the promenade deck and the crows nest.  Consider both sun and shade!

Apply sunscreen and stay hydrated:  The sun can be very intense so don’t forget to apply sunscreen.  We alternated between sunny and shady areas while we viewed the lock operations.  Staying hydrated is crucial in the tropical climate.

Adjust your meal times:  Time your breakfast and lunch so you don’t miss key moments. 

Check out the website Just Is A Four Letter Word for even more cruise tips.

People stand on a ship approaching the Gatún Locks in the Panama Canal. The canal gates are open, and a Atlantic Bridge is visible in the background.
The chamber gates are opening to allow our curise ship to enter the final lock of the Gatún flight as we descend to sea level at the Caribbean (Atlantic) entrance.

Full Transit versus Partial Transit

Panama Canal cruises offer two different options:  a full transit or a partial transit of the canal.  We summarize their differences and pros and cons below.

Full Transit

A full transit is navigating the entire Panama Canal, traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans (or vice versa).  It usually takes 8 to 12 hours to complete the entire journey.

Pros:
A Complete Experience:  You experience the entire canal system, including all locks, the Gatún Lake, and the Culebra Cut.

Cons:
Longer Time Commitment:  Full transits often require longer cruise itineraries (often repositioning cruises).

Partial Transit

A typical partial transit involves entering the canal from the Caribbean/Atlantic side, passing through the Gatún Locks, cruising on Gatún Lake, and then returning to the Caribbean Sea through the same locks.

Pros:
Shorter Time Commitment:  Partial transits take less time than full transits, allowing more time at other ports of call.
See the Locks:  You still get to experience the impressive Gatún Locks in operation.
Excursions:  Partial transits often include optional shore excursions to view other parts of the canal. 

Cons:
Incomplete Experience:  You miss seeing the Pacific side’s Miraflores and Pedro Miguel Locks, and the impressive Culebra Cut.

Which is Right for You?

If you have the time and want the full Panama Canal experience, a full transit is the way to go.  This is what we did!  If you’re short on time, a partial transit still offers a fascinating glimpse into this engineering marvel.

Andy stands on a deck of Holland America's Zaandam, looking out at the water of the Panama Canal and distant green landscape under a dark cloudy sky.
I’m enjoying in the last part of our transit of the Panama Canal. Our full transit took about 10 hours. Depending on the speed of the ship and timing of getting through the individual lock flights, a full transit takes 8 to12 hours. It saves vessels thousands of kilometers compared to the alternative route around South America.

A Brief History of the Panama Canal

This is a brief timeline of the Panama Canal’s remarkable history, from its challenging beginnings to today as one of the world’s most crucial maritime passages.

1881:  French efforts to build a canal began under Ferdinand de Lesseps who was fresh from his success building the Suez Canal.  The project was plagued by engineering challenges, as well as deadly outbreaks of malaria and yellow fever, which claimed over 20,000 lives.  This resulted in significant setbacks and delays. 

1889:  The French abandoned the project.

1904:  The United States acquired the project.  They restarted construction, implementing improved engineering and sanitation practices to combat disease.

1914:  The Panama Canal was completed.  The first official transit occurred on August 15, 1914.  The canal opening marked a new era in maritime transportation and a major engineering achievement.  The United States controlled the complete operation of the canal.

1999:  The Panama Canal was fully transferred to Panamanian control on December 31st, marking a significant milestone in Panama’s history and its new role in global commerce.

2016:  The ambitious Panama Canal Expansion Project, adding a third set of locks, was completed, which allowed the larger Neopanamax vessels to transit the canal.  It effectively doubled the canal’s capacity, modernizing the century-old waterway for 21st-century shipping.


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