Montana

Western Montana has lots to offer the road tripper. There are many beautiful towns to explore between Whitefish and West Yellowstone plus Ghost Towns too! Flathead Lake, Missouri Headwaters State Park and Earthquake Lake are perfect places to be active in the great outdoors. Here are 7 towns and 8 things to see to make your western Montana road trip the ultimate!

7-Day Western Montana Road Trip Itinerary

This is a base itinerary for a leisurely road trip through western Montana. Simply enjoy the drive or pack your days full of things to do and places to see.

• Day 1 Drive from Whitefish to Missoula
• Day 2 Helena
• Day 3 Bozeman
• Day 4 Explore around Bozeman
• Day 5 Butte
• Day 6 West Yellowstone
• Day 7 Explore around West Yellowstone

Western Montana Road Trip Map

7 Cool Western Montana Towns

Western Montana has many quaint towns to explore.  Here are seven of the best.

Whitefish

This beautiful small town, on the shores of Whitefish Lake, is popular year-round. The cozy downtown hosts farmers markets, often with food trucks and live music. Explore the array of shops, coffee houses and restaurants. Western Montana’s craft beverages are available at the local brew pubs and distilleries. Opportunities for skiing, snowboarding, hiking, biking and boating are all close by.

Missoula

Beautiful Missoula is the second largest city in Montana.  Explore the downtown which has many restaurants and brewpubs to satisfy any craving.  The Clark Fork River flows beside the vibrant downtown.

You can walk or cycle the Riverfront Trail which lines both sides of the river in the downtown area. A number of parks and city sights are along the route.

Caras Park

There are often events under the pavilion in Caras Park. Prior to 1960 the park was an island separated from downtown by a braid of the river.  It had a pavilion, skating rink, trails and a band shell. The braid was filled in the early 60’s.

Carousel for Missoula

Ride the beautiful antique carousel with its hand-carved and colorful horses. Hundreds of volunteers rebuilt it over 4 years putting in over 100,000 hours of labor.

Old Milwaukee Depot

This beautiful brick passenger depot, built in 1910, is the headquarters of the Boone and Crocket Club. The club is the oldest wildlife conservation organization in North America and was founded in 1887 by Theodore Roosevelt and George Bird Grinnell.

Brennan’s Wave

This is a man-made standing wave for kayakers.  The Clark Fork River is popular with lovers of “white water”.

Missoula has a museum for everyone. At Smokejumper Visitor Center learn about the demanding and important job of smokejumpers who parachute into the backcountry to fight wild fires. You’ll discover the history and culture of western Montana at Fort Missoula. For art lovers, see the spirit of the American West in both traditional and contemporary works at the Montana Museum of Art and Culture and the Missoula Art Museum.

Helena

Last Chance Gulch is Helena’s main street. It is lined with historic buildings dating back to the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries.  Gold was discovered in this gulch in 1864. $19 million worth of gold was mined in just four years, making it the second biggest placer gold deposit in Montana. The town grew rapidly, becoming the capital of the Montana Territory in 1875 and ultimately the state capital. The fire tower, the stunning Cathedral of Saint Helena and the Montana Capitol highlight aspects of Helena’s history.

Fire Tower

Fire was a constant danger to Helena’s wooden buildings in the 19^th century. The fire tower in Fire Tower Park was built in 1874. The first tower was destroyed by fire in 1869, only a year after being built. Today, the hilltop park is a great place to get a bird’s eye view of the city. The twin spires of the Cathedral of Saint Helena are visible to the north.

Cathedral of Saint Helena

The twin spires are 230 feet high and have 12-foot gold-leafed crosses on top. Look for the 29 statues of saints and other biblical figures on the cathedral’s exterior. It was constructed over 18 years, beginning in 1908.  The first mass was held in 1914, even though it was still under construction.  The last of 59 stained-glass windows was installed in 1926.  Go inside to see their true splendor. The cathedral and the State Capitol building are both on the National Register of Historic Places.

• 

• 

State Capitol

The sandstone and granite building, with its copper covered dome, was constructed between 1899 and 1902.  The capitol is the center of a 62-acre campus with state monuments and memorials throughout this beautiful green space.

Livingston

This small town on the Yellowstone River has a charming downtown with many building storefronts as they were in the early 20^th century. The Livingston Depot is the restored 1902 Northern Pacific Railroad station which houses a railroad museum today. Enjoy a picnic in the park beside the depot.

Bozeman

One of the fastest growing cities in the US, Bozeman is the perfect base as you explore the great outdoors.  World-renowned fly fishing areas, hiking, rock climbing and skiing areas are all nearby. Yellowstone National Park is less than 100 miles away. 

We decided to spend our morning hiking Drinking Horse Mountain, northeast of Bozeman. This moderate, 2.4-mile, round trip hike provides beautiful 360-degree views of Bridger Canyon and the Gallatin Valley.

To learn more about the natural, geological and cultural history of the area, visit the Museum of the Rockies. It is part of Montana State University and a Smithsonian affiliate.

Philipsburg

Philipsburg is Montana’s sapphire town.  Pan for these gems at several shops in town.  Buy a bucket of gravel then wash and sort it to find your sapphires.  You can also visit Gem Mountain Sapphire Mine 20 miles south of town.  If “mining” your own gems doesn’t appeal to you, several stores in town sell beautiful sapphires and sapphire jewelry.  Be sure to wander the pretty downtown and check out the local shops.

Granite County Museum provides some history of silver mining in the area.  In the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries the area around Philipsburg had silver, manganese, sapphire, and even gold mines. The towns of Granite, Tower, Rumsey, Black Pine and others housed thousands of hard working miners. Today you see only broken shacks and tailing piles.

West Yellowstone

This small town services the housing and food needs of thousands of Yellowstone National Park visitors each year as it has done since the railroad arrived in 1908.

Learn about West Yellowstone and the national park at these 3 attractions.

Museum of the Yellowstone

The museum highlights the history of the town and travel to the park. It is in the restored Union Pacific Railroad Depot and part of the Oregon Short Line Terminus Historic District.

Yellowstone Giant Screen Theater

This IMAX theatre offers new film releases, in both IMAX and regular format. See the 1994 IMAX documentary “Yellowstone” which shows Yellowstone National Park today and as it was a hundred and 100,000 years ago.

Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center

This not-for-profit wildlife park and educational facility provides sanctuary to grizzly bears and gray wolves which are unable to survive in the wild.

8 Things to See in Western Montana

As well as the great towns, here are more fantastic things to see on your western Montana road trip.

Flathead Lake

This is a must-see for water enthusiasts. The lake is 27 miles long, 15 miles wide and 300 feet deep.  It is the largest natural freshwater lake in the western US. There are many boat launches making it perfect for fishing, kayaking, boating or sailing.  Swimmable beaches line much of the lake’s shoreline. There are a number of islands to explore. Wild Horse Island is a day-use state park, home to wild horses, bighorn sheep, coyotes, deer and a variety of birds.

Miracle of America Museum

This is a great place to learn about the culture of the US through its collection of  340,000 artifacts. You can find almost anything here, from full-size planes to a 1912 school house and even bumper sticker collections. There are all types of vehicles and you can climb into most of them. It is the perfect place for the kids to burn off some of that pent-up road trip energy.

National Bison Range

This 18,800-acre wildlife refuge is the main bison research center in the US. It is home to many species of animals and over 200 species of birds. You could see black bears, elk and deer as well as bison.  Check in at the visitor center to learn about the history of the area, both natural and cultural.  Staff will let you know where wildlife has been seen so that you can watch for them as you tour the refuge.

The best way to tour is to drive the range’s well-graded and maintained gravel roads.  Try all of these routes or whichever you have time for.

• West loop – 1-mile loop, close to the visitor center.
• Prairie Drive – 14-mile round trip, with two-way traffic, along the flats of Mission Creek.
• Red Sleep Mountain Drive – 10-mile one-way loop which gains 2,000 feet in altitude with many switchbacks and 10% grades along the way.  Allow 1.5 to 2 hours.

The range was established in 1908 to help with efforts to save the bison which had been hunted to near extinction in the 19^th century. There had been 10’s of millions of bison in North America up to that time. Today the herd on the range is maintained at between 350 and 500 animals ensuring that the habitat can properly support them.  Surplus animals are donated or sold to parks and other wildlife refuges. The National Bison Range is one of the last intact, publicly-owned, intermountain native grasslands in the US and a diverse mixture of grassland, douglas fir and ponderosa pine forest.

Montana Ghost Towns

In the late 1800s and early 1900s, thousands of miners, often with their wives and children, came to western Montana to work its many mines.  Towns sprang up and boomed in these mining areas.  When the mines closed, miners moved on to the next opportunity, often leaving the towns abandoned. 

Today, the conditions of these deserted towns vary. Some towns are completely reclaimed by nature, with nothing remaining but broken shacks and building skeletons.  However other towns have been preserved through the stewardship of concerned Montana citizens.  Due to their generosity, we can explore some of these frontier towns and see what life was like in the early 1900’s.

Click here to learn more about our visit to the western Montana Ghost Towns of Coloma, Garnet, Elkhorn, Granite, Coolidge, Bannack and Virginia City/Nevada City.

Old Montana Prison Complex

This complex was built by convict labor. It operated from 1861 to 1979. The walls are 24 feet high and are buried 4 feet deep. Prisoners couldn’t tunnel out. You can see the cells, the shower chambers, guard towers and more.

Today the complex houses five museums: Old Montana Prison, Powell County Museum, Frontier Montana Museum, Yesterday’s Playthings and the Montana Auto Museum. Admission covers all museums. The auto museum is ranked one of the 10 best in the country. It’s a great place to learn about early frontier life in western Montana.

Missouri Headwaters State Park

In this 532-acre state park the Jefferson, Madison and Gallatin Rivers merge becoming the Missouri River, the longest river in the US. Enjoy fishing or boating on the beautiful clear waters. Many species of birds and animals come to this easily available, clean water source.  There are hiking trails throughout the state park.

Interpretive displays discuss the presence of Native American tribes in these areas for over a thousand years.  The site was also significant as a stopping point for the Lewis & Clark Expedition.  After exploring the 2,300 miles of the Missouri River, the expedition stopped here for 3 days in late 1805.

Today, the Missouri headwaters continue to offer a great place to explore nature and replenish the body and the soul.

Lewis & Clark Caverns State Park

Montana’s first state park has one of the largest known caverns in the northwest US. Guided tours allow you to visit these caverns. There are trails to hike or bike, interpretive displays and a gift shop. Immerse yourself in the beautiful western Montana countryside by staying in the large campground.

Earthquake Lake

Earthquake Lake Visitor Center tells the geologic story of the Hebgen Lake Earthquake. It presents the facts behind the 7.5 magnitude quake and the changes triggered by the 35 seconds of intense shaking at midnight on August 17, 1959. Over 250 people were trapped in Madison Canyon. Some injured and needing medical attention and all needing to be rescued. When calm returned, 28 people had been killed. Their names are inscribed on a plaque at Memorial Boulder on the trail above the visitor center.

Looking southeast you’ll see the canyon wall where rock, dirt and trees once were. The massive landslide was a 225-foot-thick mountain of shattered rock, boulders and splintered trees. Earthquake Lake formed behind this natural dam on the Madison River. The lake is 5 miles long, one-third of a mile wide, and 190 feet deep. Many people fish the lake, both from boats and the shore, but watch your lines on the underwater debris.

Head east on Highway 287 and stop at some of the interpretive spots along the way. You’ll learn what happened in some of these spots during the hours shortly after the quake and the human stories of fear, survival, loss and heroism.

Western Montana Attractions and Map

Interested in more Itineraries? Sign up here.

(No spam. Just great travel tips.)

Leave this field empty if you're human:

Enjoy a beautiful drive through mountain scenery as you visit the ghost towns that played central roles in Montana’s late 19^th and early 20^th century mining history. Learn about the first gold rush in 1862 and town of Bannack.  More boom towns followed, including Coolidge, settled in 1913.  Neither plentiful ore nor superior mining technology could guarantee the survival of many of these early mining towns.

This road trip will introduce you to Montana ghost towns and frontier life.  See the best preserved towns of Bannack and Garnet and the almost vanished town of Coloma.  End your tour at the re-born, commercial, towns of Nevada City and Virginia City.

No matter what type of ghost town experience you are looking for, you’ll find it in these Old West towns in Montana!

Montana Ghost Towns Itinerary

• Bannack Ghost Town/State Park (2-3 hours)
• Coolidge Ghost Town (2 hours)
• Granite Ghost Town/State Park (1 hour)
• Garnet Ghost Town (2 hours)
• Coloma Ghost Town (1/2 hour)
• Elkhorn Ghost Town/State Park (1/2 hour)
• Nevada City and Virginia City (2 hours)

You can explore these 7 ghost towns easily in 3 days.

Montana Ghost Towns Map

You can also download our interactive Ghost Towns Map below.

Bannack Ghost Town

The streets of Bannack today are much different than when Bannack first sprang up.

The first major gold discovery, in the new territory of Montana, occurred here in the summer of 1862.  The town quickly grew from a tent city of 400 to a thriving gold town of over 3,000, by spring 1863.

Today Bannack has over 50 buildings lining its main street.  Most are log and frame construction, which was typical in the primitive towns that were built around the frontier gold discoveries.  Bannack served temporarily as first capital of the new Montana Territory.

Unfortunately, the town’s story is typical of mining boom towns.  When the mining slows, so does the town. The last mining in the area was in the late 1930’s.

As the town’s population decreased, concerned local residents worked to preserve Bannack. The Beaverhead County Museum Association began purchasing Bannack’s vacant buildings. In 1954 the county donated all of the acquired buildings to the state, with the stipulation that they be preserved as a ghost town.  In 1961, Bannack was designated a National Historic Landmark.  Shortly thereafter, Bannack State Park was established.  Bannack is considered one of Montana’s best preserved ghost towns.

Check out our post Bannack – Gold Town to Ghost Town for even more photos of Bannack and details of the history of the town and the gold mining around Grasshopper Creek.

Coolidge Ghost Town

Today Coolidge is a collection of building ruins on the east side of Elkhorn Creek. These buildings plus the Elkhorn Mine and the ruins of a huge silver processing mill make up the Elkhorn/Coolidge Historic District.  To visit the district you must park in a central parking area and walk about a mile south along the creek to Coolidge. A bridge across the creek allows access to the mill ruins. While the mine is not accessible, you can see one of the entrances to it by walking further south of the mill.

Development of Elkhorn Mine and Mill

Silver ore was discovered in the area in 1873.  Over the next 30 years, a number of small mining operations were established. In the early 1900s, William R. Allen, local entrepreneur and politician, created the Boston-Montana Development Corporation. He began buying up local mining claims with the intention of developing a silver mine and mill. With the business contacts he made while in politics, he attracted investors both inside and outside of the US. Large scale investment was needed, since in addition to building the mill, a rail line was needed to get the partially refined ore out of the mountain valley.

A rail line from Divide to the mine was laid through the valleys of the Big Hole and Wise Rivers, then along the Elkhorn Creek and ended in Coolidge. It was about 38 miles long and was constructed between 1917 and 1919. It carried predominantly freight and passengers to and from Coolidge.

Unfortunately, in the early 1920’s, just as the mine and mill operations were ready to go into production, silver prices plummeted.  At the same time, tests of the first ore pulled from the mine determined that its silver content was too low.  The ore was not worth processing in the mill designed solely for the refinement of silver. Further mining was necessary to reach the higher grade ore.

Even though there was large scale investment in the most modern equipment and techniques, and a known ore deposit existed, the drop in silver price was too much for Boston-Montana to withstand. The company was forced into receivership in 1923.  Allen lost his personal fortune and control of the company. A reorganized Boston-Montana Corporation was able to mine higher grade ore, refine it, and send it for processing. The mine never produced silver in the volumes it needed to survive.

When the mine floundered, so did the railroad, ending up in receivership twice.  A flood in 1927 destroyed a large portion of track and the railroad never recovered.  It operated for a short while in the early 1930’s. The railroad track was removed completely in 1940.

Coolidge

The town’s first residents arrived in 1913. As work progressed on the mine, mill and railroad, families began arriving. The population rose enough for a school district to be organized in 1918. By 1922 the town had telephone, electrical and postal services.

With the mine never reaching its full potential, people began to move on to other places for more secure work. The town gradually faded away with the school closing in 1927 and the postal service discontinued in 1932. The population peaked at 350 people, but by 1933 the town was abandoned.

Be sure to check out Tyro House, the home of Frank Tyro who served as Coolidge’s postmaster for the ten years the post office was in operation (1922-1932).

Granite Ghost Town

Granite State Park consists of the ruins of the Mine Superintendent’s house and the Miners’ Union Hall. The 5-mile road from Philipsburg to Granite climbs about 1,280 feet and is narrow, steep and winding. It can be rough for cars so take it slow and don’t attempt the drive if the road is wet and muddy.

Silver was first found in the area in 1865.  In 1875 a massive body of silver laden rock was discovered and the mine and town of Granite were born. The mine produced about $300,000 worth of silver per year at its peak which today is worth about $10 million.

The town was the largest silver mining camp in Montana with a population of about 3,000 people by the early 1890’s. The town was very “civilized”. It had a library, a hospital, a school and several churches along with the usual mining camp staples of saloons and brothels. The Miners’ Union Hall, which you can see today, was built in 1890. It hosted many of the town’s dances, plays, and large meetings.

The Sherman Silver Purchase Act of 1890 required the US government purchase millions of ounces of silver each year. It was repealed in 1893.  This caused the demand for silver to drop and silver prices to decrease by almost 25% by year’s end. The mine was closed and most of the residents left. A year later there were only about 140 people left in Granite.

While the falling price of silver spelled the demise of Granite, it helped lead to the rise of Garnet.

Garnet Ghost Town

Garnet is one of the Montana’s best preserved and least visited ghost towns. It offers an excellent, non-commercial experience. There is a small visitor center, self-guided trails and interpretive signs throughout the town, explaining the history of the buildings. Several of these buildings are open to view.  They have items on display, typical of those used in the building’s past.

While placer gold was discovered in Bear Creek in 1865, the lack of road access to the gold areas and little water outside spring runoff meant few miners attempted to work the deposits. Falling silver prices in 1893 brought miners and investment from other areas to the Garnet range to mine the rich veins of quartz and gold ore. Hard rock mining here required investment in shafts, stamp mills and a road.

The road was built in 1895 linking the new town of Garnet to Bearmouth, on the new Northern Pacific Railroad, about 10 miles away. Rail was the best way to move the partially processed ore to larger centers for refining. A stamp mill was built shortly after completion of the road.  The timing was perfect. In 1896, a rich vein of gold was found at the Nancy Hanks Mine, just west of town.

Skilled hard rock miners brought their families with them when they came to Garnet, making it more of a family town than earlier mining towns. Dances, hay rides and picnics were held providing more family-oriented entertainment. In January 1898 the population of Garnet was about 1,000. There were 4 stores, 4 hotels, 3 livery stables, 2 barbershops, union hall, school, butcher shop, candy shop, doctor’s office, assay office and 13 saloons.

The gold became harder to find after the seams were worked extensively in the 1890’s. By 1905 only about 150 people remained in Garnet. In 1912, a fire destroyed much of the commercial district as there was little water in town for fire fighting. Only Adams Store, Kelly’s Saloon, Davey’s Store and Wells Hotel were saved. When the US entered WWI in 1917, most of the miners and their families left Garnet and headed for defense-related jobs. By 1920 Garnet was a ghost town.

The town’s remote location helped protect the buildings and even furniture which had often been left behind. These abandoned buildings welcomed miners again in 1934 as gold prices doubled and lured about 250 people back to the area. World War II drew people away from Garnet again. A moratorium on the use of dynamite, except to support the war effort, brought the end to mining at Garnet. The post office closed in 1942.

In 1972 a descendent of one of the original miners donated the Anderson mining claim to the Garnet Preservation Association and Bureau of Land Management (BLM). The claim contained many of the commercial buildings, old town jail, school and numerous cabins.  BLM stabilized many of the town’s buildings and oversees its preservation today.

After leaving Garnet on your way to Coloma, watch for a building on the left. The remains of a second cabin are set back in the trees.

Stage Coach Rest Stop

The intact cabin is an emergency shelter for snowmobilers and cross country skiers using winter trails. It was built in the 1940’s for a fire warden hired by locals to watch for wildfires.

The cabin behind it is all that remains of an 1890’s stage coach rest stop. The 15-mile trip between Coloma and Bearmouth, a journey of about 40 minutes today, took most of a day in the late 19^th century. Travelers welcomed a break from the bumpy road.

Coloma Ghost Town

All that remains of the town of Coloma today are a few partial cabins.

Coloma was settled as early as 1865 with the first wave of gold fever in the Garnets but grew rapidly after lode deposits were discovered in 1897. The town reached its peak at the turn of the century.

Two stamping mills were constructed in the area so that ore could be crushed locally and then hauled to Helena, Butte or Anaconda for treatment.

Mammoth Mine was the largest at Coloma, yielding about $200,000 of gold over the next 20 years.  Mining in the area continued into the 1950’s, but the town of Coloma was essentially abandoned by 1918.

Sand Park Cemetery

This simple cemetery is the final resting place for the Coloma miners who did not have family elsewhere, or the money to be buried in larger towns. The grave markers provide about all of the information that is known now about these people buried between 1898 and 1914. Enjoy the quiet of this peaceful place.

Elkhorn Ghost Town

The town of Elkhorn has two picturesque buildings from its mining era: Fraternity Hall and Gillian Hall.  These 1890s building have been preserved and are a part of Elkhorn State Park, Montana’s smallest state park.  They are open to the public. The rest of the buildings are private residences.

While silver was first discovered in the Elkhorn Mountains as far back as 1868, it was not until 1875 that ore was discovered at what became the Elkhorn Mine.  By 1888, the mine was producing significant amounts and the local economy thrived.  It had produced 8,902,000 ounces of silver and 8,500 ounces of gold and more than 4 million pounds of lead by 1900.

The volatile price of silver led to the mine being worked sporadically over the next 30 years. Elkhorn Mine closed for good in 1912. Its tailings were reworked several times in the next 3 decades. By 1951 all activity ended.

As the silver mine developed, the town of Elkhorn grew. It thrived in the 1880s with its population reaching 2,500 people. A post office opened in 1884 and the railroad arrived in 1886.  But as the mine’s production declined, so did the town. By 1900, there were less than 1,000 residents but the town still had a fraternity hall, a post office, a church, a school and over a dozen saloons. The post office closed in 1924 and the Northern Pacific Railroad removed its tracks in 1931. The town was abandoned in the 1970s, except for a handful of residents.

Nevada City and Virginia City

Nevada City and Virginia City, while no longer ghost towns, are famous tourist attractions.  They are the perfect places to experience what Montana’s gold rush days were like.

Ride the train between the towns, pan for gold, attend a live theater show, shop in unique gift and specialty shops and enjoy fine dining. There are plenty of accommodations including homey historic lodging options. 

In Nevada City, visit the Old Town Living History Museum & Music Hall.  It has one of the largest collections of old west items, not in a Smithsonian museum. There are over 100 buildings built between 1863 and 1900. This is a great place to experience the culture and times of early Montana.  Weekends in the summer come alive here with re-enactors who bring the gold rush era to life. Walk among them and experience the 1860s.

In 1863 the richest placer gold deposit in the Rocky Mountain’s was discovered in Alder Gulch and created Montana’s biggest gold rush. By 1864 the area was home to 30,000 people trying to strike it rich. The total value of the gold recovered is estimated at over $100 million.

Virginia City was the 2^nd territorial capital between 1865 and 1875. Like the other gold mining towns, as the gold became more difficult to find, the people dispersed to other places. They left behind commercial buildings, simple log cabins and larger Victorian styled residences. Charlie and Sue Bovey were among the first to acknowledge the significance of preserving Virginia City. In the 1940s, they purchased and stabilized some of the structures. Their family’s efforts helped ensure that the town was designated a National Historic Landmark.

Ghost Towns Interactive Map

While we have presented this loop route starting from Bannack State Park, you can start anywhere.  Here is an interactive map to help you navigate.

Interested in more Itineraries? Sign up here.

(No spam. Just great travel tips.)

Leave this field empty if you're human:

Visit Bannack and go back to the days of mining on the frontier.  Enter the many well-preserved buildings lining the main street of this ghost town, now state park. Learn about the boom-to-bust cycles of the former gold mining town and about the hanging of the town sheriff by vigilantes in 1864.

Bannack Ghost Town (State Park)

Today Bannack is very different than when it began over 150 years ago.  In 1862 it was just a camp of tents along Grasshopper Creek.  Now there are over 50 very well-preserved buildings along the main street. In 1862 you were one of 400 or so miners staking your claim in the newly discovered placer gold find. Today, you are one of a handful of visitors walking the rustic wooden sidewalks in this old western town.

Start at the visitor center to get oriented. Here you’ll learn about early Bannack and its role in the first major gold discovery two years before Montana became a US territory.

You are free to wander the town at your leisure. You can enter most of the buildings. Many have examples of items which were used in the building or in the era it was built.  Here are some that were highlights for us.

Bannack Must-Sees

If you are short of time, be sure to make these stops a priority.

City Drug Store

This building was primarily a drug store but also saw time as a general store and an assay office. It was even used as the school when the regular school was under repair.

County Courthouse/Hotel Meade

This gorgeous 2-story red brick building was built in 1875 as the Beaverhead County Courthouse, the first brick courthouse in Montana. It closed in 1881 when the county seat moved to Dillon. 

The building sat empty for 10 years until it was purchased by Dr. John Meade. He added a large kitchen, dining room and living quarters to the already large building, converting it into the fancy Hotel Meade. It became the center of Bannack society and a home for many travelers. The hotel closed and re-opened several times as the prosperity of Bannack changed, closing permanently in the 1940’s.

Skinner Saloon

Cyrus Skinner opened his saloon here in spring 1863. He was friends with the town’s sheriff, Henry Plummer from their time together in San Quentin Penitentiary. While Plummer may have been sheriff, he was also reputed to be the leader of an outlaw gang, the “Innocents”. The saloon was a popular place for them to gather.

Vigilante justice often “solved” criminal issues in early mining camps. The Innocents were accused of robbing and murdering many miners in the last half of 1863. Though there was little evidence tying Plummer to the Innocents, vigilantes decided they would hang Plummer and the rest of the gang.

On January 10, 1864, Plummer and two others were hanged on the gallows just outside of town. By the end of January the vigilantes had executed over 20 of the gang and had run the rest out of the territory.

It was alleged that Skinner was a spy for the gang. He abandoned his saloon and ran but was tracked down and executed. The building was converted to a general merchandise store.

Bannack Methodist Church

When the circuit riders came to town they used whatever building was available for their church services. They might even use a saloon. One of these traveling ministers convinced his congregation that they needed a building which was solely used for worship. In 1877, the Bannack Methodist Church was built and is the only church ever built in Bannack.

Bannack Jails

The building on the right with the tiny window is the first jail built in the Montana Territory. It was built in 1863. Prisoners were chained to the metal rings in the floor. If the prisoners looked through its front window, they saw the gallows in the valley, a reminder of their potential fate.

Masonic Lodge and School House

Schooling in Bannack’s early days was paid for by the children’s families much like private school today. The first classes were held in a home but as the town grew, a basic log building was made available to serve as a school.  The number of children continued to grow and, by 1874, the need for a public school became apparent.

Bannack’s Masonic Lodge came to the rescue. They constructed a building which provided the lodge a proper meeting space on the second floor and a K-8^th grade public school on the main floor.  This school operated here for 70 years closing in the 1940’s.

For a stunning view of Bannack and the valley, walk up the hill to the cemetery.

On your way, you’ll pass Bachelors Row behind the church.

Bachelors Row

The first miners who arrived after the discovery of gold were men traveling without their families.  They slept in bedrolls under the stars, or in small tents, or even in wagons close to their claims. They spent all their time on their mining efforts. This worked fine in the summer and the early fall. The harsh winter was coming and to withstand it more suitable housing needed to be found. The dense row of small one-room cabins on the north of the main street was the solution. Each had a corner fireplace, a couple bunks, several shelves and a table with stools.

Cemetery

High on the hill is the fenced cemetery which was used between 1862 and 1880. Everyone was buried in this cemetery, regardless of vocation or wealth.  Now, most of the grave markers are gone. The more sturdy markers are still readable.  You’ll note that death claimed both the young and the old.

This is a quiet place to look out over the valley and imagine what it looked like when gold fever struck here in 1862.

Bannack’s History – Boom to Bust

Bannack began as a small mining camp for the miners working the first gold discovery in the area.

Gold Rush at Grasshopper Creek 1862

In July 1862, John White and a group of prospectors discovered placer gold along the banks of Grasshopper Creek. Their camp was several miles downstream. As this placer gold was quite plentiful, White filed a claim to protect his discovery. Unfortunately for him, that put the word out. The first gold rush, in the soon to be territory of Montana, was on!

Bannack Incorporation 1863

The mining camp that would become Bannack held 400 people in fall 1862.  By spring 1863 it had grown to 3,000 people. The town was incorporated in the fall and was appointed the territorial capital when US Congress created the Montana Territory on May 26, 1864.

Residents and pastimes of Bannack

Most residents prospected for gold. Others realized there was money to be made providing supplies and services to the miners and their families. Residents included miners, storekeepers, freighters, saloon owners, blacksmiths and their families.

Bannack had the usual places for miners to be entertained and spend their hard earned gold. There were saloons, gambling halls and brothels. “Hurdy Gurdy” Girls, who danced with men to entertain them, were paid by the dance. The girls were not considered “respectable” though most of them were not prostitutes.

There were dancing parties two or three times a week. These were considered acceptable and agreeable entertainment for married and single “Ladies”. Picnics, horseback rides and fishing provided residents with some fun in the summer. In the winter there was ice skating and sledding.

Bannack and Gold Mines persevere 1864-1902

The easy to reach placer deposits along Grasshopper Creek were quickly gathered by the huge influx of miners in the first months. By summer 1864 many of the first miners were lured away by other gold strikes. One of those strikes was near Virginia City. The territorial capital moved to Virginia City in February 1865.

In addition to the placer deposits that were discovered by White, Montana’s first quartz mining claims were made here in 1862. Stamp mills to crush the mined ore soon operated alongside the placer mining. Gold was mined from both hard rock and placer deposits.   As technologies changed in both methods of mining, Bannack went through boom and bust periods.

Beaverhead County Seat 1870’s

The town survived through the 1870s as the county seat until it moved to Dillon in 1881.  Many of our must-see buildings were built in this time period.

Mining Higher Placer Deposits 1880’s

When the easy Grasshopper Creek placer deposits were depleted, ditches were dug to bring water to the deposits higher up the valley sides. The water, under high pressure, washed away the dirt over the beds into sluice boxes to recover the gold. This mining method continued into the 1890’s when the placer miners focus shifted to the gravels of Grasshopper Creek.

Dredging Gold of Grasshopper Creek 1895 – 1902

The first successful electric gold dredge in the United States was built here in 1895. The dredge boat was a large platform onto which the creek’s gravel was dropped after being pulled from the creek by massive buckets. The gravel was sluiced on the boat separating the gold from the rest of the stone which was returned to the creek. This was such an efficient method of mining that 4 more dredges were constructed over the next 7 years.  By 1902 the gold in the gravel of the creek had been mined out. This was the last major gold mining activity in Bannack.

Bannack’s slow decline 1902-1954

As the value of gold and its accessibility decreased, mining was no longer economically viable and Bannack slowly died. In the 1930’s the mines didn’t operate regularly and they were closed down completely by World War II. The post office closed in 1938 and the school closed in the early 1950’s.

Pure Gold of Grasshopper Creek

The gold mined from the placer deposits here was incredibly pure. Gold is typically found with silver and usually the gold nuggets are between 80% and 95% gold. Grasshopper Creek’s nuggets typically had a gold content of 99.5%, similar to refined gold. Shops accepted this pure gold directly as currency.

It is estimated that the mining district around the town produced gold valued at about $12 million between 1862 and 1930 when the average gold price was about $20 per ounce. This is one of Montana’s most productive historic gold mining areas. Records note that the placer deposits alone, between 1862 and 1876, were estimated to have produced about $3 million of very pure gold.

Preservation of Bannack 1954 to now

As early as 1947 concerned Montana residents began preservation efforts as Bannack emptied. Beaverhead County Museum Association began purchasing buildings and property in the 1950s. The association owned 17 properties and donated them to the state in 1954. A stipulation of this sale was that Bannack not be made into a “tourist town” but be preserved as the “ghost” of a town.

Bannack became a National Historic Landmark in 1961 helping to ensure this legacy would endure. Bannack State Park was established in the 1960’s. The state purchased the remaining buildings over the next 3 decades.

The guidebook for the park notes “Bannack is ‘preserved rather than restored, protected rather than exploited’. We attempt to retain an atmosphere of the past with a sense of remote isolation and abandonment“. They have succeeded.

To experience a bit more of what it was like when Bannack was a thriving town, visit during Bannack Days.

Bannack Days

This 2-day annual event, held on the 3^rd weekend each July, celebrates frontier life. You can learn how to pan for gold. There are demonstrations of old-time dancing and pioneer crafts such as candle making. Enjoy wagon rides, music and fun for the whole family. There may even be a gunfight on Main Street.

Know before you Go – Bannack State Park

Interested in more Itineraries? Sign up here.

(No spam. Just great travel tips.)

Leave this field empty if you're human:

Glacier National Park is one of the best places to experience pristine wilderness in the beautiful Rocky Mountains. There are alpine meadows, streams of cold mountain water running into clean, clear lakes, virgin forests and rugged mountains, all teeming with wildlife.

There are hikes available for all ability levels so anyone can get out and see this incredible place up close. Driving along the engineering marvel, Going-to-the-Sun Road, is a great way to easily access hiking trails and experience the splendor of Glacier National Park.

Take a week and experience this amazing place.

Glacier Trip Itinerary

• Days 1 to 3 Going-to-the-Sun Road
• Day 4 Two Medicine Lake and East Glacier
• Day 5 Many Glacier
• Days 6 and 7 Waterton Lakes National Park, Glacier’s Canadian partner in Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park

Glacier Road Trip Map

We’ve highlighted 11 fantastic hikes below. They are perfect for relatively active people. Happy Hiking!

Going-to-the-Sun Road

This scenic road is the main attraction of Glacier National Park.  The road has many spots where you can pull over to see park highlights along the way. Many of these pull-offs are also trailheads for some spectacular hiking options. This 2-lane, 50 mile long road connects West Glacier and St. Mary.  The engineering masterpiece, which took just over 10 years (1921 to 1932) to complete, is the only road across the park.  Be sure to stop at Jackson Glacier Overlook. You’ll see not only Jackson Glacier but Going-to-the-Sun Mountain, the road’s namesake. This stop is the best place to see a glacier from the road and learn about the glacier’s disappearance from the park.

Consider the “hop-on/hop-off” shuttle to avoid the frustration of finding parking.  The shuttle stops at most of the trailheads on the road.

The following 8 hikes and other must-see stops (from west to east) showcase the highlights of the impressive Going-to-the-Sun Road.

John’s Lake Loop

This easy 2-mile loop trail is a great way to see Sacred Dancing Cascade and McDonald Falls along McDonald Creek before it empties into Lake McDonald. The trailhead is 1.3 miles north of Lake McDonald Lodge.

Lake McDonald

This is one of the most scenic lakes in the park. It measures 10 miles long and is 464 feet deep. Enjoy a guided cruise on the lake or rent a canoe or kayak to paddle it at your leisure. On the lake’s northeastern shore is the rustic 3.5–storey lodge which was built in 1913. It is a National Historic Landmark.

Trail of the Cedars

This is a fully accessible boardwalk trail loop of 0.9 miles through old growth red cedar and hemlock forest. It is a beautiful shady forest path with Avalanche Creek running through the center of it. The trail is busy but you’ll be glad you took the time to explore it. The trailhead is located close to Avalanche Campground’s entrance.

Avalanche Lake Trail

This 4.6 mile round-trip hike along the creek to Avalanche Lake is excellent. At the opposite end of the lake, you’ll see several waterfalls plunging down the cliffs.  Many of these waterfalls are meltwater from the Sperry Glacier, which cannot be seen from the lake. The hike has some steep sections but overall it is not technically challenging. The trailhead is just south of where the Trail of the Cedars crosses the creek.

Hidden Lake Trail

Starting from behind the Logan Pass Visitor Center, you’ll hike through an alpine meadow, see jagged mountain peaks, waterfalls and, upon reaching the overlook, Hidden Lake. There are sections of dirt trail and boardwalk with steps. This trail is not meant for wheelchairs (or strollers though we saw people attempting this). The trail is not technically challenging. The view is definitely worth it. It is a very busy trail, one of the most popular in the park. The hike to the overlook and back is about 2.6 miles.

If you want more, continue from the overlook down to the edge of Hidden Lake. You’ll navigate some steep switchbacks to descend about 750 feet. Just remember you have to come all the way back up. The total round-trip hike from the parking lot to Hidden Lake is about 5.0 miles.

Logan Pass

Logan Pass runs along the Continental Divide, the roughly north/south line separating the watersheds that drain into the Pacific Ocean from those that drain into the Atlantic Ocean.

The highest point on Going-to-the-Sun Road is where it crosses Logan Pass at 6,646 feet above sea level. The Visitor Center here explains the flora and fauna of the alpine meadow area around it. This alpine meadow is filled with wildflowers and is an excellent place to see wildlife such as mountain goats, bighorn sheep and marmots.

The parking lot here is always busy so arrive early.

Highline Trail

The trail is along the continental divide through stunning scenery. Highline is very popular with some very narrow and challenging parts but the views are exceptional. People often park at the pullout called the Loop to the west of Logan Pass. From the Loop, hikers take the park shuttle to the Pass and then walk the 11.8 miles back to their car. This ensures they are walking mostly downhill with only a couple of gradual uphill sections. This route combines 7.6 miles of the Highline Trail with 4.2 miles from the Granite Park Chalet, a back country hostel, to the Loop parking area.

Sunrift Gorge Hikes

From the Sunrift Gorge parking area you have a couple options.  On the north side of the road, hike in just 200 feet to see the water-carved Sunrift Gorge. A short 0.6 mile round-trip walk on the south side brings you through the woods to Baring Falls, a hidden waterfall. We visited in the fall and the colours of the valley were quite lovely.

Sun Point Nature Trail

This short, easy trail runs along Saint Mary Lake for about 1.1 miles between Sun Point and Sunrift Gorge shuttle stops. The trail provides some outstanding views of the beautiful lake.

Saint Mary Lake and Wild Goose Island

Saint Mary Lake is the second largest lake in the park at 9.9 miles long and 300 feet deep. Wild Goose Island is in the middle of the lake and is one of the most photographed spots in Glacier National Park.

Two Medicine

This area on the east side of the park, south of St. Mary, has its own ranger station, campground and store. It is less visited than the areas around Going-to-the-Sun Road. There are 2 lakes here with Two Medicine Creek running between them and over Running Eagle Falls.

Running Eagle Falls Trail

A pretty 0.6 mile round-trip hike brings you to where Two Medicine Creek creates a waterfall which looks very different from spring to fall.  In the spring, when water flow is larger, there are actually 2 waterfalls here. One flows over the upper cliff and a second flows from a hole in the cliff wall.  By the end of summer, the upper waterfall is dry making it appear that the water is falling from solid rock. This area also has a wheelchair accessible loop.

East Glacier Park

The town is just outside the park, south of Two Medicine and is worth visiting.  Many park visitors arrived here by train in the early part of the 20^th Century. The railroad station is directly across from Glacier Park Lodge which was built by the railroad between 1913 and 1915. The lodge and the rail station continue to serve park visitors today.

Drive 45 minutes north of East Glacier Park to discover Many Glacier, another less-visited area of the park which is worth the trip.

Many Glacier

The view of the mountains from the back of the Many Glacier Hotel on Swiftcurrent Lake is spectacular. Dominating the view is Grinnell Point with Mount Gould to the left and Swiftcurrent Mountain to the right. In between Grinnell Point and Mt. Gould is the cirque where Grinnell Glacier lies.

Swiftcurrent Lake Trail

You can start this easy 2.6 mile loop trail around Swiftcurrent Lake at either the Many Glacier Hotel or the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead. The views from the hotel looking west are simply staggering, so be sure to take your time and enjoy the beauty surrounding you.

Hike to Grinnel Glacier

This hike is very strenuous but very popular. From the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead, at Many Glacier campground, it is 10.6 miles round trip with a net elevation gain of about 1800 feet. However a popular alternate is to take the shuttle boat from the Many Glacier Hotel’s dock across Swiftcurrent Lake. Walk the short path from the dock southwest to Lake Josephine and take a second shuttle boat across this lake.  You will save about 3.6 miles of hiking. There is a cost for the shuttle boat rides. In general, the hike to the glacier is uphill and return trip downhill.

Waterton Lakes National Park, Canada

Glacier’s northern neighbor is Waterton Lakes National Park in Alberta Canada. In 1932 advocates of the 2 parks worked together to create Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. The Peace Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and in 2017 became an International Dark Sky Park. Like Glacier, Waterton offers outstanding Rocky Mountain scenery and great biodiversity.

Check out our itinerary here for the Best Things to do in Waterton.

Glacier Hiking Summary

Trail	Round-trip hike	Difficulty
John’s Lake Loop	2 mile loop	Easy
Trail of the Cedars	0.9 mile loop	Easy
Avalanche Lake Trail	4.6 mile linear	Easy to moderate
Hidden Lake Trail to Overlook	2.6 mile linear	Easy to moderate
Hidden Lake Trail to Lake	5 mile linear	Moderate
Highline Trail (Logan Pass to the Loop pullout)	11.8 miles one way	Hard
Sunrift Gorge	less than 0.1 mile linear	Easy
Baring Falls	0.6 mile linear	Easy
Sun Point Nature Trail (between Sun Point and Sunrift Gorge shuttle stops)	1.1 miles one way	Easy to moderate
Running Eagle Falls Trail	0.6 mile linear	Easy
Swiftcurrent Nature Trail	2.6 mile loop	Easy
Grinnell Glacier Trail from Grinnell Glacier Trailhead	10.6 mile linear	Hard
Grinnell Glacier Trail from west end of Lake Josephine	7 mile linear	Hard

Know before you go

Map of Glacier National Park

Accommodations near Glacier National Park

There are a number of “in-park” options available; hotel, motel, cabins and campgrounds but reserve early as they fill quickly.

Looking for an accommodation near Glacier National Park?

Whitefish Hotels

Make Whitefish your home base while you explore Glacier National Park. Check out these great options.

• Duck Inn Lodge – Whitefish – Where We Stayed
• The Garrison Inn – Kalispell – Highly rated
• Here are other great hotels in Whitefish
• Here are other hotels in Glacier National Park Region

Interested in more Itineraries? Sign up here.

(No spam. Just great travel tips.)

Leave this field empty if you're human:

Where can you find 4 waterfalls, 5 hydroelectric dams and a multi-use path connecting them? It’s all in Great Falls Montana.

Lewis and Clark encountered a series of 5 waterfalls here in 1804 on their journey up the mighty Missouri River. Although thrilled by the site of these ‘Great Falls’, the expedition had to make a huge portage around them to continue west.  You can hear about this entire journey at the Lewis and Clark Historic Trail Interpretive Center. Afterwards, visit the waterfalls yourself and marvel at the dams built to harness their power.

If you love outdoor recreation, Great Falls is the destination for you! Cycle or hike on the 50-mile long River’s Edge Trail.

With all this, Great Falls is the perfect place to enjoy a weekend!

Great Falls Montana Weekend Itinerary

• Day 1 Visit the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center.  Head west to explore the paved River’s Edge Trail and see Black Eagle Falls and Dam.
• Day 2 Visit Giant Springs State Park.  Explore the waterfalls and dams downstream from the state park. You can reach all waterfalls and dams on the River’s Edge Trail, but the section of trail east of the state park is more suitable for mountain biking.
• Optional Day 3 First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park.

We’ve also added some worthwhile side trips at the end if you have more time.  Have fun exploring the best things to do in Great Falls!

Top 5 Things To Do in Great Falls

At these top attractions you will learn about the Lewis and Clark Expedition which rode the Missouri River through Great Falls in 1805, on their epic journey to the Pacific Ocean. You’ll discover the waterfalls, the dams and the importance of the bison to the story of the American west.

Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center

The Interpretive Center’s exceptional interactive displays make you feel like a member of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The center is organized such that as you walk through it you are travelling the expedition’s entire route, learning about the successes and hardships along the way. The 2-storey diorama of a replica boat being pulled up a hill on the portage around the 5 waterfalls, highlights the difficulties of the Great Falls portage for the expedition.

The Interpretive Center is built into the bank of the Missouri River. A nature trail running down the river bank showcases native plants and wildlife of the area. This trail connects to the River’s Edge Trail, which runs along the Missouri River.

River’s Edge Trail

The trail is over 50 miles long on both sides of the Missouri. It has long paved sections which are wheelchair accessible and perfect for walking, jogging, rollerblading and cycling. Other areas are unpaved and great for mountain biking or hiking. Be sure to pack your walking shoes, bikes or blades (or rent them)!

There are city parks, trailheads and rest areas along the trail, with parking, restrooms and picnic tables. This trail is one of Montana’s best urban trail systems and allows easy access to the city’s beautiful waterfalls.

Waterfalls and Dams

The waterfalls and dams of Great Falls occur along 12 miles of the Missouri River. Over this distance the river bed drops around 450 vertical feet. Black Eagle Falls is the first waterfall as you head downstream.

Black Eagle Falls and Dam

The falls are about 25 feet high and 600 feet wide. For a closer look, visit Black Eagle Memorial Island Park at the bottom of the falls which you can reach from the north side of the Missouri River.

In 1890 the first hydroelectric dam in Montana was built here.  The current structure, built on top of the first dam, opened in 1927. It is over 30 feet high and 780 feet long.

The building of Black Eagle Dam and Rainbow Dam, just downstream, gave the city its nickname ‘Electric City’.

Rainbow Dam, Colter Falls, Rainbow Falls and Crooked Falls

Rainbow Dam is about 30 feet high and 1,000 feet long. It began producing electricity in 1910.  The upgrades in 2013 boosted electricity production and added safeguards to protect fish traveling down the Missouri River.  Colter Falls is a half-mile upstream from the dam. Today, it is covered by the waters of the dam’s reservoir and is rarely, if ever, seen.

Just downstream from the dam is Rainbow Falls which are about 45 feet high and 1,300 feet wide. Crooked Falls are a half mile further downstream where the Missouri flows over an irregular rock shelf around 19 feet high.

Cochrane Dam is the next dam downstream.

Cochrane Dam

It is close to 60 feet high and 750 feet long and is the newest dam at Great Falls. Construction was completed in 1958.

Ryan Dam was completed in 1915 and is 1.6 miles further downstream.

Great Falls, Ryan Dam and Ryan Island

Great Falls, also known as Big Falls, is impressive with a height of more than 80 feet. With Ryan Dam, built just above it, the total water fall is about 148 feet. Ryan Dam is over 1,300 feet long. Ryan Island Park is the best place to see Great Falls and Ryan Dam. A suspension bridge over the dam’s spillway gives access to the park. It’s a great place for a picnic.

As the river moves east, the river valley narrows and deepens. The Morony Dam was built in the late 1920’s about 3.5 miles downstream.

Morony Dam and former town site

Wander through the remains of the “town” which began as a shanty town in 1926 filled with makeshift structures housing the families of the men working to construct the dam. It is the tallest of the dams, about 100 feet high and 880 feet long. Construction was completed in 1929 and electricity generation began in 1930.

When the construction workers moved on, they left their shanty town shacks behind. More substantial company houses were built for dam operators making the town more permanent. Better monitoring systems and increasing automation at the dam, along with the growth of the city of Great Falls, led to this town being abandoned as well. You’ll see the ruins of concrete foundations, sidewalks and fire hydrants.

There is fishing below the Morony Dam and a 3.4 mile loop trail leads to a natural spring.

Giant Springs State Park

The park is one Montana’s most popular state parks. You’ll find its namesake, Giant Springs, the Fish Hatchery and what is left of the first industrial site in Great Falls. The park has a small visitor center, picnic tables and restrooms.

Giant Springs and Roe River

Giant Springs is one of the largest natural springs in the US sending over 150 million gallons of water a day into the Missouri River. The water is a constant 54F degrees so it never freezes and provides a guaranteed winter water source for wildlife and, in the past, humans. The Local Plains Tribes used the area as a winter camp as did the fur traders and trappers who came later. The area continues to be a great place to see wildlife.

The springs are the source of the Roe River, one of the shortest rivers in the world at only 200 feet long. Given the huge volume of fresh water here, the springs were a natural place to locate the fish hatchery.

Giant Springs Fish Hatchery

The fish hatchery began operations in 1922 and continues its important work today supporting the health of the fisheries of Montana. In its visitor center you’ll learn about the various stages of fish growth and the whole hatchery process. The hatchery raises millions of fish each year for release into bodies of water throughout Montana. The hatchery’s show ponds often have food stations so that you can feed the fish.

The first major industrial site in Great Falls was located on the opposite side of Giant Springs Road.

Montana Smelter Ruins

The ruins of 2 furnace stacks are all that remain of the silver and lead smelter which operated here between 1888 and 1902.  The operation had over 75 buildings and its most prominent feature was the stacks which each stood over 100 feet tall. The smelter processed ore mined in the mountains southeast of Great Falls. You can walk to the ruins from the state park’s picnic area.

About 15 miles west of Great Falls is the final attraction you don’t want to miss on your visit to Great Falls.

First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park

The highlight of this state park is the massive sandstone cliff with heights between 30 and 50 feet along its one mile length. It is one of the largest bison jump sites in North America. The state park itself is almost 1500 acres of prairie grassland. There is a 3-mile loop trail through the grassland between the cliff and the modern visitor center. At the visitor center, displays and hands-on activities explain the relationship between the bison and the people of the Northern Plains Tribes. You’ll learn about these people and successful efforts to save the bison from extinction.

You can reach the cliff by car or by taking the loop trail from the visitor center.

Archaeologists have found evidence of jump sites all along the cliff. In some places, piles of stone organized in v-shaped “drivelines” lead to the edge of the cliff.  In other places, there is evidence of up to 18 feet of compacted bison bones at the cliff base.

The view from the cliff edge is stunning.  You can look east to the Highwood Mountains and south over the grasslands of the Missouri River Valley, which teemed with bison until 200 years ago.  The Rocky Mountain Front Range is behind you.  To the west, you’ll note the stark monolith of Square Butte. Some Plains Tribes consider this place sacred. When you stand on the cliff, enjoying the quiet peace of the area, you may feel the same way.

More Great Falls Attractions

These points of interest in the city are perfect to round out your visit to Great Falls.

Broadwater Bay Park

This beautiful wide section of the Missouri River is close to hotels, restaurants and the River’s Edge Trail.  The boat launch here provides easy river access for paddle boarding, canoeing or kayaking. Its parking area is quite large offering a convenient place to leave your car while you explore the trail.

The trail crosses the Missouri River at 1^st Avenue. Here you’ll find some interesting art.

Painted Buffalo Art

Rainboffalo by artist Chris Miller combines his love of water and his respect for the freedom enjoyed by wild animals. You’ll find pieces like this throughout the city.  Artists have created them to celebrate the importance of bison in the history of the area.

Bridge Murals

Colorful murals have been painted by local artists on the concrete supports of the pedestrian bridge over the Missouri River and the walls of the railroad underpass at 1^st Avenue. The Children’s Museum of Montana is just east of the railroad at 1^st Avenue.

Here are a couple of other museums in Great Falls.

CM Russell Museum

See one of the most complete collections of the work of cowboy artist Charles M Russell.

Paris Gibson Square Museum of Art

The museum displays contemporary art by local artists. The building, built in 1896, was the city’s first high school. It is on the National Register of Historic Places.

The History Museum

Learn about the history and folk heritage of north central Montana.

Background History

Lewis and Clark Expedition

A small party of explorers led by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark left from just north of St. Louis, Missouri on the Mississippi River in May 1804. President Jefferson commissioned Lewis and Clark to explore the new western territory purchased from France in 1803. He hoped they would find a water route to the Pacific Ocean through the continental United States. The expedition arrived at the Pacific Ocean in November 1805 where they stayed for the winter. They journeyed over 4,000 miles, traversing water, mountains, and enduring incredible hardships along the way. The expedition returned to St. Louis in 1806 and was an unparalleled success.

All the expedition’s routes are now protected as a national historic trail.

Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail

The trail is part of the National Trails System and is about 4,900 miles long, extending from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, to the mouth of the Columbia River, near Astoria, Oregon.  It includes all the areas visited by Lewis and/or Clark.  This includes outbound and inbound routes, and the route from Pittsburgh as Lewis gathered people, equipment and supplies for their epic journey. The trail protects the historic corridor and provides sites where the public can connect with the story through education and recreation. There are many visitor centers and museums, each highlighting the expedition’s activities in that area.  

The 18 mile portage at Great Falls

Typical portages are short walks around a single waterfall. At Great Falls, the size and number of waterfalls meant that the expedition needed to walk around 5 waterfalls and 7 miles of river. This was an unexpected and major barrier. The final portage route was 18 miles long with many small gullies and 2 steep hills!

The men hauled heavy canoes and bulky equipment over the hills and through prairie covered with prickly pear cactus.  Their hands and feet quickly became blistered and lacerated. The portage took 11 days and several round trips to complete. The total distance walked was likely around 130 miles. The experience taught them hard lessons about cooperation, deadlines and the struggle of man against nature. The expedition stayed 19 days in the Great Falls area on its journey west, the most time spent in one place (excluding for winter camps).

Bison and Buffalo Jumps

Northern Plains People have gathered for thousands of years to celebrate, hunt and feast on bison, their center of life. The bison provided food, shelter, tools, materials and a spiritual connection to nature. Bison were hunted with spears and bows. This was a dangerous and often unsuccessful way to hunt. Driving the bison over a cliff to kill them was a much more effective method of hunting and it provided bison for large numbers of people all at once.

The tribe set up drivelines of stone cairns leading to the cliff edge. People would start the bison running into the driveline opening where more people lined the drive route, screaming and waving hides and blankets to keep the bison moving to the cliff edge.  At the bottom of the cliff, hunters would kill those bison not already dead. The monumental task of butchering and skinning the animals followed.  Almost all parts of the bison were used.

Great Falls Montana Map

Great Falls Accommodations

Looking for an accommodation in Great Falls?

Great Falls Hotels

Check out these great options in Great Falls.

• Hampton Inn – Great Falls – Exceptional
• Crystal Inn Hotel & Suites – Great Falls – Highly rated
• Here are other great hotels in Great Falls

Side Trips from Great Falls

If you have another day, visit Helena, the Montana state capital.  If you love unspoiled nature and have more time, take a trip to Glacier National Park.  You won’t regret your decision.

Helena Montana Side Trip

Enjoy a road trip south on Interstate 15 from Great Falls to Helena. It is only 1.5 hours away. See the Capitol building, constructed of Montana sandstone and granite, with its striking copper-covered dome.

Gorgeous historic buildings line Last Chance Gulch, the main street downtown.  In 1864 gold was discovered here. The Last Chance Gulch mine produced about $19 million worth of gold in just four years, the second biggest placer gold deposit in Montana. The town sprang up quickly and prospered even after the gold ran out. 

See the fire tower built in 1874 to protect the town. You’ll see the twin spires of the Cathedral of Saint Helena from a distance. They are 230 feet high and have 12-foot gold-leafed crosses on top. This is a great way to spend a day.

Glacier National Park Side Trip

Glacier National Park is 2.5 hours northwest of Great Falls. You’ll see untouched forests, alpine meadows, rugged mountains, spectacular lakes and waterfalls. This is a hiker’s paradise with hikes for all ability levels. Travel the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road, a park highlight itself, to Logan Pass and Lake McDonald.

Click here to find out more about Glacier National Park.

Interested in more Itineraries? Sign up here.

(No spam. Just great travel tips.)

Leave this field empty if you're human:

Travelling to Billings Montana? These are best things to do in Billings!

You’ll hike on the Rimrocks, visit the battlefield of Custer’s Last Stand, see ancient cave paintings and be awestruck by the stunning Beartooth Mountains. After a long day in the beautiful Billings area come back to downtown Billings to enjoy a brew or two.

Billings is waiting for you!

Billings 3-Day Itinerary

• Day 1 Explore Billings and the Rimrocks
• Day 2 Old West History Loop: The Crow People, General Custer and more
• Day 3 Take a scenic drive through the foothills of the Beartooth Mountains

Looking for more stunning scenery? Our side trip, the famous Beartooth Highway, is the perfect route directly to Yellowstone National Park.

Have a great trip to beautiful Billings, Montana

Best Things to do in Billings

With the Rimrocks and the Yellowstone River on its doorstep, there are plenty of fun outdoor activities in Billings.  Here are our top things to do in Billings.

Four Dances Natural Area

This is the best hiking in Billings. Hiking trails crisscross the Natural Area at the top of the beautiful sandstone cliffs of the East Rimrocks. There are 765 acres of sagebrush and ponderosa pines on the plateau ready for you to explore. Some paths lead to Sacrifice Cliff on the western edge where you can look down to the Yellowstone River, 500 feet below. Bicycles, motorized vehicles and horses are not allowed in Four Dances.  Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are winter activities here.

North Rimrocks

The best views of Billings and the Yellowstone River Valley are from the top of the North Rimrocks. In the distance you can see five mountain ranges (Pryor, Big Horn, Bull, Crazy and Absaroka-Beartooth). They offer infinite amounts of outdoor adventure: camping, fishing, hunting and mountain biking.

The Rimrocks are also popular with rock climbers. Watch for ropes tied off along the edge as people climb up or rappel down the face of the cliff.

Black Otter Trail

Cycling or walking this multi-use paved trail is a great way to explore the top of the North Rimrocks. The Black Otter Trail connects to a large network of urban trails running throughout the city. There are lots of parking areas nearby so it is easy to leave the car behind.

Yellowstone Kelly Interpretive Site

Learn about Luther “Yellowstone” Kelly’s contribution to the taming of the west. Interpretive signs near his gravesite introduce you to this trapper, hunter, guide, army scout, triple war veteran and businessman who traveled extensively in the late 1800s for the US Government.

Billings Walking Tour

A great way to experience this friendly social city is on a downtown walking tour. The map below is a walking loop linking downtown museums, interesting sites and the “Walkable Billings Brew Trail”. Many of the buildings are on the National Register of Historic Places. Walk all or only a part, stopping at interesting points along the way.

To help you customize your tour, here are some noteworthy places along the route.

Billings Depot

The Billing Depot was a passenger rail station from 1909 until the last train stopped here in 1979.  Today, the Depot is a popular events facility.  Check out the information boards behind the building. They provide lots of information on the history of Billings.

Western Heritage Center

The center highlights the regional history of the Yellowstone River Valley. The building was built in 1901 and was originally the Billings Library.

Moss Mansion Museum

The museum highlights the influence that Preston Moss and his family had on Billings’ growth. Built for Preston Moss in 1903, this 28-room mansion was the Moss home until opening as the museum in 1986.

Skypoint

This tent-like structure over the intersection of North Broadway and 2nd Avenue North is 3 “sails” (one moves!) offering protection against sun and rain.

Alberta Bair Theater

This 1931 art-deco theater is now a modern performing arts center, offering performances by both professional and amateur artists.

Yellowstone Art Museum and Visible Vault

The museum is the largest contemporary art museum in Montana. YAM has opened its art storage facility to the public at the Visible Vault. It is a unique opportunity to see how art is handled and stored.

Old West History Loop: The Crow People, General Custer and more

The area southeast of Billings is rich with Native American and early West history. See ancient cave paintings at Pictograph Cave State Park. Chief Plenty Coups State Park provides a great introduction to the Crow People. Pompey’s Pillar National Monument was visited by the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument is the site of General Custer’s famous “Last Stand”. The Big Horn County Museum’s 35 acres showcase early 19^th century county history.

These world-class attractions are all within an hour’s drive of Billings! Visiting two or three of these will fill your day.

Pictograph Cave State Park

See ancient cave paintings in Pictograph Cave, one of three caves preserved in Pictograph Cave State Park. A short loop trail connects the caves which were visited by generations of Crow and other Plains Tribes’ hunters. The Exhibits in the Visitor Center showcase some of the many artifacts collected locally. You’ll discover what archaeologists believe these artifacts teach us about the lives of the early Plains People.

Chief Plenty Coups State Park

The Visitor Center introduces the Crow culture. Chief Plenty Coups was instrumental in building trust between the Crow and the US government as the reservation system was being implemented. You’ll see his two-story log home, medicine spring and gravesite. The state park is Chief Plenty Coups’ 195-acre homestead on the Crow Reservation.

Pompey’s Pillar National Monument

Pompey’s Pillar is a 150-foot high sandstone monolith in the Yellowstone River Valley. It has been an observation point for more than 11,000 years. See “graffiti” documenting some of its visitors: from descendants of the Crow to Captain William Clark of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Take the interpretive trail to the top of the pillar as people have for thousands of years.

Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument

This battlefield is the site of Custer’s Last Stand. Here, in June 1876, several thousand Lakota and Cheyenne warriors won a decisive victory over the 7^th Calvary of the US Army, killing Custer and most of his command. Learn about the events leading to this decisive battle and its consequences. Walk the battlefield, see monuments to the fallen, and the cemeteries for both sides.

Big Horn County Museum

This collection of over 20 historic structures, on 35 acres, highlights the early history of Big Horn County.  The museum includes a church, school, train depot, blacksmith shop, log cabins and barns full of historic vehicles and equipment including artifacts of frontier life in the 1800s.

Billings Scenic Drives

These are 2 excellent scenic drives through the foothills of the Beartooth Mountains. If you start out early enough you can do both.

Beartooth Front Scenic Drive

This drive connects the quaint towns of Columbus and Red Lodge. On the 46-mile paved Highway 78, you’ll travel through wide river valleys and see rolling grass-covered foothills with stunning views of the Beartooth Mountains in the distance. Opportunities for fishing abound as you’ll cross the Yellowstone River and travel along the Stillwater River and East Rosebud Creek.

Below is a quick introduction to some of the interesting places along the road as you travel south.  It is stunning in either direction!

Columbus and the New Atlas Bar

Columbus is a gateway to the Absaroka-Beartooth Mountains. Make sure you stop at the New Atlas Bar, dubbed the “horniest bar in Montana”. Even a quick look at its collection of mounted animal heads will explain its fame.

Itch-Kep-Pe Park

If you plan to camp or just cannot wait to get that fishing rod out, check out Itch-Kep-Pe Park on the bank of the Yellowstone River at the edge of Columbus.

Absarokee

This is a great place to grab a quick bite to eat. It is the start of the Absarokee Loop Scenic Drive, described below.

Red Lodge

The town has an interesting mix of locally-owned shops and restaurants offering a wide range of food. Red Lodge Ales is a great place to have a meal and enjoy a locally-brewed beverage.  Red Lodge is the beginning of the Beartooth Highway, a beautiful route to the northeast entrance of Yellowstone National Park. See our side trip below for more information.

Carbon County Historical Society and Museum

Learn about local history, legendary local rodeo families (the Lindermans and the Greenoughs), see an interactive coal and hard rock mine exhibit and more. There is a lot packed into this 1909 building listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Carbon County Depot Gallery

When you visit the Carbon County Depot Gallery, in the historic 1889 railroad depot, you’ll discover the area’s vibrant arts culture. The Depot displays original art in a variety of styles and media.

Absarokee Loop Scenic Drive

Drive through the scenic foothills and river valleys of the Beartooth Mountains. Starting in Absarokee, travel the beautiful Stillwater River valley on Highway 420 to Nye.  There are many fishing access points to the Stillwater, which is known for excellent trout fishing. To complete the 44-mile long loop, take highways 419 and 78 back to Absarokee.

Interested in a hike? There are 2 hiking options with trailheads less than 10 miles south of Nye on Highway 419.

Sioux Charley Lake Trail

This trail is a nice, easy 6-mile roundtrip hike. It is relatively flat with only a couple of short uphill pieces. The first part of the trip is along the Stillwater River rapids. A beautiful forest path leads you to sparkling Sioux Charley Lake. The large trailhead parking lot is at the end of Highway 419. Families will find this a great hike. It is best to wear proper hiking shoes.  

Woodbine Falls Trail

If you are looking for a shorter hike, try the nearby Woodbine Falls Trail.  This 1.4 mile roundtrip trail ending at Woodbine Falls is for all skill levels. The trailhead is located in the Woodbine Campground.

Side Trip – Beartooth Highway

The highway winds for 70 miles from Red Lodge through the Beartooth Pass to the northeast entrance of Yellowstone National Park. The scenery you drive through is incredible regardless of the weather.

You’ll see some of the most rugged and wild areas of the lower 48 states, passing from lodge pole pine forest to alpine tundra. Grizzly and black bears along with elk, deer, moose, mountain goats, mountain lions, bighorn sheep and bobcats can all be found in the Beartooth Mountains. There are many alpine lakes and hiking trails to explore.

The highway has 7 miles of exhilarating switchbacks between Red Lodge and the Beartooth Pass.  The elevation change is almost a mile! Take your time and enjoy the scenery. From Rock Creek Vista Point, look down on the switchbacks you just climbed, to the stunning river valley. Signs here provide information about the natural history of the area and the story of the highway’s construction and opening in 1936.

Allow at least 2 or 3 hours for the trip, but plan on more as the views will have you stopping regularly. Trip length can also be affected by weather changes along the route. Weather can change dramatically along the drive so be prepared for cold weather, even in the summer.

The Beartooth Highway is usually open by Memorial Day and closes by mid-October, but snow and ice conditions vary greatly year to year so use these dates only as a guideline.

Know Before You Go

Best Time to Visit

Visit between June and September.  Outside of these months, you could see snow.

Directions to Billings Montana

Billings Logan International Airport has a modern terminal accepting domestic flights. All the major car rental agencies have cars on-site. Uber and Lyft offer service in Billings.

Hiking Tips

Make sure your hiking pack includes these items:

• First aid kit with blister treatments.
• Water and snacks – There are NO taps on the trail.
• Map
• Bear spray

Billings Accommodations

Looking for an accommodation in Billings?

Billings Hotels

Make Billings your home base while you explore the Billings area. Check out these great options.

• Northern Hotel – Exceptional
• Boothill Inn and Suites – Highly rated
• Here are other great hotels in Billings

Billings Montana Map

Interested in more Itineraries? Sign up here.

(No spam. Just great travel tips.)

Leave this field empty if you're human: