Author

Valerie Vanr

Glendalough Monastery with mountain behind

Glendalough Monastery and the Best Glendalough Walks

by Valerie Vanr January 11, 2021

Glendalough Monastery is one of Ireland’s earliest Christian monasteries. Its seven church ruins are found in the stunning Glendalough Valley, part of Wicklow Mountains National Park. Exploring the monastery and any of the Glendalough Walks is a great day trip from Dublin.

Glendalough Monastery

St. Kevin, patron saint of Dublin, founded the monastery in the Glendalough Valley in the late 6^th century CE. The resulting monastic city flourished for six centuries after his death in 618. While the monastery survived attacks from both the Vikings and the Normans, it was the English in 1398 that finally ended its dominance.

Despite this, Glendalough continued to be a focus of pilgrimage well into the 18^th and 19^th centuries. In the last century the area has become one of Ireland’s most popular tourist destinations.

Glendalough monastery center mountain background — The large ruins of the Glendalough Monastery stand out in the beautiful Glendalough Valley.

The structures you’ll see were built in the 10^th and 12^th centuries. They are all that survived of a large complex of workshops, guest houses, infirmaries, farm buildings and dwellings for the monks and the lay population.

Glendalough Map

The Visitor Centre is a great place start your visit and learn more about the monastery.

Glendalough Visitor Centre

Exhibits and an audio-visual presentation introduce you to St. Kevin, the monastery and the lives of those who lived here. A model of the entire area will help you get oriented. Staff is available to answer your questions and suggest ways to explore it. Often guided tours are available.

Many of the exhibits inside the centre are richly carved crosses found nearby. See the ornate 12^th century cross, called the Market Cross, which stands 2 metres high. It features carvings of a crucified Christ and a bishop, likely St. Kevin.

The visitor centre is open daily throughout the year except around Christmas. There is an admission fee to the visitor centre but not to the monastic site itself. The centre is fully accessible for visitors with disabilities however the paths of the graveyard are very difficult for wheelchairs.

Narrow path goes under gravestones tipped against each other — Gravestones have toppled in a number of places and the paths don’t always go around them.

Glendalough Gateway

The two granite arches of the Gateway are almost all that remains of the monastery’s enclosure wall. The gateway was originally two-storied with a timber roof. It is the only remaining medieval gateway to an early monastic settlement in Ireland.

Glendalough Round Tower

The tower, built between 900 and 1200 CE, stands out on the horizon as a landmark for visitors today, as it did when the city was occupied. Built primarily as a bell tower, it is about 30 metres tall. The entrance to the tower is 3.5 metres up the tower, which was likely accessed by a movable ladder. During an attack the ladder could be removed, protecting those sheltering inside. Walk around the tower and note the window placement. This is ideal for both maximizing light inside and providing 360 degree visibility surrounding the tower. Round towers are rarely found outside Ireland and are typical of early Irish monasteries.

Glendalough Cathedral

This is the largest building found at Glendalough and it shows evidence of multiple building phases. The square west doorway leads to the nave where the congregation gathered. This is the oldest part of the building. The chancel and sacristy on the east side of the building were added in the late 12^th and early 13^th centuries.

Child explores chancel of Glendalough Monastery Cathedral — The pattern of the stones of this east window remains quite beautiful. It would have been very decorative when the chancel was added over 800 years ago.

The placement of the stones in the east window suggests the window was very decorative. Under the south window, see the wall cupboard thought to be for storing sacred vessels.

In 1214, when the diocese of Glendalough was united with that of Dublin, this church was no longer recognized as a cathedral.

St. Kevin’s Cross

The large, fairly plain cross found near the cathedral is carved from a single piece of granite. It is unusual as its ring is not perforated like most Celtic crosses. Local legend says anyone who can wrap their arms around the entire width of the cross and close the circle by touching their fingertips will have their wishes granted. If you have long arms, be sure to try your luck!

This cross marks the east side of the earliest graveyard at Glendalough.

Glendalough Graveyard

The area around the cathedral was likely a cemetery from at least the 11^th century. Overall the Glendalough Graveyard contains more than 2000 gravestones. Most of the engraving on the oldest stones is not visible. Look for them near the east gable of the Priests’ House.

Woman crouching under gravestones tipped against each otherGlendalough Roun — The graveyard is centered in the area around the Tower, the Cathedral and the Priests’ House.

Priests’ House

This building with partial walls is a reconstruction based on a late 18^th century sketch. In the 18^th and 19^th centuries, several priests were interred within it. The building’s exact use is not known.

St. Kevin’s Church

Its steep roof of overlapping stones is supported internally by an upper vault. Originally the church had only a nave. A chancel, now gone, and sacristy were added later. The belfry on the west end is a miniature round tower.

Since the roof of this building survived, a large number of crosses, cross-slabs and other architectural fragments were stored within it. Many of these are now displayed in the Visitor Centre.

Stone building with stone roof and tower — While food was never cooked here, this church is commonly known as St. Kevin’s Kitchen since its bell tower resembles a kitchen chimney.

St. Kieran’s Church

The foundations of this church were uncovered in 1875. Its name is believed to be in honour of St. Kieran, founder of Clonmacnoise. It was a monastic settlement associated with Glendalough in the 10^th century.

St. Mary’s Church

The church is hidden in a small grove of trees to the west of the buildings in the graveyard. Unfortunately, we missed seeing this on our visit. To reach it, walk the main road west toward Upper Lake. In about 200 metres a lane leads to the right and you’ll see a stile into a field on the left. Go over the stile and walk ahead to the trees. The church is one of the earliest here and best constructed.

Head back to the road and continue west past the Lower Lake to Upper Lake. Adjacent to Glendalough’s Upper Lake parking area you’ll notice a stone circle.

Caher Stone Circle

This dry-stone circular enclosure is 20 metres across. It is not known when it was built or even what its purpose was.

Large dry-stone circle Glendalough — A number of crosses can be found between the lakes like the cross in the background. Their purpose is unknown.

Reefert Church

This simple church is in a grove of trees near the shore of Upper Lake. It is from the late 11^th century but most of the present walls are more modern. Parts of the church were rebuilt about 100 years ago using some of the original stones.

St. Kevin’s Cell

Just west of the church, you’ll find stone foundations. The area is about 3.5 metres wide and the walls would have been almost a metre thick. It is suggested that its construction was similar to the “beehive” huts found in southwest Ireland.

Temple-na-skellig and St. Kevin’s Bed

You can only reach this area on the south side of Upper Lake by boat. Stairs lead from the shore up to the small rectangular church. A raised platform with walls west of the church may have been the site of dwellings.

St. Kevin’s Bed is a cave believed to have been St. Kevin’s refuge when he first arrived in the Glendalough Valley. It is partially man-made and about 2 metres deep. The cave opening is about 8 metres above the level of the lake.

To the east of the Glendalough Visitor Centre parking, there are 2 more churches which are part of the monastic city.

Trinity Church

From the main road you can see the foundations of a simple nave and chancel church.

St. Saviour’s Church

This 12^th century church is the newest and the furthest east of the monastery’s churches, quite close to village of Laragh. It was restored in the 1870s using stones found nearby.

Wicklow Mountains National Park

The 20,000 hectare park of beautiful mountain wilderness was established in 1991. Most of the park is remote with few facilities. There is no entry fee to the National Park or to the Information Office, however there is a charge to park in the car parks.

Over the years, humans have had an impact on this natural area. Neolithic farmers (more than 4,000 years ago) cleared trees which led to the formation of the blanket bogs seen today. You’ll also see the scars of 150 years of mining in some of the valleys. The most obvious change is the Glendalough Monastery in the Glendalough Valley, the most visited area of the national park.

Couple stands in front of Glendalough's Upper Lake — You get a stunning panoramic view of the Glendalough Valley from the beach at Upper Lake.

Glendalough Valley

This spectacular glacial valley in the heart of the park stretches for 3 kilometres. The Irish ‘Gleann dá Locha’ means ‘valley of the two lakes’. The natural beauty of the two lakes and the surrounding mountains have brought travellers for thousands of years. Today the valley attracts visitors who explore the ruins of the monastery and walk the valley’s paths enjoying the outstanding scenery.

Glendalough Walks

All nine of the way-marked trails start at the National Park Information Office at Upper Lake where a paper trail guide is available. You’ll get amazing views of the lakes and explore the region nearby. Both the Wicklow Way and St. Kevin’s Way pass through the Glendalough Valley, paralleling parts of several trails.

Glendalough Walks Map

Glendalough Walking Trails

Here’s a summary of the 9 walks.

Walk Name	Grade/Climb	Length/Time
Miners’ Road	Easy, 20 m	5 km/ 1:10
Green Road	Easy, 20 m	3 km/ 0:50
Poulanass	Moderate, 100 m	1.6 km/ 0:40
Poulanass and St.Kevin’s Cell	Moderate, 85 m	1 km/ 0:30
Derrybawn Woodland Trail	Ramble, 160 m	8 km/ 2:00
Woodland Road	Ramble, 90 m	4 km/ 1:15
Spinc and Glenealo Valley	Hillwalk, 380 m	9 km/ 3:00
Spinc and the Wicklow Way	Hillwalk, 490 m	11 km/ 4:00
Spinc (short route)	Hillwalk, 300 m	5 km/ 2:00

Glendalough Hiking Tips. Wear good walking shoes and always take water with you. Hillwalks are not recommended for solo walkers or walkers without experience. If you take a hillwalk, leave details of your route and estimated return time with someone. On a hillwalk, carry a map and compass and know how to use them.

Best Glendalough Walks

Green Road Walk
Spinc and Gleanealo Valley

Green Road Walk (Green Route)

This is a short loop walk around Lower Lake. As you round the east side of the lake on the boardwalk, enjoy the view up the valley. The path along the road to Upper Lake is paved.

Spinc and Glenealo Valley (White Route)

This is one of the most popular Glendalough Walks. The scenery is considered some of the most spectacular in County Wicklow. The trail begins with a short steep climb up the west side of the Poulanass Waterfall. A boardwalk to the right and a set of more than 600 steps will lead you to a breathtaking view of Upper Lake.

Narrow Poulanass Falls through green forest — The Poulanass Waterfall is a series of falls and pools carrying water from the mountain peak down to Upper Lake.

The boardwalk continues along the top of the Spinc, then descends through blanket bog and heath into the Glenealo Valley. A rough path leads down to the shore of Upper Lake where you’ll find ruins of a Miners’ Village. Lead, silver and zinc were mined in this valley and the neighbouring Glendasan Valley between 1800 and 1963. As you walk back along the north shore of Upper Lake watch for a sign post where you can look across the lake and see St. Kevin’s Bed.

Glendalough Valley mountains at head of lake — A rough path parallels the Glenealo River down to the shore of Upper Lake.

This is a hillwalk so be prepared for a challenging 3 hour walk.

Short Glendalough Walk

If you are short of time, you can still enjoy a quick walk and get a flavour for the area. Walk through the Glendalough monastic site, exiting to the south across the bridge. Walk west on the Green Road to Upper Lake. Climb to Poulanass Waterfall. Turn around, heading back to Upper Lake. Walk the path on the north shore of Lower Lake back to your starting point. This takes about 1.5 hours.

Glendalough's Round Tower, St. Kevin's Church from afar — The round towers stand out when you look north to the Glendalough monastic settlement from the Green Road.

Long-Distance Walks

As you walk the trails at Glendalough you may notice sign posts for the Wicklow Way and St. Kevin’s Way. If you have more time and are looking for more challenging adventures you may want to investigate these further.

Wicklow Way

The Wicklow Way is the best known of Ireland’s long-distance ‘way-marked’ walks. It was the first to be formally established in 1980. It begins in south Dublin and travels 127 kilometres, roughly south, through the Wicklow Mountains to the village of Clonegal.

St. Kevin’s Way

St. Kevin’s Way is a pilgrimage trail leading to Glendalough. The main path begins in the west of County Wicklow at Hollywood and travels 30 kilometres up over the Wickow Gap and down to Glendalough. An alternative spur starts in Valleymount.

Sculpted stone post Glendalough monastery — A number of carved stone crosses and statues are found between the lakes. They may have been markers along the pilgrimage route to the Glendalough Monastery.

How to get to Glendalough from Dublin

By Car

Head south from Dublin on the N11/M11 to Kilmacanogue village. Take the exit marked Roundwood/Glendalough (R755) and follow the R755 to Laragh village (25 km). Stay on the main road through Laragh which becomes the R756 to the Glendalough Valley (2 km).

By Bus

There are a couple options between Dublin and Glendalough Visitor Center.

St. Kevin’s Bus is a private company operating since 1927. Their buses run year-round between St. Stephen’s Green in Dublin and the Glendalough Visitor Center. Check the St. Kevin’s Bus website for schedules and fares.

The Irish public transit system is integrated between urban transit, national rail service, and national and regional bus lines. Visit the Transport for Ireland website to plan your journey and determine the fare. The exact route to Glendalough Visitor Center will depend on where you start and when you are travelling.

Glendalough Monastery Round Tower and graveyard — The Round Tower is the only structure in the Glendalough Monastery which is totally intact.

Facts about Glendalough

Who was St. Kevin?

St. Kevin was a descendent of one of the ruling families of the province Leinster. As a boy he was schooled by holy men and visited the Glendalough Valley. Later he returned with a small group of monks in search of a place of solitude. He eventually founded the monastery. He was canonized in 1903 by the Roman Catholic Church and is a patron saint of Dublin.

Is Glendalough open year round?

Yes. You can enter the Glendalough monastery ruins at any time. The visitor centre is open most days from at least 9:30 to 17:00. It has longer hours during the peak summer season.

Is there a charge to visit the monastery at Glendalough?

There is an admission fee to enter the Visitor Centre but the monastery itself is free of charge. Parking charges are in effect at many of the parking lots, particularly during busy periods.

How long do you need to visit Glendalough?

You can spend as little as an hour walking through the monastic city or you can spend a full day enjoying various walks. The way-marked walking trails vary from short half hour strolls to long 4-hour hillwalks. The Glendalough Visitor Centre recommends at least an hour and a half for a visit to its exhibits.

Can you swim in Glendalough?

Yes. The sandy beach at the eastern end of Upper Lake is popular during the summer. The area is not supervised so you swim at your own risk. The lake is deep and the depth changes quickly. Parents should never leave children without supervision.

Can we picnic in Glendalough?

Yes. Glendalough has picnic areas at the Upper Lake. All litter is to be taken out following the principles of ‘Leave No Trace’.

Is boating, canoeing or kayaking allowed in Glendalough?

No. None of these activities are allowed in the lakes of the Glendalough Valley as they are a part of a nature reserve.

Are climbing and bouldering allowed in Glendalough?

Yes. Climbers must watch that they do not dislodge cliff plants or disturb birds during breeding seasons. Check at the information office for the times of these seasons.

Couple sitting on U-shaped tree limb — Enjoy the beautiful Glendalough Valley!

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Aerial view Washington DC Memorial Parks

USA

Washington DC in 2 Days – A Walking Tour of the Best Sites

by Valerie Vanr January 1, 2021

Washington DC, the capitol of the United States, is an amazing city. You’ll find free museums, memorials to iconic US presidents and to the sacrifices of US citizens around the world. These are all set in parkland on the banks of the Potomac River. Walk Pennsylvania Avenue, America’s Main Street and see the White House and the US Capitol.

This two-day walking tour is the perfect way to explore the best sites of Washington DC!

Fountains World War II Memorial Washington DC

Washington DC 2-Day Itinerary

Day 1:

Walk the Memorial Parks and the National Mall
Choose and explore two Museums on the Mall

Day 2:

See the White House as you walk the Ellipse and Lafayette Park
Discover the history of Pennsylvania Avenue
Explore the US Capitol area

How to visit Washington DC

Washington DC is a planned city and designed as the seat of government over 200 years ago. Its core is the triangle created by the US Capitol, the White House and The Mall, known as Federal Triangle. The Potomac Parks are the lands to the west of the Washington Monument, reclaimed from the Potomac in the late 1800s.

Our itinerary concentrates on Federal Triangle and the Potomac Parks. The best way to explore the area is on foot.

Washington DC Walking Map

Washington DC map — Click on the map to access the interactive version.

Memorial Parks and the National Mall

We list the memorials below in the order you’ll find them as you walk in a counterclockwise direction. The loop from the Washington Monument to all the memorials is about 3.2 miles. The distance around the rectangle called “The Mall” between the Washington Monument and the US Capitol is about 2.8 miles. Many of the Smithsonian Museums are on The Mall along with the National Gallery of Art. There are lots of places to stop for a break and food vendors where you can grab a bite to eat.

Washington Monument

The Washington Monument stands 555 feet tall and is the perfect first tour stop to get an overall view of the area. You need timed-entrance tickets to visit the 500 foot observation level. Purchase them online before you visit.

The view is stunning in all directions. To the west are the Lincoln Memorial and many of the veteran’s memorials. The Thomas Jefferson Memorial and the tidal basin are both visible to the south. To the east you can see The Mall with the Smithsonian museums and the US Capitol. The Ellipse and the White House are directly to the north.

The monument’s stones are two different colors showing the two phases of construction. When completed in 1884, it was the tallest building in the world.

World War II Memorial

Dedicated in 2004, the stunning memorial is made of white marble. It honors the sacrifices of both the American people at home, supporting the war effort, and the 16 million who served overseas. The Freedom Wall’s gold stars commemorate the more than 400,000 Americans who gave their lives in the war.

The Atlantic and Pacific arched pavilions remind visitors that the war theatre was across two oceans. Between the pavilions are 56 pillars, one for each US state and territory.

Constitution Gardens

This 50-acre garden and lake, a bicentennial project, commemorates American independence. A monument, on the island in the middle of the lake, honors the 56 signers of the American Constitution. Military headquarters buildings occupied this spot until the 1970s.

Vietnam Veterans Memorial

Two black-granite walls, each about 250 feet long, form a “V”. The names of the more than 58,000 men and women who gave their lives or remain missing are etched into the walls in the order they died or disappeared. The walls point to the Lincoln Memorial and the Washington Monument. This somber subtle memorial was dedicated in November 1982.

Nearby is the 3 Servicemen Statue. This realistic depiction of three Vietnam servicemen was dedicated in 1984. The Vietnam Women’s Memorial was dedicated in 1993, honoring the courage and sacrifice of all the women who served in the war.

3 bronze statues of Vietnam War servicemen — The statue shows 3 servicemen and what they carried in the Vietnam War.

Bronze statue of women helping wounded man — For the most part, women served as nurses, air traffic controllers and communication specialists during the Vietnam War.

Lincoln Memorial

Dedicated in 1922, this memorial to the 16th US President looks like a huge Greek temple. Each of its 38 columns is 44 feet tall and 7.5 feet across. Inside the memorial is a statue of Abraham Lincoln. The seated Lincoln measures 19 feet from head to toe.

Seated Lincoln statue in Lincoln Memorial — Made of Georgia white marble, the statue of Lincoln weighs 175 tons

His famous Civil War Gettysburg Address and his 2^nd Inaugural speech are engraved on the north and south walls. Look for the engraving on the monument’s steps noting the spot where Martin Luther King Jr. delivered his “I Have a Dream” speech in 1963 overlooking the reflecting pool.

Lincoln Memorial Reflecting Pool

Washington Memorial reflected in Lincoln Reflecting Pool — Stand on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial for a great picture of the Washington Monument reflected in the pool.

Constructed in 1922/23, the pool is 2,000 feet long and 165 feet wide, 18 inches deep at its edges and 30 inches in the center. The 2011 renovation added the paved walkways on the north and south sides.

Korean War Veterans Memorial

Dedicated in 1995, the memorial commemorates the sacrifices of 5.8 million American service members during the Korean War (1950 to 1953). In that short time 36,574 Americans died in hostile actions. Of those, 8,200 are listed as missing in action and lost or buried at sea. More than 100,000 were wounded.

There are nineteen stainless steel foot soldiers, in full battle gear. They advance through Juniper bushes separated by granite strips representing the rice paddies of Korea. The figures showcase both the various branches of the armed forces and the ethnic cross section of America. The reflective wall beside the statues is 164 feet long. The etchings on the wall are from hundreds of photos from the war.

Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial

2 blocks of granite called the Mountain of Despair flank a 30-foot tall sculpture of King. King’s quotes are inscribed into the walls around the memorial. It was dedicated in 2011, the 48th anniversary of the August 1963 “March on Washington for Jobs and Freedom”.

King's sculpture stands alone with 2 mountains behind — The 30 foot tall sculpture and the Mountain were partially carved in the artist’s studio then transported to Washington, in 159 pieces, and completed on site.

Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial

The memorial presents the story of Roosevelt’s 4 terms in office. There are statues, fountains and peaceful alcoves in red-granite rooms over 7.5 acres on the southwest side of the Tidal Basin. It is a unique memorial to the longest-serving US president (1933 to 1945). The 2-term limit for US Presidents became law shortly after his death.

Thomas Jefferson Memorial

The memorial honors the 3^rd president, drafter of the Declaration of Independence and founder of the University of Virginia. Dedicated in 1943, its design resembles his library at the university.

Carousel on the National Mall

Carousel showing 4 horses abreast — The carousel was designed to be folded up and moved from place to place as part of a travelling fair.

This beautiful 1940s carousel is unusual as the horses are 4 abreast and all are jumping. It was moved to the Mall in 1981 from an amusement park outside of Baltimore.

Ulysses S Grant Memorial and Capitol Reflecting Pool

You cannot miss the 17 foot tall statue of General Ulysses S Grant on his war horse at the east end of The Mall. Dedicated in 1922, the memorial honors the Civil War general and 18th US president. Construction lasted 20 years.

Green lawn National Mall to Washington Monument — The green lawn of the Mall stretches between the Ulysses S Grant Memorial and the Washington Monument

Couple in front of Reflecting Pool and US Capitol — Beautiful afternoon sun on the Capitol Building and Reflecting Pool

There are great photo opportunities here. In the morning, you have a stunning view looking west to The Mall and the Washington Monument. In the afternoon, take the perfect picture of the US Capitol from the west side of the reflecting pool.

National Gallery of Art

The two buildings on either side of 4th Street NW are the National Gallery of Art. An underground walkway connects the buildings. This was nice when the skies opened up during my visit. Admission is free.

3 panelled art work National Art Gallery — This modern triptych, art in 3 sections, is in the East Building.

The east building displays modern and contemporary art in both permanent and temporary exhibitions over five floors. There are paintings, sculpture, photography, works on paper, and media arts.

Bronze cast Rodin's Thinker National Art Gallery — Rodin’s original of The Thinker is about 6 feet tall and is in the Musée Rodin in Paris. There were a number of casts made which are now in galleries worldwide.

The west building houses artwork from the 11^th through the 19^th centuries. Works are exhibited by period and national origin.

The sculpture garden to the north across 7^th Street NW features large-scale works of modern sculpture. It is a great place to take a break.

Smithsonian Museums on the Mall

The Smithsonian is the world’s largest museum complex with over 150 million artifacts in trust for the American people. James Smithson, an English scientist, willed part of his estate to the United States for the increase and diffusion of knowledge and the Smithsonian was born.

Smithsonian Castle

This is the Smithsonian’s Visitor Center. Completed in 1855, it was the first Smithsonian museum. The helpful staff answer any questions. Tour the Castle’s exhibits for insight into the scope and scale of the Smithsonian’s collections.

The crypt in the North Tower holds Smithson’s remains. Originally buried in Genoa Italy, his remains were moved here in 1904. Interestingly, while alive, Smithson did not visit the United States.

Enjoy the beautiful Enid A Haupt Garden behind the Castle.

Freer Gallery of Art and Arthur M Sackler Gallery

Gold Ewer and bronze god Shiva Smithsonian Asian Art — Gold ewer from Iran and a bronze of the Hindu God Shiva both from the 10th century CE.

These 2 galleries showcase the power and grace of Asian art and its ability to reflect culture. Combined they are the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Asian Art. The collections have more than 40,000 objects from the Ancient East, Asia, and the Islamic world. Their ages range from over 4 centuries to current times. These galleries connect underground.

National Museum of African Art

Museum African Art entrance and circular art — At the National Museum of African Art find the Rainbow Serpent created by Romuald Hazoumè from jerry cans.

The museum’s over 11,000 objects are some of the finest examples of traditional and contemporary African art. The exhibits show the beauty and diversity of African arts.

Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden

Modern art in front of cylindrical Hirshhorn Museum — The plaza surrounding the cylindrical Hirshhorn Museum has several large pieces of modern art.

The Hirshhorn displays international modern and contemporary art. The exhibits change regularly and highlight major artists and trends. The sculpture garden across Jefferson Drive has works by Auguste Rodin, Henry Moore and even Yoko Ono.

National Air and Space Museum

Museum visitors under aircraft hanging from ceiling, displ — At the National Air and Space Museum aircraft of all kinds are hanging from the rafters.

One of the most popular Smithsonians is undergoing an extensive remodelling. The building remains open to the public with small areas closing as they are renovated. If you have more time, visit the Steven F Udvar-Hazy Center (insert internal link) in Chantilly Virginia. You’ll see hundreds of historically significant aircraft and spacecraft.

National Museum of the American Indian

The museum’s collection of Native American arts and artifacts is one of the world’s most extensive. It covers over 12,000 years of history and includes all major cultural areas in the Americas.

National Museum of Natural History

Full sized Elephant in lobby Natural History Museum — Henry the elephant weighs 11-ton and is 13 feet tall.

Hope Diamond display Natural History Museum — It is unclear who initially owned the Hope Diamond or where it was found though it is believed to have been mined in India in the early 1600s.

Many know this museum from the 2006 Hollywood blockbuster ‘Night at the Museum’. You can’t miss Henry, the African Bush Elephant. He’s been on display in the entrance lobby since 1959. The museum is home to life-size sea mammals displayed in the Sant Ocean Hall, the 45.5-carat blue Hope Diamond and much more. It’s a “must-do” for kids and fun for adults too.

National Museum of American History

American history museum display — Displays teach about the many wars Americans have served in worldwide.

3 guns on deck of wooden gunboat Philadelphia — The Philadelphia was one of the gunboats built by Benedict Arnold in 1776 to fight the British during the American War of Independence.

For fans of Americana, this is the museum for you. It is devoted to all aspects of the growth of America. You’ll find everything from Washington’s military uniform and Jefferson’s portable desk to Dorothy’s Wizard of Oz ruby slippers. This is a trip down memory lane for the over 40 crowd with lots of things for the kids as well.

National Museum of African American History and Culture

Indoor waterfall and statues of Black power salute — Contemplative Court’s water feature and the 1968 Olympics Black Power salute

The newest Smithsonian museum’s architecture stands out on the mall. It’s the only national museum focusing exclusively on African American life, art, history and culture. Begin in the underground levels. You walk through history; from the Transatlantic Slave Trade of the 1400’s to the defining moments of the 1960’s. The 3 floors above the entrance level highlight African American contributions to American culture.

The White House

Aerial view Ellipse, south lawn and White House — The south lawn of the White House, while off-limits to the general public, is used for both official state events and informal gatherings including the annual White House Egg Rolling Contest.

The White House is the oldest public building in Washington DC. Its cornerstone was laid 1792. John Adams, the second president, moved in on November 1, 1800. Every president since has lived here. Over the years, business and family needs required changes and expansions to the White House but the original structure remains. To visit you must apply several months in advance of your visit. See the National Parks White House Tour page for information.

The Ellipse

This park is between the White House and the Washington Monument. It is a community gathering space. Recreational activities and many demonstrations take place here.

Fences at edge south lawn White House — The “back” of the White House looks out on the south lawn and the Ellipse.

The north end of the oval walkway at E Street NW is the closest you’ll get to the south lawn of the White House. Just to the east is the National Christmas Tree, planted on the Ellipse in October 1978. Every year Christmas lights illuminate the tree and have since 1923.

Walk west past the First Infantry Division Monument to 17^th Street NW. Walk north past the huge grey 19^th century Eisenhower Executive Office Building to Pennsylvania Avenue. Lafayette Square is just east along this pedestrian street.

Lafayette Square

Distant view crowd at fence north lawn White House — The North Portico of the White House is where visiting heads of state are welcomed for state dinners.

Mounted Andrew Jackson Statue and 3 wheeled cannons — General Andrew Jackson Statue is in the center of Lafayette Square.

The seven-acre park north of the White House is named for the Marquis de Lafayette. He was a wealthy French hero of the American Revolutionary War. The park has several statues of other European heroes of the Revolutionary War. The centerpiece is the 19^th century statue of President and General, Andrew Jackson on horseback. This is the first bronze statue cast in the US.

Walk to the north end of the park.

St. John’s Episcopal Church

This pretty yellow Greek revival building is also called the Church of the Presidents. Completed in 1816, every sitting president has visited at least once. It is a National Historic Landmark.

From Lafayette Square walk east to 15^th Street NW and south for about 3 blocks to reach Pennsylvania Avenue where it continues east.

Pennsylvania Avenue

Aerial view Pennsylvania Ave Washington DC — Pennsylvania Avenue National Historic Site preserves significant structures and places.

The avenue between the White House and the Capitol Building is home to a number of monuments and museums. America’s Main Street often plays host to marches, parades, and protests. Wander history as you stroll to the Capitol Building.

Pershing Park

Statue of Pershing Washington DC — Pershing and George Washington are the only US Generals awarded the rank of General of the Armies, the highest possible rank in the US Army.

Created in the early 1980’s, this park at 15th and Pennsylvania honors John J Pershing. He commanded the US army’s forces in World War I. His statue stands by the walls of the American Expeditionary Forces Memorial. This is the site of a new National World War I Memorial.

White House Visitor Center

The visitor center is across Pennsylvania and south of Pershing Park. This is a chance to see some of the White House without an actual visitor’s pass. There are historical artifacts and interactive exhibits for all ages. Displays include archival photos and footage of White House events.

Freedom Plaza

The marble surface of the plaza shows a partial representation of the L’Enfant Plan for the city developed in 1791. See how the streets you’ve been exploring still follow the plan. The best overall view is from the Clock Tower of the Old Post Office Building.

Old Post Office Building

The beautiful building on the south side of Pennsylvania at 12^th Street opened as Trump International Hotel Washington in 2016 after extensive renovations. This was US Postal Service’s national headquarters from 1899 to 1914 when they outgrew it. The building avoided the wrecking ball several times until being placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Enter the Old Post Office Museum at the back of the building. Early Washington DC photographs show how the city has grown over the years. Take the elevators to the Clock Tower and its observation deck for another aerial view of the city. The tower stands about 300 feet tall dwarfed only by the Washington Monument and the National Shrine.

Travel north on 10^th Street NW for 2 blocks to #511.

Ford’s Theatre

President Abraham Lincoln was assassinated in the theatre in April 1865. The building houses a Lincoln Museum and an active theatre.

Lincoln was taken across the street to a room in Petersen House where he died the next morning. The house is open to the public.

Take 9^th Street back to Pennsylvania and continue east.

US Navy Memorial Plaza and the Naval Heritage Center

The memorial honors the men and women of the Navy, Marine Corps, Coast Guard and the Merchant Marine who serve in both war and peace. Adjacent to the memorial plaza is the Navel Heritage Center. Learn about the sea services. You can also register and search for active service members and veterans.

National Archives Museum

The archives protect items telling the story of the growth of US, its government and the American people. See the original signed copies of the Declaration of Independence, Constitution of the United States, and Bill of Rights in the Rotunda of the National Archives.

US Capitol

Capitol building exterior Washington DC — Center block and dome of the US Capitol

The United States Capitol is one of the most widely recognized symbols of democratic government in the world. Free tours of the Capitol, the Senate chamber and the House of Representatives are available. You need a separate timed-entry ticket to visit each one. These are available at the Visitor Center in the basement of the Capitol.

Since 1800, the Congress has occupied the Capitol. The growing government’s space needs required expansion of the building several times. The original construction was less grandiose than what we see today. In December 1863, the Statue of Freedom was placed on the top of a new cast iron central dome. It stands 287 feet above the east plaza.

Crowds inside Capitol's Rotunda Washington DC — Tours of the Capitol building visit the Rotunda and marvel at the art and the dome.

Art and stonework on inside Capitol dome — Constantinople Brumidi painted “The Apotheosis of Washington” inside the dome in 1865

Across First Street SE is the Library of Congress in the Thomas Jefferson Building.

Library of Congress

The library moved here in 1897 when its collection outgrew the Capitol. See the Great Hall which takes your breath away with its tile mosaics and marble sculptures.

Overhead view of main reading room Library of Congress — Tours have a great view of the main reading room.

This is the world’s largest library with more than 165 million pieces housed in a number of buildings in the area. The library began in 1800. When the Capitol burned in 1814, the original collection was destroyed.

President Thomas Jefferson offered Congress his personal library. It contained 6,487 books, the largest personal collection in the US in 1815. The books were the foundation for today’s great national library. An 1851 fire destroyed over half of the original books. Efforts are underway to replace the destroyed books and reassemble the original Jefferson library.

Circular bookcases of Jefferson library's books — Visit the 3rd floor to see many of the books of the original Jefferson library.

Supreme Court

To the north of the Library of Congress is the Supreme Court. It looks like a Greek temple. Its doors weigh 13,000 pounds.

More Than 2 Days in Washington DC

With more than two days, travel beyond the Washington DC core. We highly recommend these two places.

Arlington National Cemetery

This vast military cemetery is just across the Potomac from the Lincoln Memorial. Wander the cemetery’s 640 acres of headstones, monuments and memorials. They honor individuals and significant historical events in the history of the US. See the eternal flame at President John F Kennedy’s gravesite. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier includes the remains of unknown service members from World Wars I and II and the Korean War. Soldiers keep a 24-hours-a-day, 365 days-a-year vigil at the tomb. See the elaborate changing of the guard ceremony.

Changing of guard ceremony Tomb of Unknown Soldier — The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier has been guarded continuously since 1937.

The trees on the rolling green hills are hundreds of years old. Originally, Robert E Lee owned the area. When Lee and his family left at the onset of the Civil War in 1861, federal troops occupied the area. The first military burial occurred here in 1864. The government compensated Lee for the property after the war.

Steven F Udvar-Hazy Center

Space shuttle Discovery Udvar-Hazy Center — A separate area is dedicated to space travel including the Space Shuttle Discovery.

Many full-size aircraft Udvar-Hazy Center — Full-size aircraft hang from the ceiling and line the floor.

Visit this huge facility the size of 3 aircraft hangers near Washington Dulles International Airport. There are hundreds of aviation and space artifacts. You’ll see pilot and astronaut equipment, the Space Shuttle Discovery, a stealth bomber and even a Concorde airliner. From the second floor, view the restoration lab where technicians work to bring battered aircraft back to life.

Know Before You Go

Are guided tours of Washington DC available?

There are lots of guided tours available. We chose Capital Segway. Our guides were great and the “wheeled” tour was a fun way to get our bearings. I was a newbie to a segway. A quick “how-to” at their base and about 15 minutes “on the road” and I was quite comfortable.

Is there public transit available in Washington DC?

The Washington Metro is the city’s light rail transit system. It reaches all parts of the city. Stops are positioned within a 30 minute walk of most of the major tourist attractions.

Washington DC Attractions Map

Couple in front of fencing north lawn White House

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Road downhill Devil's Tower in background

USA Wyoming

From Devils Tower to Yellowstone – An Epic Wyoming Road Trip

by Valerie Vanr November 26, 2020

Have fun on this Wyoming road trip between two must-see travel destinations, Devils Tower National Monument and Yellowstone National Park. You’ll discover historic places and awe-inspiring scenery along the way.

See the Medicine Wheel, sacred to many North American Indian tribes, located at Medicine Mountain National Historic Landmark. Visit Cody, the home of Buffalo Bill. Check out the 5 museums at Buffalo Bill Center of the West. Enjoy a drink at the cherry wood bar in Cody’s Irma Hotel.

Get ready for an epic Wyoming Road Trip!

Wyoming Itinerary – Road Trip Highlights

This road trip itinerary takes you to all of these amazing places.

Devils Tower National Monument
Medicine Wheel/Medicine Mountain National Historic Landmark
Cody
Buffalo Bill Center of the West
Buffalo Bill Dam
Yellowstone National Park

The route primarily follows US 14. It includes two Wyoming Scenic Drives highlighting the state’s incredible natural beauty.

Wyoming Road Trip Map

Devils Tower National Monument

Devils Tower is a great starting point for any Wyoming Road Trip. Enjoy its short hikes and see this unique place. The tower’s color changes depending on the position of the sun and the weather conditions making it a photographer’s delight.

Be sure to check out our article How to Visit and Hike Devils Tower National Monument to plan and get the most out of your visit to the Tower.

Red sandstone cliffs with Devils Tower in background

Medicine Wheel / Medicine Mountain National Historic Landmark

The Medicine Wheel, on a plateau near the top of Medicine Mountain, is a sacred site to many Native American. This location is one of the best examples of medicine wheels in tribal culture in North America.

Stones in circle with spokes to central hub — Medicine Wheel became a National Historic Landmark in 1970

Pieces of limestone are laid out in a rough circle with cairns at points along the circle and within it. It is about 75 feet across and has 28 spokes at varying intervals from a center cairn. The builders, its original purpose or even its precise age are unknown. Archaeologists believe it is between 300 and 800 years old. Some think it points to the summer solstice sunrise.

The medicine wheel is part of a larger group of related sites and indigenous traditional use areas in the Bighorn Mountains. Today Native American ceremonies are held here. Prayer cloths and offerings are often placed around or in the wheel.

Left prayer bundle stuck into post right animal antlers in cairn — The wheel is an ancient Native American spiritual site. Offerings are left during ceremonies here.

Medicine Wheel Trail

The trailhead is about 23 miles west of Burgess Junction. Travel US 14 Alternate for 21 miles. Forest Service Road 12 leads to the trailhead parking lot.

Laneway to path up slope of mountain to right — Sections of the trail to the medicine wheel are steep.

Walk west for about 1.5 miles to reach the wheel. The return walk takes about an hour. The trail surface is smooth gravel with several steep hills. Bring water and sunscreen. Water is not available on the trail or at the wheel and there is no shade. At an altitude of 9500+ feet the weather is unpredictable at any time of year. Always bring a jacket. There has been snow in the summer.

The walk is worth it. Amazing views of the Bighorn Basin are seen from any spot along the trail. From the wheel you can see the top of Medicine Mountain and the FAA air traffic control radar station.

Couple mountain in background — The peak of Medicine Mountain and Medicine Wheel Trail

Medicine Wheel Passage Scenic Drive

This drive is the section of US14 Alternate from Burgess Junction to the western border of Bighorn National Forest. The panoramic views of the Bighorn and Absoraka Mountains are stunning. The passage is steep and winding with a maximum 10% grade in some places. It is closed from late fall through early spring.

Cody

Buffalo Bill Cody and a group of investors started the town in the 1890s. They understood the area’s potential with its rich soil, incredible natural landscape and abundant wildlife. They knew the location’s closeness to Yellowstone National Park would bring tourists.

Old Trail Town

Visit Cody’s original town site. See the relocated historic buildings from Wyoming’s past including Butch Cassidy’s hideout for his Hole-in-the-Wall gang. These frontier buildings highlight the history and lifestyle of the old west.

Cody Heritage Museum

Learn Cody’s history from its founding to the 1960s in the Charles DeMaris Building, built in 1907.

Main street Cody Irma Hotel on left — The wide streets of Downtown Cody welcome you to explore what Cody has to offer.

Downtown Cody

It’s a great road trip stop for food and drink. Options cater to practically every taste, diet and desire.

Irma Hotel

Visit the dining room for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Check out the cherry wood bar, a gift from Great Britain’s Queen Victoria to Buffalo Bill Cody. He often had tryouts for his Wild West shows just outside its doors.

Dining room tables with bar behind — Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner at the Irma Hotel.

On summer evenings try a unique Cody entertainment option.

Dan Miller’s Cowboy Review

Enjoy family-friendly musical entertainment featuring western, country, gospel and Americana music.

Cody Nite Rodeo

Watch the thrills and spills of real rodeo cowboys in action. This rodeo’s been entertaining crowds since 1938.

Person in front of Center of the West — The center is home to 5 world class museums.

Buffalo Bill Center of the West

You can’t go wrong exploring 5 top-quality museums under one roof and for one admission price. These museums cover all things ‘western’. It’s a great place to spend the entire day!

Buffalo Bill Museum

Model of stadium museum displays background — The museum contains artifacts from his travels and shows, including a model of a Wild West show site.

Learn about the life of Buffalo Bill Cody and his famous Wild West show. He showcased his love for the American West in these huge shows. They toured North America and even Europe in the early 1900’s.

Whitney Western Art Museum

Table, paint brushes, easel, chair Fireplace in background — Frederic Remington’s New York studio, recreated by the Whitney. Remington’s art depicts the classic view of the American West.

The Whitney is one of the finest western art galleries in the United States. It highlights the beauty and culture of the American West.

Plains Indian Museum

Replica person on horse followed by person walking beside dog — Learn the role of dogs and horses when a tribe moved from place to place.

The museum explains many of the Plains people’s culture, heritage and continuing traditions. It is one of the largest collections of Native American art and artifacts in the US.

Cody Firearms Museum

Museum display of guns, western boots and hats — The displays explain the history of many kinds of firearms.

Large room with vertical and horizontal drawers of guns — Cases and cases of different types of firearms are organized by type and manufacturer.

A massive renovation in 2018-19 updated the display of one of the most comprehensive collections of American firearms in the world.

Draper Natural History Museum

Walk through this museum and follow the evolution of humans and nature in the Yellowstone area.

Top: handler and golden eagle. Bottom left-right: Eastern screech owl , red-tailed hawk, bald eagle. — Some of the Draper’s raptors. At the top is Kateri, a golden eagle. Bottom row: left to right are Monte, an eastern screech owl; Isham, a red-tailed hawk; and Jade, a bald eagle.

Draper Museum Raptor Experience

Learn about Wyoming’s most recognized predators. You’ll have the opportunity to meet several of the birds of prey who live in the museum’s raptor sanctuary up close.

Body of water with cliffs at sides — The dam created an 8,000 acre reservoir.

Buffalo Bill State Park

The park surrounds the reservoir created by the Buffalo Bill Dam. Fishing, boating, hiking and camping are all possible in the state park.

Buffalo Bill Dam

Learn about the dam, wildlife in the area and Buffalo Bill’s involvement with the project at the visitor center.

You can walk along the top of the dam. Completed in 1910, it was the tallest concrete dam of its time with a height of 325 feet. Look down to the Shoshone River in the very narrow, steep-sided Shoshone Canyon.

River in bottom of steep-sided canyon — Buffalo Bill Dam sits at the western end of the Shoshone Canyon.

Look down dam to river below — Careful, the base of the dam is 350 feet below. 25 feet were added to the dam’s original 325 feet in the 1980s.

Yellowstone National Park

This is one of the top destinations for travelers in the United States. Yellowstone National Park is a unique mixture of hot springs, geysers, wildlife and natural beauty. It’s the first US National Park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Yellowstone has half of the world’s hydrothermal features. The park has the largest concentration of geysers. Old Faithful is the most famous. Yellowstone’s hot spots are all powered by heat from North America’s largest supervolcano, centered under the park.

Yellowstone's colorful Grand Prismatic hot spring — Grand Prismatic Spring, from the overlook on the Fairy Falls trail, is the largest hot spring in Yellowstone.

Yellowstone provides the rare opportunity to see wild animals in their natural environments. Grizzly bears, wolves, herds of bison and elk are often seen from the park road. Yellowstone’s Lamar Valley has been called the Serengeti of North America.

The park has some of nature’s most stunning landscapes. Snowy mountain peaks of several ranges of the Rocky Mountains make a great backdrop for your photos. See the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and its Lower Falls which are higher than famous Niagara Falls.

Visit this incredible place and you’ll remember it for a lifetime!

More Wyoming Attractions

North eastern Wyoming is full of interesting places to visit. We’ve listed them roughly east to west as you’ll find them along this road trip.

Vore Buffalo Jump

To the east of Devils Tower, visit this sinkhole turned archaeological site. In the early 1970s, archaeologists found about 15 feet of perfectly preserved bison bones. Plains Indian tribes killed bison by stampeding the animals over the cliff. The tribes used all parts of the bison to survive winter.

Left path to building in grassy hole right archaeological dig — The layers of bone and stone artifacts provide information about the lives of the people who stampeded bison into the sinkhole.

Thunder Basin National Grassland

There are plenty of hiking, hunting and fishing opportunities in the grassland south of Devils Tower. The area does not have developed campgrounds but dispersed camping is allowed.

Fort Phil Kearny Historic Site

Learn about the Indian Wars and the Bozeman Trail at Fort Phil Kearny. This replica fort is built to scale on the original site just off I-90 between Buffalo and Sheridan.

Trail End State Historic Site

In Sheridan, visit this elegant 13,700-square foot home. See how the wealthy lived in the first half of the 20^th century.

Forested valley — The Bighorn Basin is surrounded by 6 mountain ranges and offers incredible scenic beauty.

Bighorn National Forest

The 1.1 million-acre forest has miles of streams and rivers for your swimming and fishing pleasure. Hike some of the 1200 miles of trails. Stay at one of the many Forest Service-managed campgrounds or lodges. What a great vacation destination!

Hogback Interpretive Site

See the fantastic views of the open Sheridan Valley at the foot of the Bighorn Mountains. This viewpoint west of Dayton is the perfect place to get out of the car for a good stretch.

Road follows curve down mountain tilted layers of red rock meet mountain base — The red rock in the distance is sedimentary rock from an ancient sea floor which was pushed up when the Bighorn Mountains were formed.

Shell Falls Interpretive Site

Shell Creek drops about 120 feet creating a beautiful waterfall. Explore the interpretive trail about 20 miles southwest of Burgess Junction.

Bighorn Lake

Enjoy fishing the long narrow lake. For several months each year the extreme south end of the lake is dry. Mud-dwelling amphibians and insects take full advantage. They provide an abundant food source for the lake’s many species of fish.

Pryor Mountain Wild Mustang Center

Wild mustangs roam unfenced on the Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range. Learn about these wild horses and their history at the center, just outside of Lovell.

Heart Mountain Relocation Camp

Exhibits explain what life was like for Japanese Americans incarcerated here during World War II. An interpretive trail winds through the original camp structures.

Shoshone National Forest

The forest stretches from the Montana border south to Lander with Yellowstone as its western border covering about 2.4 million acres. Over half of the forest is nationally-designated wilderness area.

Enjoy over 1600 miles of outstanding trails. Visit sagebrush flats, dense forests, pristine lakes, tumbling waterfalls and see snow-covered mountain peaks. Grizzly bears, black bears, elk, deer, bison, bighorn sheep, eagles and peregrine falcons all live here. Guest ranches, lodges, motels, and campgrounds let you stay close by.

Buffalo Bill Scenic Byway

Road through mountain valley — The scenery on the byway is magnificent!

The byway cuts across Shoshone National Forest through the Wapiti Valley. It hugs the North Fork of the Shoshone River, known for its great trout fishing.

Absaroka Mountains

Grassland to jagged cliffs in background — Geologists study the easy-to-reach Absaroka Mountains to see parts of volcanos they can’t get to when they are active.

This jagged mountain range is all that remains of the Absaroka Volcanic Field. Volcanic activity 35 to 55 million year ago created a lava field 10,000 feet thick over 9000 square miles to the east of the Rocky Mountains.

Wyoming Attractions Map

Statue Buffalo Bill, woman, man on bench — When you visit Cody, share a bench with Buffalo Bill!

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Green field with Devils Tower in background

USA Wyoming

How to Visit and Hike Devils Tower National Monument

by Valerie Vanr November 18, 2020

Devils Tower National Monument is a special place and on many travellers’ bucket lists. Some are intrigued by its unique geology. For others it is a sacred place. Some come to find inspiration. Others look forward to the recreational opportunities. Whatever your reason, it is an impressive place to enjoy nature by hiking on the trails around the monument.

Devils Tower Trails

There are 5 interconnected hiking trails at Devils Tower providing amazing views as you hike around the tower.

Tower Trail
Red Beds Trail
Joyner Ridge Trail
South Side Trail
Valley View Trail

Hiking Tips. Wear good walking shoes and take water with you. Watch out for poison ivy and rattlesnakes on all trails. Note: Pets are not allowed on any park trails.

Devils Tower Trail Map

Devils Tower Hiking map — Click on the map to access the full interactive version.

Devils Tower Hikes

Tower Trail

2 pictures of person on Devils Tower hiking trail — The paved Tower Trail has interpretive panels telling the tower’s geology and history.

This 1.3-mile paved loop makes a nice walk around the base of the tower. While not a difficult walk, there are a couple steep sections. It will take about 45 minutes. Interpretive panels along the way explain the tower’s geology and history. Expect to see Native American prayer cloths, cloths or small bundles attached to trees. They represent tribal connections to the tower.

A boulder field of large pieces of the tower surround it. No one in recorded history has seen one of these large pieces fall but small basketball size pieces do fall regularly.

The trail passes through ponderosa pine forest and a boulder field. Scrambling in the boulder field requires a permit.

Tower Trail is the most popular trail in the park. As it can get very busy, consider hiking early in the morning or at the end of the day. A weekday hike also cuts down on the crowds on this trail. Access to the trail is from the visitor center parking lot.

Red Beds Trail

This 3-mile loop trail also takes you around the entire tower and provides panoramic views of the Belle Fourche River Valley. It does have some steep sections with an elevation change of 450 feet and takes about 2.5 hours.

Person in grasslands on Devils Tower hiking trail — Hike through prairie grassland on Red Beds Trail.

See ponderosa pine forest, open prairie and brightly colored mud and sandstone. Walk quietly and you might see a deer.

Deer in meadow around Devils Tower — Deer, prairie dogs and peregrin falcons are some of the wildlife you may see at the tower.

You can reach this trail from the visitor center parking lot. It has connections to all other park trails.

Joyner Ridge Trail

For a quieter trail, try Joyner Ridge. The trail is a 1.5 mile loop following Joyner Ridge and into a ravine. There is some elevation change on this loop.

You’ll see prairie, forest and ravine habitats. The view of the tower from the parking area alone is worth the short drive to the trailhead.

Grassland and pine foreground Devils Tower background

The trailhead is accessed by a gravel road off the main park road. Joyner connects to Red Beds by a 0.6 mile connector.

South Side Trail and Valley View Trail

These 2 short trails are 0.6 mile connector trails to the Red Beds Trail. South Side has a steep uphill section as you meet Red Beds. Valley View is practically flat and runs along the river.

Both trails begin at the amphitheatre near Belle Fourche River Campground and go through the prairie dog town.

Red Beds Trail gets its name from the red muds visible in the Belle Fourche River valley.

Short Hike suggestion

If you are just passing through Devils Tower and are short of time, you can still enjoy a quick hike and get a flavour of the features of the monument. Start at the amphitheatre and walk Valley View Trail to Red Beds. Turn left onto Red Beds and walk to the junction with South Side Trail. Return to the amphitheatre. On this 1.5-mile loop you’ll see the prairie dog town, the Belle Fourche River valley and great views of the tower.

Devils Tower Visitor Center

The visitor center, located at the base of the tower, provides information about the geology and history of the tower. There is a bookstore and souvenir shop. It is open daily from spring through fall. Park staff are available to answer your questions.

Ranger-led programs

Programs are typically offered between Memorial Day and Labor Day. Check at the visitor center for the day’s activities.

Devils Tower Climbing

Can you climb Devils Tower? Yes, climbing is permitted. About 4,000 people climb the tower annually.

People shown climbing Devils Tower — Climbers free climb the tower without mechanical or artificial aid or ladder. They use equipment to protect them in the event of a fall. These climbers have ropes, harnesses and removable pieces of equipment placed in cracks in the tower.

You must register before your climb and check in upon your return. There is no fee to climb other than the standard entrance fee. Climbing is not permitted in the month of June. For full details, check the NPS Climbing Information page.

A technical rock climb takes an average of about 5 hours. Individual climbing times have varied over the years from 18 minutes to 16 hours.

Devils Tower Top

Climbers reaching the top of Devils Tower discover a unique rounded plateau. About the size of a football field, the surface is rocky and covered with grasses and shrubs. Wildlife does live here with small chipmunks scavenging between the boulders.

Devils Tower at Night

Devils Tower is the perfect location for Night Sky viewing. You can visit at night since the park is open 24 hours a day. Situated far away from urban lights, you’ll have a great dark sky experience here. Bring your binoculars, camera and tripod.

Without nearby city lights, Devils Tower is a great place to see the night sky.

How did Devils Tower get its Name?

The Lakotas were the dominant tribe in the area in the 1850s and their name for the tower is Bear Lodge. In 1876, a set of field notes from a geologic expedition were published. They noted the translation of the tribal name as “bad god’s tower” and dubbed the tower “Devil’s Tower”. There have been several attempts to officially change the name to Bear Lodge. However, the name Devils Tower endures and the debate continues.

Devils Tower Formation

The tower is made of a rare igneous rock called phonolite porphyry.

It is a Volcano? This has been the subject of lots of scientific debate. Most geologists agree that it formed from molten material. This magma pushed through sedimentary rock layers but did not break through the earth’s surface and form a volcano. It cooled and crystallized as an intrusion in the sedimentary rock. The softer sedimentary rock has eroded over time exposing the igneous tower we see today. Geologists believe that 1.5 vertical miles of rock were eroded over the fifty million years ago since the magma intrusion.

The tower stands 1280 feet above the Belle Fourche River. Its mineral composition allows us to see it as different colors depending on the position of the sun and the weather conditions.

Devils Tower Camping

There are two campgrounds near Devils Tower that are open seasonally.

Belle Fourche River Campground

This campground is located inside the park. Sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis. The RV and tent sites each have a grill, picnic table and nearby potable water. There are no serviced campsites. Restrooms are available but no showers or laundry facilities exist.

Campground and river foreground Devils Tower background — Devils Tower KOA is right beside the tower in the Belle Fourche River Valley

Devils Tower KOA (Kampground of America)

This campground is adjacent to the park entrance. It has fully serviced RV sites, tent sites and cabin-style lodging with restrooms, showers and laundry facilities. We stayed here.

Devils Tower Movie

Wasn’t Devils Tower in a Hollywood movie?
Yes. Steven Spielberg utilized Devils Tower prominently in his movie “Close Encounters of the Third Kind” (1977). The movie became a hit and is now a part of cultural lore. Devils Tower KOA campground shows this movie every single night.

After watching Close Encounters, you may find yourself looking at mashed potatoes in a totally different way.

Person making a tower from mashed potatoes — Try making a mashed potato tower after watching Close Enounters at Devils Tower KOA.

Know Before You Go

Directions to Devils Tower

The tower is in the northeast corner of Wyoming in the Black Hills National Forest about 30 miles from the South Dakota border.

Coming from the west, the entrance station is 33 miles northeast of Moorecroft WY via US Hwy 14/WY24. From the east, it is 27 miles northwest of Sundance WY via US Hwy 14/WY24 and 52 miles southwest of Belle Fourche SD via SC34/WY24.

The nearest large regional airport is in Rapid City, South Dakota.

Is Devils Tower open year round?

Yes it is open year round, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

What is the Best time to visit Devils Tower?

You can visit anytime but most visitors come in June, July and August. Summer weekends are the most popular so you may want to try to schedule a weekday summer visit. If you want to avoid crowds and cold temperatures, visit in the late Spring or early Fall. May is the rainiest month at Devils Tower.

How long do you need to visit?

You can visit the monument for a couple hours and see all the highlights (Visitor Center and the Tower Trail) or for a couple days, taking things more leisurely and enjoying multiple hikes.

Is there food available in the park?

No. There are no food concessions or camp store within Devils Tower. Full services are available just outside the park entrance.

Devils Tower Trading Post just outside park

Where Can I Park at Devils Tower?

Parking at Devils Tower is very difficult in the summer and the parking lots are often full from 10am to 3pm. The main parking area is the visitor center lot, which is 3 miles from the entrance.

If that lot is full, park in the picnic area lot or in the gravel parking lot at Joyner’s Ridge Trailhead. You can walk from these alternate parking lots to the visitor center via the connector trails and the Red Beds Trail.

If you are travelling in an RV or pulling a trailer and your unit length is over 19 feet, your best option is to park in the long vehicle parking lot near the picnic area.

Map of Devils Tower

Couple standing in meadow Devils Tower in background — Devils Tower stands alone in the relatively flat countryside.

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Canada Ontario

Charming Rideau Canal Towns – A Scenic Road Trip to Ottawa

by Valerie Vanr November 16, 2020

Explore charming towns along the historic Rideau Canal on this road trip to Ottawa. You’ll see stunning scenery, quaint towns and historic places. Many of the towns were founded in the early 19^th century directly as a result of the building of the Rideau Canal.

The locks and the beautiful stone buildings have survived the test of time. Visit the museums, stores and tourist attractions which keep the buildings relevant in the 21^st century. See a couple lockstations on Ontario’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The landscape of beautiful lakes, rivers and woods along the route provides the perfect backdrop for this fantastic road trip. Buckle up and enjoy these must-see places!

Vehicle on road surrounded by coloured trees

Ottawa Road Trip Itinerary

This itinerary takes you from Kingston to Ottawa, stopping at these lovely places.

Jones Falls Lockstation
Chaffey’s Lock
Perth
Smiths Falls
Merrickville
Ottawa

Map showing road trip route to Ottawa — Ottawa Road Trip Map

This scenic road trip follows much of the historic Rideau Canal.

Rideau Canal UNESCO World Heritage Site

The canal runs from Kingston to Ottawa. It links 16 lakes, the Rideau and Cataraqui Rivers and 19 kilometres of man-made waterway. There are 24 lockstations along the route controlling 47 locks. You can visit all of them. Most of the locks operate by hand-cranking, as they have since the canal opened in 1832.

Person turning hand crank to open lock door behind — Most of the locks are still operated by manually cranking the lock doors open and closed.

The canal was awarded a UNESCO World Heritage designation in 2007 in recognition of being the only 19^th century canal in North America operating along its entire original length with most of the original structures still in place. Today, boats cruise leisurely up and down the 200 kilometre-long canal.

In the 1820s tensions still existed between Great Britain and the United States over control of North America. Built between 1826 and 1832 as a secure military supply route, the canal included many fortified buildings. Many of these buildings still stand and are open to the public for tours.

Rideau Canal Locks and Bytown Museum — The Ottawa Locks are about 2 km from where the Rideau River meets the Ottawa River at Rideau Falls.

Rivers and lakes were the highways of the 19^th century and the canal prospered in that role. The waterway became very busy, carrying settlers to their new homes and transporting products to market from the business enterprises along its route. When the railway arrived in the area, in the mid to late 19^th century, the canal’s use by industry slowed significantly.

Parks Canada maintains and operates the Rideau Canal for everyone to enjoy, whether by water or by land.

The canal and locks are central to the history of many of the towns on this road trip and continue to be important to their economic health.

Jones Falls Lockstation

This is a perfect picnic stop and a great place to learn more about the Rideau Canal. Leave your car at the Parks Canada parking lot on Road 11 and walk the trail to the locks and the Stone Arch Dam. The loop is about 1.5 kilometres. It’s a nice way to spend an hour.

On your walk you’ll pass 2 sets of locks, Sweeney House, the penstocks to the powerhouse and the Stone Arch Dam. The blacksmith shop on the other side of the waterway is reachable by trails from both sets of locks.

Rideau Canal Locks 39-42

Here at Jones Falls there are 2 sets of locks with 3 locks in the first flight and a single lock a short distance away.

Lower lock door with upper door in background — There are 3 locks in the first flight at Jones Falls.

Lock doors opening to 3 kayakers — The 4th lock at Jones Falls is set apart from the flight. Water craft of all kinds use the locks.

Blacksmith Shop

Stone building mid picture, kayakers foreground — Follow the trail from either set of locks to reach this former blacksmith shop.

The small building on the other side of the waterway has thick stone walls and a metal roof making it a defendable building in case of armed attack. The hearth is in the center of the shop which is an unusual position for a blacksmith’s forge. Built in 1843, a blacksmith operated here until 1933.

Sweeney House

This stone building was both the lockmaster’s home and a fortification. Built in the late 1830s, it also has thick walls, a metal roof and gun slits on all sides. Security was always on the mind of the British Army as tensions continued after the war of 1812.

Penstocks and Powerhouse

Three huge wooden tubes at the west end of the dam carry water from Sand Lake above the dam to the powerhouse below. You can also see the powerhouse from Jones Falls Bay across from the lower entry into the locks. The powerhouse, constructed in 1947, provides power to the regional power grid.

Stone Arch Dam

The stone dam is almost 20 metres high and about 100 metres across. When completed in 1831, it was the highest dam in North America. Setting the blocks vertically rather than horizontally increased the stability of the dam. Oxen cart carried the blocks from the quarry 10 kilometres away to Jones Falls. The muddy cart roads of early 1800s Canada made that a difficult and strenuous trip.

Chaffey’s Lock

Person in front of waterway to mill at side — Enjoy the picnic area between the main canal and the overflow channel

The current location of Rideau Canal Lock 37 is where Samuel Chaffey set up an extensive milling operation starting in 1820. He died in 1827. The British Army purchased the operation and demolished the mill, building the lock in its place. The low dam in line with the lock gate to the west of the main channel helps regulate the flow of water especially during the spring flood season. The 1872 mill beside the dam is now a private residence.

Lockmaster’s House Museum

2-storey stone building Chaffey's Lock Museum

Learn about the history of the lock and the village at the museum in the former lockmaster’s house. The building was built around 1845 as fortified housing for the lockmaster and his family. The second storey was added in the late 19^th century. It was a residence until the 1960s.

Perth

This town is a road trip gem. There is something here for everyone.

For history buffs, learn about the town’s founding and the development of the Tay Canal from historical markers and plaques throughout town.

Barn holding reproduction of large ring of cheese — The 22,000-lb block of cheese made by Perth dairy farmers in 1893 went to the Chicago World Fair.

Perth began as a military settlement of emigrants from Scotland, England and Ireland and discharged soldiers after the War of 1812. By 1816, the population had grown to about 1500 people. In 1822 the town of Perth became the county seat.

For architecture lovers, see many beautiful stone buildings which have stood the test of time.

Matheson House/Perth Museum

Perth Museum also Matheson House — Originally the home of Roderick Matheson, one of Canada’s first senators, it is a National Historic Site and the Perth Museum.

Exhibits in the museum highlight the history of Perth. Roderick Matheson had the sandstone home built in 1840. The parlour, dining room, drawing room and kitchen are restored and furnished reflecting the Matheson’s 1840s lifestyle.

Town Hall

The beautiful 1863 town hall is open daily for town business. The bell and clock tower were added in 1874.

Fire Hall

Small building with tower — This building was used as a fire hall until the 1940s.

This former fire hall and tower are now a part of the local library. The engine house was built in 1855. The second storey and tower were added in 1883.

Code’s Mill and Kinivie

Code’s Mill is an events facility with a restaurant, pub and specialty shops as well. In the late 1800’s, T.A Code operated a very successful woollen mill from the building. He built the nearby Edwardian mansion, Kinivie, in the early 1900s. Steam, carried through underground pipes from the mill, heated the home in winter.

For outdoor enthusiasts, there are trails and parks along the Tay Canal and throughout town. Canoe and kayak rentals are available.

Tay Canal

Water access was the key to a town’s prosperity in the early 19^th century. This prompted Perth residents to fund the construction of a canal in 1834 to connect Perth to the new Rideau Canal.

This first canal fell into disrepair over the next 50 years due to the high cost of maintenance. It was eventually abandoned. Local mining and manufacturing interests petitioned government for a proper shipping canal. Their successful lobbying led to federal funding in the 1880s to alter, deepen and widen the Tay Canal, bringing it back into the Rideau system in 1890.

Stewart Park

Reflection of bridge and trees in river — Stewart Park is a beautiful tranquil spot.

The slow moving waters of the Tay and Little Tay Rivers meandering through the park create mirrors for amazing photographs. This is a great place for a picnic or to just get out of the car and stretch your legs. The Stewart family donated the land for this park behind the town hall in the 1920s.

Tay River Trail

The trail follows the Tay River along a former portage route. Walk upstream toward Bobs Lake or downstream to where the river meets Lower Rideau Lake at the Lower Beveridges lockstations on the Rideau Canal.

Last Duel Park

The 27-acre park along the Tay River has a number of serviced campsites, a public boat dock and launch and a picnic area with a shelter. The campground is generally open from mid-May to mid-October weather permitting. The last fatal duel in Upper Canada occurred here in 1833.

Smiths Falls

The Rideau River dropped about 11 metres in under a half kilometre here before the canal was built. The first land grant in the area went to Lt. Thomas Smyth in 1786. Smyth capitalized on the falls and built a small mill. The vibrant town of Smiths Falls grew around his mill. The falls were a major obstacle to boat traffic on the Rideau River. The original mill was purchased, demolished and replaced by a flight of 3 locks and a dam. A separate lock is upstream at the end of the basin created by the dam.

New hydraulic lock beside old locks — The new hydraulic combined lock replaced the old flight of 3 locks.

Rideau Canal Lock 29a Combined

This is one of the few automated locks on the Rideau Canal today. Most of the other canal locks are operated manually. Built in the early 1970s, just north of the first flight of 3 locks, it allows boat traffic to pass under the low level bridge. The old locks remain in place beside the new one. You’ll immediately notice the differences.

Rideau Canal Visitor Centre

The former grist mill, built in 1830, has 3 floors of displays and artefacts about the Rideau Canal. You can get a panoramic view of the canal and Smiths Falls from the top floor.

There is mooring available for boats to the southwest of the combined lock adjacent to a small serviced campground and Victoria Park.

2 boats moored foreground Smiths Falls watertower background — There are lots of spots to moor beside Victoria Park in Smiths Falls.

Harvard Trainer plane right side busy playground equipment — The Harvard Trainer Memorial was added to Victoria Park in 1967.

Victoria Park

Enjoy the gardens, paths, wading pool, children’s playground and picnic areas. The mounted aircraft is a Harvard Trainer. It is a memorial to RCAF members who died in WWII.

Railway Museum of Eastern Ontario

Rail passenger car and engine — The museum’s collection includes railway rolling stock.

The 1912/13 station displays railway memorabilia and the adjacent rail yard holds a collection of historic rolling stock. The museum opened in 1985, 6 years after Canadian Norther Railway abandoned the track.

Heritage House Museum

The museum offers exhibitions, art shows, day camps, educational programs and more. Some rooms are decorated to reflect the home’s heyday when Joshua Bates built it in 1860. His grist and saw mills were nearby, built in the 1850’s adjacent to the Old Slys locks.

Merrickville

Be sure to tour town, often called the Jewel of the Rideau, to see the many beautiful heritage buildings and fun shops.

People with ice cream in front of ice cream shop — Enjoy a sweet treat from the Downtowne Ice Cream Shoppe.

The first mill on the Rideau River was built here in about 1790. The town didn’t really prosper until the mill was purchased by William Merrick who set up both grist and lumber mills. The locks bypassed the mills so, unlike other mill owners on the canal route, Merrick’s mills continued to operate long after the locks were in operation.

By 1851 the improved transportation provided by the canal helped Merrickville develop into the area’s industrial center. Soon after, when the railway arrived in nearby Smiths Falls, the fortunes of Merrickville began to slow but a woollen mill operated here until 1954.

Rideau Canal Locks 21 – 23

Couple standing in front of Merrickville lock — We’re standing on the gate of the westernmost Merrickville Lock.

Still water of lock basin Merrickville — Picnic tables beside the calm basin are a great place to enjoy a break.

Small basins separate these three locks. The engineers used the natural landscape and minimized the amount of trenching needed, saving both time and money.

Blockhouse Museum

The local historical society operates the museum in this former blockhouse. It is the largest blockhouse built on the Rideau Canal. The blockhouse provided a defendable mustering point for local militia and acted as a supply depot. The military used it in the late 1830s and again in 1846, when tensions with the Americans were high. There was never an attack on the canal. It was also the lockmaster’s home.

Iron fences in front of stone walled mill ruin — This is all that is left of Merrickville’s prosperous mills.

Merrickville Mill Ruins

Ruins of some of the abandoned mill buildings are on the small island beside the locks.

Merrickville Power Generation

The water power that ran the mills provides power to the regional power grid today. The current hydroelectric generator was installed in 1993. The first generator is on display by the mill ruins. Starting in 1915, it provided the electricity for the mills, a foundry and the village.

Ottawa

About 5 kilometres northeast of Merrickville, you enter the city of Ottawa, a sprawling municipality formed in 2001. Ottawa has lots of things for you to see and do. Here are several sites along the Rideau in the city that are worth a look.

Prince of Wales Falls and Hogs Back Lockstation

The Rideau Canal and the Rideau River follow separate routes to the Ottawa River from here. Multi-use paths follow both all the way to the Ottawa. There are walking trails around the locks, falls and dam.

Still water canal with side paths — The canal diverges from the river here at Hogs Back Lockstation.

These beautiful falls looked very different two hundred years ago. The area was dense forest and the falls were spectacular with 3 sets of rapids. One ridge looked like the back of a pig so gained the name Hogs Back. The falls were renamed Prince of Wales Falls when the ridge could no longer be seen. The lockstation nearby kept the name.

Prince of Wales Falls Ottawa — See the beautiful falls from many points on the cycling and walking paths.

The construction of the canal completely changed the structure of the falls. Their width narrowed. The dam controlled the flow of water over the falls. Every decade between 1840 and 1940 saw changes made to the structures here due to damage from ice, drifting wood and flooding. The last major reconstruction was in the 1970’s until the swing bridge and roadway were rehabilitated in 2019/20. Even with the many changes over the generations, the falls remain impressive.

Rideau Canal Skateway

Hartwells Locks are at the southern end of the famous Rideau Canal Skateway. The skateway is a 7.8 kilometre skating rink created and maintained each year by the National Capital Commission. Every winter the canal’s water level is lowered. When a solid 30cm of ice forms, the world’s largest and second longest skating rink opens for everyone’s use and enjoyment. You can warm up at rest areas along its length, where there are toasty fires, hot drinks and tasty snacks. Winter 2019/2020 was the skateway’s 50^th season.

Chateau Laurier behind Ottawa Locks — Chateau Laurier opened above the Ottawa Locks in June 1912.

Rideau Canal Locks 1 to 8

There are 8 locks at the Ottawa River, the highest and longest single set on the Rideau Canal. The total height change is 24 metres. The locks are in the valley between the beautiful Chateau Laurier and the Canadian Parliament Buildings.

Bytown Museum

Learn about the history of Ottawa through Bytown Museum’s permanent and temporary exhibits. There are Victorian timepieces, tools used to build the Rideau Canal and even antique children’s toys. Activities for the whole family explain Ottawa’s Bytown beginning, its lumberjack past, choice as Canada’s capital and evolution into today’s vibrant city.

The building is the oldest stone building in Ottawa. It began as a storage depot for supplies, gunpowder and materials for constructing the Rideau Canal and for the canal’s administration offices.

Rideau Falls

Dam and waterfalls Ottawa — This is one half of Rideau Falls. The second falls are behind Green Island at the top right of this picture.

The Rideau River drops 9 metres over these beautiful, twin waterfalls to the Ottawa River. Green Island separates the two falls. The falls and the island are part of the almost 3 hectare Rideau Falls Park. The park is the home of several monuments including the Commonwealth Air Force Memorial and the National Artillery Monument. Many embassies as well as the residences of the governor general and the prime minister are nearby.

In the 1800’s mills and industry used the water’s power here, producing products including flour, timber, woollen cloth and liquor. Today power is provided to the regional power grid. When Rideau Falls Park was developed in the 1950s, the factories and mills were demolished.

Know before You Go

What is the best time to visit the Rideau Canal?

You can take this scenic road trip any time. All locks are accessible by road. A summer visit will ensure that you see boats using the locks with the lockmaster and personnel turning the hand cranks to raise and lower water levels and open lock doors.

Can I cruise the Rideau Canal by boat?

Yes. The Parks Canada website provides detailed information you’ll need to travel the canal by boat. The locks are open for boat passage from Victoria Day (mid-May) to Thanksgiving (mid-October). Many lockmasters will allow overnight mooring at lockstations. Confirm with individual lockmasters. Waterway with boats docked at sides

Is there camping at the Rideau Locks? Can I stay at a lockstation?

Yes. Most, though not all, offer some form of accommodation. Some have tent campsites, restored historic accommodations, or a one-of-a-kind oTENTik, a cross between a tent and a cabin. For details see the Parks Canada Camping and Accommodations page. Reservations are not required. Space is allocated on a first-come, first-served basis at the discretion of the lockmaster.

Are there hiking trails along the Rideau Canal?

Yes. A 387-km network of interconnected hiking trails, called the Rideau Trail, runs between Kingston and Ottawa generally following the canal and its tributary waters. See the Rideau Trail Association’s Trail Map page for more information.

Ottawa Road Trip Map

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Canada Ontario

6 Best Hiking Trails in Algonquin Park

by Valerie Vanr November 8, 2020

Algonquin Park is Ontario’s oldest and largest Provincial Park. There’s an abundance of hiking opportunities to choose from. Trailheads for 15 trails are on the main Highway 60 Parkway Corridor making it easy to get to great hiking.

Here are the 6 best hikes. These trails cover all of the different environments of Algonquin providing you with a great hiking itinerary.

Best Trails in Algonquin Park

Spruce Bog Boardwalk
Whiskey Rapids Trail
Two Rivers Trail
Hemlock Bluff Trail
Centennial Ridges Trail
Mizzy Lake Trail

Spruce Bog Boardwalk

Meandering creek through bog mats — Sunday Creek Bog shows a spruce bog’s main features: a meandering creek, 2 broad mats of Leatherleaf at the sides of the creek and Black Spruce on the far side.

This 1.5 km barrier-free loop has several sections of boardwalk and is a nice, easy 45-minute walk. You’ll cross two spruce bogs along the way. This is a great way to learn about what a bog is, how it changes over time and how plants and animals are responsible for the changes.

You may even see a Pitcher Plant. This plant overcomes the lack of nutrients in the bog by luring insects into its “pitchers”. The pitcher holds a small amount of water and enzymes. The insects drown in the water and are broken down into proteins which the plant converts to plant proteins to survive.

Person on boardwalk through Spruce Bog Algonquin Park

Creek foreground trail to forest background

The trailhead is 42.5 km from the west gate.

Whiskey Rapids Trail

Enjoy a walk along the river on this 2.1 km loop. The hike is good for all skill levels and will take about 1.5 hours. You’ll walk along the Oxtongue River for much of the trail and see great views of Whiskey Rapids.

Whiskey Rapids through Algonquin Park forest — Whiskey Rapids

Oxtonque River with trees on all sides — Oxtonque River from the Whiskey Rapids Trail

There are 7 kinds of fish in this part of the Oxtongue River. In total 54 different species of fish have been recorded in Algonquin Park. Fishing does require a license. The park is in Fisheries Management Zone 15 (FMZ 15). Check for specific regulations by reviewing the Ontario Recreational Fishing Regulations summary before your trip to confirm open seasons, catch and possession limits and exception details.

The trailhead is 7.2 km from the west gate. The trail is prone to flooding and may be closed in the spring months.

Two Rivers Trail

The trail is a 2.3 kilometre loop for all skill levels. Walk for about 1.5 hours through a young forest with an easy climb to the top of a cliff overlooking the North Madawaska River.

Person with camera on North Madawaska River and forest — View from clifftop to North Madawaska River

Person on clifftop Two Rivers Trail — Walking the clifftop on the Two Rivers Trail

This section of forest has two different generations of tree species: the quicker growing aspen and birch, and the slower pine and spruce. Each tree species bring different wildlife to the forest. While this forest may be young, its mix of trees provides for a wealth of wildlife.

The trailhead is 31 km from the west gate. Groups with small children and/or pets should take care at the cliff edge.

Hemlock Bluff Trail

Walk a 3.5 km loop through mixed forest with large stands of hemlock and see beautiful views of Jack Lake. It is hilly and takes about 2 hours. The trail is good for all skill levels.

Foreground Jack Lake with trees in distance — Jack Lake from Hemlock Bluff Trail

Learn about the important findings of the many research programs carried out here. The park continues to provide scientists a field study area. Canada’s first nature interpretation program started here in the 1930’s and is still operating today.

The trailhead is 27.2 km from the west gate.

Centennial Ridges Trail

Couple on ridge overlooking Whitefish Lake Algonquin Park — Whitefish Lake from Centennial Ridges Trail

This is a strenuous but rewarding 10.4 km loop. You’ll see spectacular views from two high ridges. A fit walker can cover it in 4 hours but many will enjoy a more leisurely day hike of about 6 hours. If that is more time than you can spare, try walking only the last 2 km (between posts 13a and 9) as an “out and back” trail of 4 km. Our walk was about 2 hours and the views of Whitefish Lake were incredible.

You’ll learn about the planners, superintendents, rangers, researchers and summer employees who have made their mark in the world because of their interaction with Algonquin Park. By the way, the trail was opened in 1993 as part of the park’s centennial celebrations.

Reflection of tree in Rutter Lake Algonquin Park — Rutter Lake from Centennial Ridges Trail

Cove on Whitefish Lake from Centennial Ridges Trail

The trailhead is 37.6 km from the west gate. Be sure to wear sturdy, ankle-supporting footwear. Take care at cliff tops. There are no fences to keep you from a fatal fall.

Mizzy Lake Trail

The l0.8 km loop trail is level for the most part but the trail surface is uneven. It often becomes wet and muddy turning it into a challenging hike. Expect a 6 hour hike, especially if it is wet. You will visit 9 ponds and small lakes and park wildlife is often seen here.

Algonquin Park is home to over 50 types of mammals, 30 reptiles and amphibians and 144 species of breeding birds. More wildlife is seen each year along the Parkway Corridor than in the backcountry of the park. Moose viewing is best in May and June along the highway as they come to drink the slightly salty water in the roadside ditches.

The trailhead is 15.4 km from the west gate. Pets are not allowed. Be sure you are wearing boots to help with the mud and maybe have a dry pair of socks waiting for you at the end of your hike.

Algonquin Park Map

This Algonquin Park Trails Map shows all of the 15 trails along the highway corridor.

Hiking Trails in Algonquin Park

In total there are 15 interpretive trails along the Parkway Corridor.

Each trail has numbered posts along its length corresponding to sections in the trail guides found at each trailhead. Each trail introduces you to some feature of the park. The following chart provides information about all of these corridor trails. The trailhead locations are noted as kilometres from the west gate. There are also trails in the northern and eastern sides of Algonquin.

	Trail	Length (km)	Difficulty	Time (hr)	At km
1	Whiskey Rapids	2.1	Moderate	1.5	7.2
2	Hardwood Lookout	1.0	Moderate	0.75	13.8
3	Mizzy Lake	10.8	Difficult	6	15.4
4	Peck Lake	2.3	Moderate	1.5	19.2
5	Track & Tower	7.5	Difficult	4	24
6	Hemlock Bluff	3.5	Moderate	2	27.2
7	Bat Lake	5.8	Moderate	3.5	30.8
8	Two Rivers	2.3	Moderate	1.5	31
9	Centennial Ridges	10.4	Difficult	6	37.6
10	Booth’s Rock	5.1	Difficult	3	40.3
11	Lookout	2.1	Difficult	1	39.7
12	Big Pines	2.9	Moderate	2	40.3
13	Spruce Bog Boardwalk	1.5	Easy	0.75	42.5
14	Beaver Pond	2.0	Moderate	1.5	45.2
15	Algonquin Logging Museum	1.3	Easy	1	54.5

Person beside signpost on Whiskey River Trail — Sign post on the Whiskey River Trail

Algonquin Park Itinerary

Enjoy a 1, 2 or even a 3-day trip hiking in Algonquin Park.

Day 1. Start your morning at the Spruce Bog Boardwalk. This is a nice easy trail, especially for families. Later, head over to Centennial Ridges Trail to hike the loop. Remember, you can shorten this loop by just hiking up to the ridge viewpoint and back.

Day 2. Begin your day hiking the river loop at Whiskey Rapids. After that, hike up through the cliffs and forests of either Two Rivers Trail or Hemlock Bluff Trail. If you have the energy, do both!

Day 3. With an additional day, dedicate this entire day to hiking the challenging Mizzy Lake Trail where you’ll be sure to spot wildlife.

Jeep, camper picnic table Lake of Two Rivers Campground — Camping at Lake of Two Rivers Campground

Couple in canoe on North Madawaska River — Hunting for fish on the North Madawaska River

Algonquin Park Reservations

Algonquin Park is a busy and popular park in the summer. Even with over 1900 campsites, the park fills up quickly. Book early!

The Ontario Parks Reservation System accepts reservations up to 5 months in advance of your arrival date (meaning book February 1st to make a reservation for July 1st)

Know Before You Go

What is the best campground in Algonquin Park?

Lake of Two Rivers and Mew Lake Campgrounds are the best campsites. Each is adjacent to Highway 60 and in walking distance of Two Rivers Store. Both have beach access, flush toilets, laundry, showers, electrical and wheelchair accessible sites. Lake of Two Rivers is the oldest and best known and one of the larger campgrounds with 241 sites. Mew has 131 and has a section which is radio/pet free.

Are there bike trails in Algonquin Park?

The Old Railway Bike Trail is 16 km and follows the bed of the historic Ottawa, Arnprior & Parry Sound Railway from Rock Lake to near Cache Lake. It is accessible from the campgrounds between 30 and 40 kilometres from the west gate. In the winter skiers, snowshoers and fat-bikers use the trail.
Minnesing Bike Trail is challenging with loops of 4.7 to 23.4 kilometres. This is rugged mountain biking with hilly, often muddy, rock, root and obstacle-filled terrain. The trailhead is 23 kilometres from the west gate.

Are there bike rentals in Algonquin Park?

Yes. Bikes are available to rent at Two Rivers Store.

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Utah USA

One Day in Salt Lake City

by Valerie Vanr October 25, 2020

Are you passing through Salt Lake City for business or vacation? Take a day and explore this beautiful modern capital city. Members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints founded the city over 150 years ago. Today it is their worldwide headquarters.

See outstanding architecture and lush parks, all on a walk through downtown Temple Square and Capitol Hill, as you learn about the Latter-day Saints and Utah government. Outside of downtown, you can easily spend a day at “This is the Place” Heritage Park.

Whatever you choose to do, you’ll have a great day in Salt Lake City!

Salt Lake City Itinerary

The best way to explore downtown Salt Lake City is on foot. Here is a walking route hitting the highlights of Temple Square and Capitol Hill.

Brigham Young Monument
Salt Lake Temple
Salt Lake City Tabernacle
Church History Museum
Pioneer Memorial Museum
Utah State Capitol Building
Memory Grove Park
Beehive House and Lion House

Beyond downtown, check out Library Square and This is the Place Heritage Park where there is no shortage of impressive architecture, history and kid-friendly activities.

Map of Downtown Salt Lake City

Temple Square

It is 10-acres in size in downtown Salt Lake City and is owned by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Its members settled in the Salt Lake Valley starting in 1847 after fleeing religious persecution in several eastern states. Temple Square became and remains the religious center of their community.

Between 1847 and 1869, 70,000 people traveled to the valley beginning the successful city we see today. Latter-day Saints also established settlements in the future states of California, Nevada, Idaho, Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and Wyoming representing one of the greatest waves of 19^th-century Western pioneering.

There are several must-sees on a visit to Temple Square.

Salt Lake City Temple and reflecting pool — The reflecting pool in the center of Temple Square mirrors the temple perfectly.

Brigham Young Monument

This is the perfect place to start your walking tour. This bronze monument honours Brigham Young who led church pioneers to the Salt Lake Valley. It also recognizes first peoples and fur traders who came before the pioneers.

Salt Lake Temple

Sacred rites and ceremonies such as marriage are held in the temple which was built between 1853 and 1893. The temple is not open to the general public. Ox-drawn wagons hauled the granite to build the temple 23 miles from Little Cottonwood Canyon. The walls are 9 feet thick at their base narrowing to 6 feet at the top. The center tower is 210 feet high and a statue of the angel Moroni, a symbol of faith in the church, sits on top.

Salt Lake City Tabernacle

The world-renowned Mormon Tabernacle Choir, founded in 1847, is based here. The tabernacle’s construction took 12 years starting in 1863. The first organ contained 700 pipes and has been rebuilt many times. The current organ has 11,623 pipes and is one of the largest pipe organs in the world.

Church History Museum

This free museum, open 6 days a week, displays artworks, artifacts, photographs and much more, explaining the founding and history of the church.

Beehive House

The house is named for its cupola topped with a beehive. It is built of stuccoed adobe and has a two-story veranda and an observatory. Brigham Young used it as residence, office and reception area for official visitors in his roles as president of the church and Utah’s first territorial governor.

Lion House

Lion House was built in 1855 to accommodate Young’s large family. While the number is not confirmed, it is said he had over 50 wives in his lifetime and over 40 children survived to adulthood. Young died in August 1877. The church has not sanctioned polygamy since 1890.

As you walk the Temple Square area, you may want to check out these other interesting sites.

Assembly Hall

The stunning gothic revival building you see south of the tabernacle is Assembly Hall, completed in 1880. This building was built from the granite left over from the construction of the Salt Lake Temple. This is a place of worship and visitors are welcome. It holds almost 2,000 people and there are 100 seats in the choir. It is 68 feet wide, 120 feet long and the center tower is 130 feet high.

Handcart Pioneer Monument

Sculpture family pulling cart of possessions — Many Latter-day Saint pioneers pulled their possessions behind them in wooden handcarts.

You’ll find this brass monument of a family pulling a handcart adjacent to Assembly Hall. It is a tribute to the nearly 3,000 pioneers who walked the 1350-mile trek from Iowa with all their possessions in handmade, all-wood handcarts. They could not afford ox-drawn wagons so they personally hauled their handcarts the entire route. The gruelling trek took around 250 lives.

Pioneer Log Home

The small log cabin was built in 1847 and moved to its current spot next to the Church History Museum. It is one of two surviving pioneer homes in Salt Lake City. This was the home of Osmyn and Mary Deuel who where among the most prosperous of the first settlers. It is furnished as you’d have seen it when visiting the Deuel’s in 1847.

Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints Conference Center

Conference Center Salt Lake City — The conference center’s main auditorium is large enough to hold two 747s side by side.

The semi-annual church general conference and other major church events are held in this huge conference center just north of Temple Square. It opened in 2000. The main auditorium alone seats 21,000 people.

Brigham Young Family Memorial Cemetery

Statue of man teaching 2 childen plus live female — Bronze statue depicts Brigham Young teaching two of his children using both the Book of Mormon and the Bible

The gravesite of Brigham Young is a little off the beaten path, to the east of Temple Square. The cemetery is dedicated to the more than 6,000 Latter-day Saint pioneers who died making the journey to Utah between 1847 and 1869. This is a peaceful spot in the middle of the city.

Capitol Hill is a short uphill walk from Temple Square.

Capitol Hill

Utah became a territory of the United States in 1850. It was three decades later, as work was underway toward statehood, that a spot for a proper capitol building was determined. The city donated about 20 acres of land in 1888 for a new statehouse. Over time more land was purchased for monuments and buildings. The seat of Utah government is now about 40 acres.

There are full tours of Capitol Hill available through the Utah State Capitol’s website. The grounds of the capitol are great to wander but here are several places you should be sure to see.

Pioneer Memorial Museum

Antique steam-powered fire pumper — This horse-drawn, steam-powered fire pumper was built in 1902 by the American Fire Engine Company, Seneca Falls, NY. One of many artifacts at the Pioneer Memorial Museum.

Artifacts celebrating Utah’s pioneer heritage fill this 6-floor museum. There is no admission fee, so just take a peak if you are short on time. You’ll be surprised by the detail and amount of stuff you see.

Utah State Capitol Building

Person standing on steps of Capitol Salt Lake City — The Utah Capitol has 52 columns, each 32 feet tall by 3.5 feet in diameter.

Utah became a state on January 4, 1896 but it was 1911 before funding was obtained to construct the Capitol Building. It contains 2 legislative chambers, a ceremonial Supreme Court chamber and working offices for top state officials. The Senate, House and other state offices are in separate buildings on Capitol Hill.

You can see Council Hall and White Memorial Chapel just across the street from the front of the Capitol Building.

Council Hall

The hall was built in the early 1860’s and used as City Hall and the territorial seat of government. Originally located downtown, Salt Lake City outgrew the building in the late 1800s. It was dismantled in 1960 and moved to its current location. Today, it is the headquarters of the Utah Office of Tourism.

White Memorial Chapel

White Chapel Salt Lake City — Now a non-denominational chapel this was built by the Latter-day Saints as a house of worship.

This building was also originally located elsewhere and moved here. Latter-day Saints built it in 1883 for worship services. In 1976 it was dismantled and rebuilt here on land donated by the state to honor the country’s 200^th anniversary. It is now a non-denomination chapel.

To the east of Capitol Hill is a beautiful park in the valley along City Creek.

Memory Grove Park

The first memorial which honours the fallen soldiers of World War One was created in the 1920s. Now there are memorials to veterans of many conflicts here. The Meditation Chapel is a perfect spot to sit and gaze over the well-maintained park.

Person taking photo of chapel across Memory Grove Park — Memory Grove Park’s paths take you past many monuments like Meditation Chapel

If you want a longer, more strenuous walk, cross the stone bridge at the north end of the park. This is the Freedom Trail. It is a walking, jogging and bicycling trail extending from the park into the mountains to the northeast of the city.

Ensign Peak Trail, also in the northeast, is a favorite, if you are interested in more Salt Lake City hikes. It is a short hike to Ensign Peak offering scenic view of the city.

In addition to downtown and Capitol Hill, there are more places in Salt Lake City which are worth a look.

Beyond Downtown Salt Lake City

Salt Lake City Public Library at Library Square

View of Salt Lake City from library roof — The library’s roof top garden is a great place to get a bird’s eye view of Library Square and the cityscape.

5 storey open lobby Salt Lake City library — The library’s entrance lobby is a wide open bright space.

International architectural firm Moshe Safdie and Associates and the local firm, VCBO Architecture designed this stunning building. It opened in February 2003. The inner entry hall mirrors the outside courtyard’s 5 storey, curved wall and limestone flooring. The hall is open with a skylight letting in tons of natural light. Check out the art gallery, spiral grand staircase and 3 glass elevators.

The old library next door is now the Leonardo. It is a museum combining science, technology and art to inspire creativity and innovation. What a great place to take the kids!

Statue figures plus live male doing cartwells — Enjoying the park at the Celebration of Life Monument

Parkland covers the large underground parking garage at Library Square. The playful Celebration of Life Monument, dedicated to the gift of life by organ, eye, tissue and blood donations, is a fun place to sit or burn off some energy.

This is the Place Heritage Park

The state park is at the junction of Emigration Canyon and the Salt Lake Valley. There are lots of things to see and do in the park’s 450 acres. You can spend a day here.

This is the Place Monument

Granite monument to early pioneers — Honoring all Utah’s early pioneers and settlers, this monument was developed by a committee which included representatives of many area religious groups

The monument sits close to where Brigham Young declared “This is the right place” in 1847. That declaration stopped the Latter-day Saint pioneers’ 1300-mile journey from Nauvoo Illinois and started their settlement in the valley. The monument honours those pioneers and all the explorers and settlers of the American West. It was dedicated in July 1947 marking the 100^th anniversary of the pioneers’ arrival.

Mormon Battalion Monument

2 groups of bronzed figures of Mormon Battalion — The monument honors the contributions of Latter-day Saint pioneers to the settlement of the US southwest.

The monument recognizes the accomplishments of over 500 Latter-day Saint volunteers who joined the US army supporting the war against Mexico. Their military pay, given to the families left behind in Iowa, helped finance the journey west. The battalion marched nearly 2,000 miles which is the longest infantry march in United States history. They left from Council Bluffs, Iowa in July 1846 and arrived in San Diego, California at the end of January 1847. The work they did along the way and in California helped open up the southwest for settlement.

Pony Express National Trail Monument

This monument to the riders of the Pony Express is near where it is believed riders stopped for fresh horses on their way to Sacramento California or St. Joseph Missouri. For 18 months in 1860-61, the pony express carried mail to and from the west coast. It was the only practical solution for mail delivery at the time and helped bind together a nation in civil war. Riders traveled day and night as fast as their horses could travel covering the 1800-mile trek in 10 days or less.

Monument of 2 horses with riders — Pony Express riders switched their horses for fresh mounts many times along the 1800-mile route.

The Pony Express National Historic Trail is the best guess for this historic route. There are short unimproved segments believed to be traces of the original trail but most of the actual trail markers are gone. You can travel the trail and stop at monuments along the way which tell that area’s pony express story. Behind the monument is a cabin representing what a relay station would have looked like. The completion the transcontinental telegraph line in 1861 ended the Pony Express.

Entrance gate This is the Place Heritage Park — Visit This is the Place Heritage Park to learn about pioneer life in Utah

Heritage Village Living History Experience

There are over 50 historic homes and structures. All buildings were moved here from elsewhere in the state. Collectively they depict a 19^th century Utah settlement. “Villagers” demonstrate crafts, trades and home-making skills. Use the hop on/hop off trains to help you see everything. Riding the park’s 3 trains is included in park admission. For the kids there are pony rides, petting farm, splash pad and a mini-train. There’s a gift shop, a candy shop and many other food options.

Trail Rides

Take a guided trail ride led by experienced wranglers to explore the base of Emigration Canyon and iconic views of the Salt Lake Valley. All skill levels are welcome.

Salt Lake City Map

Best Day trip from Salt Lake City – Bonneville Salt Flats

Be sure to check out our Bonneville Salt Flats post. The salts flats are one of the most unique landscapes in the world. In this guide, we provide you tips with how to visit and photograph this amazing location.

Couple on Bonneville Salt Flats — Click above for the Best Day trip from Salt Lake City.

The salt flats are about 46 square miles of environmentally sensitive area. Most of the area is perfectly flat with a thick crust of salty soil. There are a few low hills with bits of vegetation. The flats look like a lake bed covered with snow. In late fall, winter and early spring water typically covers the flats. This is a unique time to visit. Driving on the flats is not permitted when they are wet. Once the water has evaporated, usually by the start of summer, you are welcome to drive on them.

From downtown Salt Lake City, the flats are about 1.5 hours west on I80. Stop at the rest area about 10 miles from the Nevada border. There is information about the flats, washrooms and a tap to wash the salt off your feet when you return from your walk.

The Bonneville Speedway, famous for land speed records, is located on the flats near Wendover, Nevada. There is still racing on the salt flats but check ahead if that is your only reason to visit as racing is particularly susceptible to weather conditions.

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Spires of Assembly Hall Temple Square — The spires of Assembly Hall used to be chimneys.

Flathead River Valley Western Montana Road Trip

USA Montana

Western Montana – Ultimate 7-day Road Trip

by Valerie Vanr September 5, 2020

Western Montana has lots to offer the road tripper. There are many beautiful towns to explore between Whitefish and West Yellowstone plus Ghost Towns too! Flathead Lake, Missouri Headwaters State Park and Earthquake Lake are perfect places to be active in the great outdoors. Here are 7 towns and 8 things to see to make your western Montana road trip the ultimate!

7-Day Western Montana Road Trip Itinerary

This is a base itinerary for a leisurely road trip through western Montana. Simply enjoy the drive or pack your days full of things to do and places to see.

Day 1 Drive from Whitefish to Missoula
Day 2 Helena
Day 3 Bozeman
Day 4 Explore around Bozeman
Day 5 Butte
Day 6 West Yellowstone
Day 7 Explore around West Yellowstone

Western Montana Road Trip Map

Western Montana map showing road trip route — Western Montana Road Trip Map

7 Cool Western Montana Towns

Western Montana has many quaint towns to explore. Here are seven of the best.

Whitefish

This beautiful small town, on the shores of Whitefish Lake, is popular year-round. The cozy downtown hosts farmers markets, often with food trucks and live music. Explore the array of shops, coffee houses and restaurants. Western Montana’s craft beverages are available at the local brew pubs and distilleries. Opportunities for skiing, snowboarding, hiking, biking and boating are all close by.

Missoula

Beautiful Missoula is the second largest city in Montana. Explore the downtown which has many restaurants and brewpubs to satisfy any craving. The Clark Fork River flows beside the vibrant downtown.

You can walk or cycle the Riverfront Trail which lines both sides of the river in the downtown area. A number of parks and city sights are along the route.

Caras Park

There are often events under the pavilion in Caras Park. Prior to 1960 the park was an island separated from downtown by a braid of the river. It had a pavilion, skating rink, trails and a band shell. The braid was filled in the early 60’s.

Carousel for Missoula

Ride the beautiful antique carousel with its hand-carved and colorful horses. Hundreds of volunteers rebuilt it over 4 years putting in over 100,000 hours of labor.

Riders on antique Carousel Missoula — The Carousel for Missoula was restored by volunteers over 4 years.

Old Milwaukee Depot

This beautiful brick passenger depot, built in 1910, is the headquarters of the Boone and Crocket Club. The club is the oldest wildlife conservation organization in North America and was founded in 1887 by Theodore Roosevelt and George Bird Grinnell.

Brennan’s Wave

This is a man-made standing wave for kayakers. The Clark Fork River is popular with lovers of “white water”.

Missoula has a museum for everyone. At Smokejumper Visitor Center learn about the demanding and important job of smokejumpers who parachute into the backcountry to fight wild fires. You’ll discover the history and culture of western Montana at Fort Missoula. For art lovers, see the spirit of the American West in both traditional and contemporary works at the Montana Museum of Art and Culture and the Missoula Art Museum.

Helena

Last Chance Gulch is Helena’s main street. It is lined with historic buildings dating back to the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries. Gold was discovered in this gulch in 1864. $19 million worth of gold was mined in just four years, making it the second biggest placer gold deposit in Montana. The town grew rapidly, becoming the capital of the Montana Territory in 1875 and ultimately the state capital. The fire tower, the stunning Cathedral of Saint Helena and the Montana Capitol highlight aspects of Helena’s history.

Fire Tower

Fire was a constant danger to Helena’s wooden buildings in the 19^th century. The fire tower in Fire Tower Park was built in 1874. The first tower was destroyed by fire in 1869, only a year after being built. Today, the hilltop park is a great place to get a bird’s eye view of the city. The twin spires of the Cathedral of Saint Helena are visible to the north.

Cathedral of Saint Helena

The twin spires are 230 feet high and have 12-foot gold-leafed crosses on top. Look for the 29 statues of saints and other biblical figures on the cathedral’s exterior. It was constructed over 18 years, beginning in 1908. The first mass was held in 1914, even though it was still under construction. The last of 59 stained-glass windows was installed in 1926. Go inside to see their true splendor. The cathedral and the State Capitol building are both on the National Register of Historic Places.

Interior Cathedral of Saint Helena — The cathedral has 59 sets of stained-glass windows showing scenes from the bible.

Triple panel Stained-glass window Cathedral of Saint Helena — The cathedral has 59 sets of stained-glass windows showing scenes from the bible.

State Capitol

The sandstone and granite building, with its copper covered dome, was constructed between 1899 and 1902. The capitol is the center of a 62-acre campus with state monuments and memorials throughout this beautiful green space.

Livingston

Person standing in road with buildings in background — Beautiful buildings from the early 20th century line the downtown Livingston streets

This small town on the Yellowstone River has a charming downtown with many building storefronts as they were in the early 20^th century. The Livingston Depot is the restored 1902 Northern Pacific Railroad station which houses a railroad museum today. Enjoy a picnic in the park beside the depot.

Livingston Depot building, railroad museum — The Livingston Depot railroad museum is in a restored Northern Pacific station

Bozeman

One of the fastest growing cities in the US, Bozeman is the perfect base as you explore the great outdoors. World-renowned fly fishing areas, hiking, rock climbing and skiing areas are all nearby. Yellowstone National Park is less than 100 miles away.

We decided to spend our morning hiking Drinking Horse Mountain, northeast of Bozeman. This moderate, 2.4-mile, round trip hike provides beautiful 360-degree views of Bridger Canyon and the Gallatin Valley.

Brider Canyon vista Western Montana — Beautiful Bridger Canyon is visible from the top of Drinking Horse Mountain

Person on trail at Drinking Horse Mountain — Drinking Horse Mountain trail is hard-packed gravel and relatively wide but the best part is the incredible scenery!

To learn more about the natural, geological and cultural history of the area, visit the Museum of the Rockies. It is part of Montana State University and a Smithsonian affiliate.

Dinosaur sculpture outside Museum of the Rockies — Museum of the Rockies is famous for its extensive fossil collection.

Philipsburg

Philipsburg is Montana’s sapphire town. Pan for these gems at several shops in town. Buy a bucket of gravel then wash and sort it to find your sapphires. You can also visit Gem Mountain Sapphire Mine 20 miles south of town. If “mining” your own gems doesn’t appeal to you, several stores in town sell beautiful sapphires and sapphire jewelry. Be sure to wander the pretty downtown and check out the local shops.

Left side Gravel bin and buckets right side Sapphire Gallery shopfront — Pan for your own sapphires from a bucket of gravel or visit a local sapphire gallery and save yourself some work.

Granite County Museum provides some history of silver mining in the area. In the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries the area around Philipsburg had silver, manganese, sapphire, and even gold mines. The towns of Granite, Tower, Rumsey, Black Pine and others housed thousands of hard working miners. Today you see only broken shacks and tailing piles.

Sayre Building Philipsburg Western Montana — The colorful Sayre building housed the First National Bank until 1893. Over the years it has held a number of general mercantile businesses.

West Yellowstone

This small town services the housing and food needs of thousands of Yellowstone National Park visitors each year as it has done since the railroad arrived in 1908.

Learn about West Yellowstone and the national park at these 3 attractions.

Museum of the Yellowstone

The museum highlights the history of the town and travel to the park. It is in the restored Union Pacific Railroad Depot and part of the Oregon Short Line Terminus Historic District.

Yellowstone Giant Screen Theater

This IMAX theatre offers new film releases, in both IMAX and regular format. See the 1994 IMAX documentary “Yellowstone” which shows Yellowstone National Park today and as it was a hundred and 100,000 years ago.

Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center

This not-for-profit wildlife park and educational facility provides sanctuary to grizzly bears and gray wolves which are unable to survive in the wild.

8 Things to See in Western Montana

As well as the great towns, here are more fantastic things to see on your western Montana road trip.

Flathead Lake

This is a must-see for water enthusiasts. The lake is 27 miles long, 15 miles wide and 300 feet deep. It is the largest natural freshwater lake in the western US. There are many boat launches making it perfect for fishing, kayaking, boating or sailing. Swimmable beaches line much of the lake’s shoreline. There are a number of islands to explore. Wild Horse Island is a day-use state park, home to wild horses, bighorn sheep, coyotes, deer and a variety of birds.

Aerial view blue-green waters of Flathead Lake — The clear blue waters of Flathead Lake let us glympse below the surface

Miracle of America Museum

Left boat right truck and trailer carrying cars — Miracle of America Museum

This is a great place to learn about the culture of the US through its collection of 340,000 artifacts. You can find almost anything here, from full-size planes to a 1912 school house and even bumper sticker collections. There are all types of vehicles and you can climb into most of them. It is the perfect place for the kids to burn off some of that pent-up road trip energy.

National Bison Range

This 18,800-acre wildlife refuge is the main bison research center in the US. It is home to many species of animals and over 200 species of birds. You could see black bears, elk and deer as well as bison. Check in at the visitor center to learn about the history of the area, both natural and cultural. Staff will let you know where wildlife has been seen so that you can watch for them as you tour the refuge.

People in front of visitor center's bison model — Learn about the efforts underway to ensure the survival of the bison, almost hunted to extinction in the 1800s.

Bison on hill National Bison Range — Part of the herd of bison at the National Bison Range

The best way to tour is to drive the range’s well-graded and maintained gravel roads. Try all of these routes or whichever you have time for.

West loop – 1-mile loop, close to the visitor center.
Prairie Drive – 14-mile round trip, with two-way traffic, along the flats of Mission Creek.
Red Sleep Mountain Drive – 10-mile one-way loop which gains 2,000 feet in altitude with many switchbacks and 10% grades along the way. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours.

Switchbacks on road in National Bison Range — Red Sleep Mountain Drive is a 10-mile 1-way loop with many switchbacks.

The range was established in 1908 to help with efforts to save the bison which had been hunted to near extinction in the 19^th century. There had been 10’s of millions of bison in North America up to that time. Today the herd on the range is maintained at between 350 and 500 animals ensuring that the habitat can properly support them. Surplus animals are donated or sold to parks and other wildlife refuges. The National Bison Range is one of the last intact, publicly-owned, intermountain native grasslands in the US and a diverse mixture of grassland, douglas fir and ponderosa pine forest.

Montana Ghost Towns

In the late 1800s and early 1900s, thousands of miners, often with their wives and children, came to western Montana to work its many mines. Towns sprang up and boomed in these mining areas. When the mines closed, miners moved on to the next opportunity, often leaving the towns abandoned.

Today, the conditions of these deserted towns vary. Some towns are completely reclaimed by nature, with nothing remaining but broken shacks and building skeletons. However other towns have been preserved through the stewardship of concerned Montana citizens. Due to their generosity, we can explore some of these frontier towns and see what life was like in the early 1900’s.

Click here to learn more about our visit to the western Montana Ghost Towns of Coloma, Garnet, Elkhorn, Granite, Coolidge, Bannack and Virginia City/Nevada City.

Old Montana Prison Complex

This complex was built by convict labor. It operated from 1861 to 1979. The walls are 24 feet high and are buried 4 feet deep. Prisoners couldn’t tunnel out. You can see the cells, the shower chambers, guard towers and more.

Exterior wall Old Montana Prison — The walls of the prison are 24 feet high and 4 feet are below ground to discourage tunneling.

Today the complex houses five museums: Old Montana Prison, Powell County Museum, Frontier Montana Museum, Yesterday’s Playthings and the Montana Auto Museum. Admission covers all museums. The auto museum is ranked one of the 10 best in the country. It’s a great place to learn about early frontier life in western Montana.

Missouri Headwaters State Park

Spot where Madison and Jefferson Rivers merge — The Madison and Jefferson Rivers merge here and a short distance away merge with the Gallatin to form the Missouri River.

In this 532-acre state park the Jefferson, Madison and Gallatin Rivers merge becoming the Missouri River, the longest river in the US. Enjoy fishing or boating on the beautiful clear waters. Many species of birds and animals come to this easily available, clean water source. There are hiking trails throughout the state park.

Boat and people shore of Missouri River — This beautiful still section of the Missouri River is perfect for boating and fishing.

Interpretive displays discuss the presence of Native American tribes in these areas for over a thousand years. The site was also significant as a stopping point for the Lewis & Clark Expedition. After exploring the 2,300 miles of the Missouri River, the expedition stopped here for 3 days in late 1805.

Today, the Missouri headwaters continue to offer a great place to explore nature and replenish the body and the soul.

Couple posing on hilltop over Gallatin River Western Montana — Missouri Headwaters State Park has many trails along the rivers which merge to form the Missouri.

Lewis & Clark Caverns State Park

Montana’s first state park has one of the largest known caverns in the northwest US. Guided tours allow you to visit these caverns. There are trails to hike or bike, interpretive displays and a gift shop. Immerse yourself in the beautiful western Montana countryside by staying in the large campground.

Earthquake Lake

Section of hillside without trees debris pile at base — The canyonside still shows where the material for the earthen dam which Earthquake Lake came from.

Earthquake Lake Visitor Center tells the geologic story of the Hebgen Lake Earthquake. It presents the facts behind the 7.5 magnitude quake and the changes triggered by the 35 seconds of intense shaking at midnight on August 17, 1959. Over 250 people were trapped in Madison Canyon. Some injured and needing medical attention and all needing to be rescued. When calm returned, 28 people had been killed. Their names are inscribed on a plaque at Memorial Boulder on the trail above the visitor center.

Looking southeast you’ll see the canyon wall where rock, dirt and trees once were. The massive landslide was a 225-foot-thick mountain of shattered rock, boulders and splintered trees. Earthquake Lake formed behind this natural dam on the Madison River. The lake is 5 miles long, one-third of a mile wide, and 190 feet deep. Many people fish the lake, both from boats and the shore, but watch your lines on the underwater debris.

Information panel foreground Earthquake Lake background — Earthquake Lake from visitor center. Interpretive signs are found throughout the canyon describing the story of the night of August 17/18, 1959.

Head east on Highway 287 and stop at some of the interpretive spots along the way. You’ll learn what happened in some of these spots during the hours shortly after the quake and the human stories of fear, survival, loss and heroism.

Western Montana Attractions and Map

People enjoying beverage in Whitefish bar — There are lots of downtown Whitefish restaurants and pubs where you can enjoy some dinner and beverages.

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USA Montana

Montana’s 7 Best Ghost Towns

by Valerie Vanr July 30, 2020

Enjoy a beautiful drive through mountain scenery as you visit the ghost towns that played central roles in Montana’s late 19^th and early 20^th century mining history. Learn about the first gold rush in 1862 and town of Bannack. More boom towns followed, including Coolidge, settled in 1913. Neither plentiful ore nor superior mining technology could guarantee the survival of many of these early mining towns.

This road trip will introduce you to Montana ghost towns and frontier life. See the best preserved towns of Bannack and Garnet and the almost vanished town of Coloma. End your tour at the re-born, commercial, towns of Nevada City and Virginia City.

No matter what type of ghost town experience you are looking for, you’ll find it in these Old West towns in Montana!

Montana Ghost Towns Itinerary

Bannack Ghost Town/State Park (2-3 hours)
Coolidge Ghost Town (2 hours)
Granite Ghost Town/State Park (1 hour)
Garnet Ghost Town (2 hours)
Coloma Ghost Town (1/2 hour)
Elkhorn Ghost Town/State Park (1/2 hour)
Nevada City and Virginia City (2 hours)

You can explore these 7 ghost towns easily in 3 days.

Montana Ghost Towns Map

Map of Montana Ghost Towns road trip — Map of road trip route to see Montana’s Best Ghost Towns

You can also download our interactive Ghost Towns Map below.

Bannack Ghost Town

The streets of Bannack today are much different than when Bannack first sprang up.

Hotel Meade and Skinner Saloon Main Street Bannack — Picturesque Courthouse/Hotel Meade and Skinner Saloon dominate Main Street

The first major gold discovery, in the new territory of Montana, occurred here in the summer of 1862. The town quickly grew from a tent city of 400 to a thriving gold town of over 3,000, by spring 1863.

Today Bannack has over 50 buildings lining its main street. Most are log and frame construction, which was typical in the primitive towns that were built around the frontier gold discoveries. Bannack served temporarily as first capital of the new Montana Territory.

Unfortunately, the town’s story is typical of mining boom towns. When the mining slows, so does the town. The last mining in the area was in the late 1930’s.

Bannack Masonic Lodge and School — Bannack needed a public school. The Masonic Lodge built this building providing a school problem and a meeting place.

As the town’s population decreased, concerned local residents worked to preserve Bannack. The Beaverhead County Museum Association began purchasing Bannack’s vacant buildings. In 1954 the county donated all of the acquired buildings to the state, with the stipulation that they be preserved as a ghost town. In 1961, Bannack was designated a National Historic Landmark. Shortly thereafter, Bannack State Park was established. Bannack is considered one of Montana’s best preserved ghost towns.

Check out our post Bannack – Gold Town to Ghost Town for even more photos of Bannack and details of the history of the town and the gold mining around Grasshopper Creek.

Coolidge Ghost Town

Today Coolidge is a collection of building ruins on the east side of Elkhorn Creek. These buildings plus the Elkhorn Mine and the ruins of a huge silver processing mill make up the Elkhorn/Coolidge Historic District. To visit the district you must park in a central parking area and walk about a mile south along the creek to Coolidge. A bridge across the creek allows access to the mill ruins. While the mine is not accessible, you can see one of the entrances to it by walking further south of the mill.

Development of Elkhorn Mine and Mill

Silver ore was discovered in the area in 1873. Over the next 30 years, a number of small mining operations were established. In the early 1900s, William R. Allen, local entrepreneur and politician, created the Boston-Montana Development Corporation. He began buying up local mining claims with the intention of developing a silver mine and mill. With the business contacts he made while in politics, he attracted investors both inside and outside of the US. Large scale investment was needed, since in addition to building the mill, a rail line was needed to get the partially refined ore out of the mountain valley.

Elkhorn Mine entrance and nearby structures — Closed entrance to Elkhorn Mine and ruins of some structures nearby

A rail line from Divide to the mine was laid through the valleys of the Big Hole and Wise Rivers, then along the Elkhorn Creek and ended in Coolidge. It was about 38 miles long and was constructed between 1917 and 1919. It carried predominantly freight and passengers to and from Coolidge.

Unfortunately, in the early 1920’s, just as the mine and mill operations were ready to go into production, silver prices plummeted. At the same time, tests of the first ore pulled from the mine determined that its silver content was too low. The ore was not worth processing in the mill designed solely for the refinement of silver. Further mining was necessary to reach the higher grade ore.

Elkhorn Mill in 1910s and now — The huge Elkhorn Mill, built in the late 1910’s, is now in ruins but the extent of the mill is still visible.

Even though there was large scale investment in the most modern equipment and techniques, and a known ore deposit existed, the drop in silver price was too much for Boston-Montana to withstand. The company was forced into receivership in 1923. Allen lost his personal fortune and control of the company. A reorganized Boston-Montana Corporation was able to mine higher grade ore, refine it, and send it for processing. The mine never produced silver in the volumes it needed to survive.

When the mine floundered, so did the railroad, ending up in receivership twice. A flood in 1927 destroyed a large portion of track and the railroad never recovered. It operated for a short while in the early 1930’s. The railroad track was removed completely in 1940.

Coolidge

The town’s first residents arrived in 1913. As work progressed on the mine, mill and railroad, families began arriving. The population rose enough for a school district to be organized in 1918. By 1922 the town had telephone, electrical and postal services.

With the mine never reaching its full potential, people began to move on to other places for more secure work. The town gradually faded away with the school closing in 1927 and the postal service discontinued in 1932. The population peaked at 350 people, but by 1933 the town was abandoned.

Tyro House Coolidge Ghost Town — Tyro House is the only fully standing roofed building left in Coolidge Ghost Town

Interior Tyro House Coolidge — Interior of Tyro House

Be sure to check out Tyro House, the home of Frank Tyro who served as Coolidge’s postmaster for the ten years the post office was in operation (1922-1932).

Granite Ghost Town

Granite State Park consists of the ruins of the Mine Superintendent’s house and the Miners’ Union Hall. The 5-mile road from Philipsburg to Granite climbs about 1,280 feet and is narrow, steep and winding. It can be rough for cars so take it slow and don’t attempt the drive if the road is wet and muddy.

Silver was first found in the area in 1865. In 1875 a massive body of silver laden rock was discovered and the mine and town of Granite were born. The mine produced about $300,000 worth of silver per year at its peak which today is worth about $10 million.

The town was the largest silver mining camp in Montana with a population of about 3,000 people by the early 1890’s. The town was very “civilized”. It had a library, a hospital, a school and several churches along with the usual mining camp staples of saloons and brothels. The Miners’ Union Hall, which you can see today, was built in 1890. It hosted many of the town’s dances, plays, and large meetings.

The Sherman Silver Purchase Act of 1890 required the US government purchase millions of ounces of silver each year. It was repealed in 1893. This caused the demand for silver to drop and silver prices to decrease by almost 25% by year’s end. The mine was closed and most of the residents left. A year later there were only about 140 people left in Granite.

While the falling price of silver spelled the demise of Granite, it helped lead to the rise of Garnet.

Garnet Ghost Town

View of Garnet buildings from above — Panoramic View of Garnet Ghost Town

Garnet is one of the Montana’s best preserved and least visited ghost towns. It offers an excellent, non-commercial experience. There is a small visitor center, self-guided trails and interpretive signs throughout the town, explaining the history of the buildings. Several of these buildings are open to view. They have items on display, typical of those used in the building’s past.

While placer gold was discovered in Bear Creek in 1865, the lack of road access to the gold areas and little water outside spring runoff meant few miners attempted to work the deposits. Falling silver prices in 1893 brought miners and investment from other areas to the Garnet range to mine the rich veins of quartz and gold ore. Hard rock mining here required investment in shafts, stamp mills and a road.

The road was built in 1895 linking the new town of Garnet to Bearmouth, on the new Northern Pacific Railroad, about 10 miles away. Rail was the best way to move the partially processed ore to larger centers for refining. A stamp mill was built shortly after completion of the road. The timing was perfect. In 1896, a rich vein of gold was found at the Nancy Hanks Mine, just west of town.

Kelley's Saloon Garnet Ghost Town — Kelley’s Saloon is 1 of only 4 buildings to survive the 1912 Fire which destroyed Garnet’s commercial district

Bar with cans and bottles Kelley's Saloon — Kelley’s Saloon welcomed miners at its bar for many years

Skilled hard rock miners brought their families with them when they came to Garnet, making it more of a family town than earlier mining towns. Dances, hay rides and picnics were held providing more family-oriented entertainment. In January 1898 the population of Garnet was about 1,000. There were 4 stores, 4 hotels, 3 livery stables, 2 barbershops, union hall, school, butcher shop, candy shop, doctor’s office, assay office and 13 saloons.

The gold became harder to find after the seams were worked extensively in the 1890’s. By 1905 only about 150 people remained in Garnet. In 1912, a fire destroyed much of the commercial district as there was little water in town for fire fighting. Only Adams Store, Kelly’s Saloon, Davey’s Store and Wells Hotel were saved. When the US entered WWI in 1917, most of the miners and their families left Garnet and headed for defense-related jobs. By 1920 Garnet was a ghost town.

Wells Hotel Garnet Ghost Town — J.K. Wells Hotel was the most impressive building in Garnet when it opened in 1897. Weather and vandals have taken a toll.

Dining Room Wells Hotel — Dining Room of the J.K. Wells Hotel with the oak staircase visible in the background

The town’s remote location helped protect the buildings and even furniture which had often been left behind. These abandoned buildings welcomed miners again in 1934 as gold prices doubled and lured about 250 people back to the area. World War II drew people away from Garnet again. A moratorium on the use of dynamite, except to support the war effort, brought the end to mining at Garnet. The post office closed in 1942.

In 1972 a descendent of one of the original miners donated the Anderson mining claim to the Garnet Preservation Association and Bureau of Land Management (BLM). The claim contained many of the commercial buildings, old town jail, school and numerous cabins. BLM stabilized many of the town’s buildings and oversees its preservation today.

After leaving Garnet on your way to Coloma, watch for a building on the left. The remains of a second cabin are set back in the trees.

Stage Coach Rest Stop

Person walking to intact cabin — Built as a fire warden’s cabin in the 1940’s this rustic cabin is now a winter emergency shelter.

The intact cabin is an emergency shelter for snowmobilers and cross country skiers using winter trails. It was built in the 1940’s for a fire warden hired by locals to watch for wildfires.

The cabin behind it is all that remains of an 1890’s stage coach rest stop. The 15-mile trip between Coloma and Bearmouth, a journey of about 40 minutes today, took most of a day in the late 19^th century. Travelers welcomed a break from the bumpy road.

Coloma Ghost Town

All that remains of the town of Coloma today are a few partial cabins.

Ruins of cabin in ghost town — Ruins of a cabin in Coloma

Coloma was settled as early as 1865 with the first wave of gold fever in the Garnets but grew rapidly after lode deposits were discovered in 1897. The town reached its peak at the turn of the century.

Two stamping mills were constructed in the area so that ore could be crushed locally and then hauled to Helena, Butte or Anaconda for treatment.

Mammoth Mine was the largest at Coloma, yielding about $200,000 of gold over the next 20 years. Mining in the area continued into the 1950’s, but the town of Coloma was essentially abandoned by 1918.

Sand Park Cemetery

Sandy Park Cemetery and grave marker close-up — Some of Coloma’s miners are buried in nearby Sandy Park Cemetery

This simple cemetery is the final resting place for the Coloma miners who did not have family elsewhere, or the money to be buried in larger towns. The grave markers provide about all of the information that is known now about these people buried between 1898 and 1914. Enjoy the quiet of this peaceful place.

Elkhorn Ghost Town

The town of Elkhorn has two picturesque buildings from its mining era: Fraternity Hall and Gillian Hall. These 1890s building have been preserved and are a part of Elkhorn State Park, Montana’s smallest state park. They are open to the public. The rest of the buildings are private residences.

While silver was first discovered in the Elkhorn Mountains as far back as 1868, it was not until 1875 that ore was discovered at what became the Elkhorn Mine. By 1888, the mine was producing significant amounts and the local economy thrived. It had produced 8,902,000 ounces of silver and 8,500 ounces of gold and more than 4 million pounds of lead by 1900.

The volatile price of silver led to the mine being worked sporadically over the next 30 years. Elkhorn Mine closed for good in 1912. Its tailings were reworked several times in the next 3 decades. By 1951 all activity ended.

As the silver mine developed, the town of Elkhorn grew. It thrived in the 1880s with its population reaching 2,500 people. A post office opened in 1884 and the railroad arrived in 1886. But as the mine’s production declined, so did the town. By 1900, there were less than 1,000 residents but the town still had a fraternity hall, a post office, a church, a school and over a dozen saloons. The post office closed in 1924 and the Northern Pacific Railroad removed its tracks in 1931. The town was abandoned in the 1970s, except for a handful of residents.

Nevada City and Virginia City

Nevada City and Virginia City, while no longer ghost towns, are famous tourist attractions. They are the perfect places to experience what Montana’s gold rush days were like.

Ride the train between the towns, pan for gold, attend a live theater show, shop in unique gift and specialty shops and enjoy fine dining. There are plenty of accommodations including homey historic lodging options.

In Nevada City, visit the Old Town Living History Museum & Music Hall. It has one of the largest collections of old west items, not in a Smithsonian museum. There are over 100 buildings built between 1863 and 1900. This is a great place to experience the culture and times of early Montana. Weekends in the summer come alive here with re-enactors who bring the gold rush era to life. Walk among them and experience the 1860s.

In 1863 the richest placer gold deposit in the Rocky Mountain’s was discovered in Alder Gulch and created Montana’s biggest gold rush. By 1864 the area was home to 30,000 people trying to strike it rich. The total value of the gold recovered is estimated at over $100 million.

Virginia City was the 2^nd territorial capital between 1865 and 1875. Like the other gold mining towns, as the gold became more difficult to find, the people dispersed to other places. They left behind commercial buildings, simple log cabins and larger Victorian styled residences. Charlie and Sue Bovey were among the first to acknowledge the significance of preserving Virginia City. In the 1940s, they purchased and stabilized some of the structures. Their family’s efforts helped ensure that the town was designated a National Historic Landmark.

Ghost Towns Interactive Map

While we have presented this loop route starting from Bannack State Park, you can start anywhere. Here is an interactive map to help you navigate.

Person standing between ruins of 2 cabins — Building Ruins in Coloma Ghost Town

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Montana USA

Bannack – Gold Town To Ghost Town

by Valerie Vanr July 29, 2020

Visit Bannack and go back to the days of mining on the frontier. Enter the many well-preserved buildings lining the main street of this ghost town, now state park. Learn about the boom-to-bust cycles of the former gold mining town and about the hanging of the town sheriff by vigilantes in 1864.

Bannack Ghost Town (State Park)

Today Bannack is very different than when it began over 150 years ago. In 1862 it was just a camp of tents along Grasshopper Creek. Now there are over 50 very well-preserved buildings along the main street. In 1862 you were one of 400 or so miners staking your claim in the newly discovered placer gold find. Today, you are one of a handful of visitors walking the rustic wooden sidewalks in this old western town.

Buildings along Bannack Main Street — Main Street Bannack

Start at the visitor center to get oriented. Here you’ll learn about early Bannack and its role in the first major gold discovery two years before Montana became a US territory.

You are free to wander the town at your leisure. You can enter most of the buildings. Many have examples of items which were used in the building or in the era it was built. Here are some that were highlights for us.

Site Map from Bannack State Park brochure — Click on this Site Map from the state park brochure for a larger image

Bannack Must-Sees

If you are short of time, be sure to make these stops a priority.

City Drug Store

City Drug Interior showing barrels store counters — City Drug was used as a drug store but also as a general merchandise store

This building was primarily a drug store but also saw time as a general store and an assay office. It was even used as the school when the regular school was under repair.

County Courthouse/Hotel Meade

This gorgeous 2-story red brick building was built in 1875 as the Beaverhead County Courthouse, the first brick courthouse in Montana. It closed in 1881 when the county seat moved to Dillon.

The building sat empty for 10 years until it was purchased by Dr. John Meade. He added a large kitchen, dining room and living quarters to the already large building, converting it into the fancy Hotel Meade. It became the center of Bannack society and a home for many travelers. The hotel closed and re-opened several times as the prosperity of Bannack changed, closing permanently in the 1940’s.

Skinner Saloon

Cyrus Skinner opened his saloon here in spring 1863. He was friends with the town’s sheriff, Henry Plummer from their time together in San Quentin Penitentiary. While Plummer may have been sheriff, he was also reputed to be the leader of an outlaw gang, the “Innocents”. The saloon was a popular place for them to gather.

Long wooden bar in Skinner Saloon — Skinner Saloon’s bar held the drinks of many miners looking for relaxation

Vigilante justice often “solved” criminal issues in early mining camps. The Innocents were accused of robbing and murdering many miners in the last half of 1863. Though there was little evidence tying Plummer to the Innocents, vigilantes decided they would hang Plummer and the rest of the gang.

On January 10, 1864, Plummer and two others were hanged on the gallows just outside of town. By the end of January the vigilantes had executed over 20 of the gang and had run the rest out of the territory.

It was alleged that Skinner was a spy for the gang. He abandoned his saloon and ran but was tracked down and executed. The building was converted to a general merchandise store.

Bannack Methodist Church

When the circuit riders came to town they used whatever building was available for their church services. They might even use a saloon. One of these traveling ministers convinced his congregation that they needed a building which was solely used for worship. In 1877, the Bannack Methodist Church was built and is the only church ever built in Bannack.

Bannack Jails

Left Bannack's two jails Right jail interior rings in floor — Prisoners in Bannack’s jails were shackled to the metal rings in the floors

The building on the right with the tiny window is the first jail built in the Montana Territory. It was built in 1863. Prisoners were chained to the metal rings in the floor. If the prisoners looked through its front window, they saw the gallows in the valley, a reminder of their potential fate.

Masonic Lodge and School House

Schooling in Bannack’s early days was paid for by the children’s families much like private school today. The first classes were held in a home but as the town grew, a basic log building was made available to serve as a school. The number of children continued to grow and, by 1874, the need for a public school became apparent.

Person entering inside Bannack school — First floor of the lodge was the school room for grades K to 8.

Bannack’s Masonic Lodge came to the rescue. They constructed a building which provided the lodge a proper meeting space on the second floor and a K-8^th grade public school on the main floor. This school operated here for 70 years closing in the 1940’s.

For a stunning view of Bannack and the valley, walk up the hill to the cemetery.

On your way, you’ll pass Bachelors Row behind the church.

Bachelors Row

Group of small one-roomed cabins — One room cabins for first miners to give them winter shelter

The first miners who arrived after the discovery of gold were men traveling without their families. They slept in bedrolls under the stars, or in small tents, or even in wagons close to their claims. They spent all their time on their mining efforts. This worked fine in the summer and the early fall. The harsh winter was coming and to withstand it more suitable housing needed to be found. The dense row of small one-room cabins on the north of the main street was the solution. Each had a corner fireplace, a couple bunks, several shelves and a table with stools.

Cemetery

High on the hill is the fenced cemetery which was used between 1862 and 1880. Everyone was buried in this cemetery, regardless of vocation or wealth. Now, most of the grave markers are gone. The more sturdy markers are still readable. You’ll note that death claimed both the young and the old.

This is a quiet place to look out over the valley and imagine what it looked like when gold fever struck here in 1862.

Bannack Ghost Town from above — View of Bannack from the cemetery on the hill above town

Bannack’s History – Boom to Bust

Bannack began as a small mining camp for the miners working the first gold discovery in the area.

Gold Rush at Grasshopper Creek 1862

In July 1862, John White and a group of prospectors discovered placer gold along the banks of Grasshopper Creek. Their camp was several miles downstream. As this placer gold was quite plentiful, White filed a claim to protect his discovery. Unfortunately for him, that put the word out. The first gold rush, in the soon to be territory of Montana, was on!

Bannack Incorporation 1863

The mining camp that would become Bannack held 400 people in fall 1862. By spring 1863 it had grown to 3,000 people. The town was incorporated in the fall and was appointed the territorial capital when US Congress created the Montana Territory on May 26, 1864.

Residents and pastimes of Bannack

Most residents prospected for gold. Others realized there was money to be made providing supplies and services to the miners and their families. Residents included miners, storekeepers, freighters, saloon owners, blacksmiths and their families.

Bannack had the usual places for miners to be entertained and spend their hard earned gold. There were saloons, gambling halls and brothels. “Hurdy Gurdy” Girls, who danced with men to entertain them, were paid by the dance. The girls were not considered “respectable” though most of them were not prostitutes.

Card table, bar, person standing at piano Skinner Saloon — Play the tables or enjoy the music at Skinner Saloon

There were dancing parties two or three times a week. These were considered acceptable and agreeable entertainment for married and single “Ladies”. Picnics, horseback rides and fishing provided residents with some fun in the summer. In the winter there was ice skating and sledding.

Bannack and Gold Mines persevere 1864-1902

The easy to reach placer deposits along Grasshopper Creek were quickly gathered by the huge influx of miners in the first months. By summer 1864 many of the first miners were lured away by other gold strikes. One of those strikes was near Virginia City. The territorial capital moved to Virginia City in February 1865.

In addition to the placer deposits that were discovered by White, Montana’s first quartz mining claims were made here in 1862. Stamp mills to crush the mined ore soon operated alongside the placer mining. Gold was mined from both hard rock and placer deposits. As technologies changed in both methods of mining, Bannack went through boom and bust periods.

Beaverhead County Seat 1870’s

Bannack's Hotel Meade — Bannack Courthouse was the first brick courthouse in Montana

The town survived through the 1870s as the county seat until it moved to Dillon in 1881. Many of our must-see buildings were built in this time period.

Mining Higher Placer Deposits 1880’s

When the easy Grasshopper Creek placer deposits were depleted, ditches were dug to bring water to the deposits higher up the valley sides. The water, under high pressure, washed away the dirt over the beds into sluice boxes to recover the gold. This mining method continued into the 1890’s when the placer miners focus shifted to the gravels of Grasshopper Creek.

Sluice box and other artifacts — A stream of water pushes gold laden gravel through the sluice box and the gold settles out

Dredging Gold of Grasshopper Creek 1895 – 1902

The first successful electric gold dredge in the United States was built here in 1895. The dredge boat was a large platform onto which the creek’s gravel was dropped after being pulled from the creek by massive buckets. The gravel was sluiced on the boat separating the gold from the rest of the stone which was returned to the creek. This was such an efficient method of mining that 4 more dredges were constructed over the next 7 years. By 1902 the gold in the gravel of the creek had been mined out. This was the last major gold mining activity in Bannack.

Bannack’s slow decline 1902-1954

As the value of gold and its accessibility decreased, mining was no longer economically viable and Bannack slowly died. In the 1930’s the mines didn’t operate regularly and they were closed down completely by World War II. The post office closed in 1938 and the school closed in the early 1950’s.

Pure Gold of Grasshopper Creek

The gold mined from the placer deposits here was incredibly pure. Gold is typically found with silver and usually the gold nuggets are between 80% and 95% gold. Grasshopper Creek’s nuggets typically had a gold content of 99.5%, similar to refined gold. Shops accepted this pure gold directly as currency.

Bannack's Assay Office and City Drug — Assay Office and City Drug

It is estimated that the mining district around the town produced gold valued at about $12 million between 1862 and 1930 when the average gold price was about $20 per ounce. This is one of Montana’s most productive historic gold mining areas. Records note that the placer deposits alone, between 1862 and 1876, were estimated to have produced about $3 million of very pure gold.

Preservation of Bannack 1954 to now

As early as 1947 concerned Montana residents began preservation efforts as Bannack emptied. Beaverhead County Museum Association began purchasing buildings and property in the 1950s. The association owned 17 properties and donated them to the state in 1954. A stipulation of this sale was that Bannack not be made into a “tourist town” but be preserved as the “ghost” of a town.

Bannack became a National Historic Landmark in 1961 helping to ensure this legacy would endure. Bannack State Park was established in the 1960’s. The state purchased the remaining buildings over the next 3 decades.

The guidebook for the park notes “Bannack is ‘preserved rather than restored, protected rather than exploited’. We attempt to retain an atmosphere of the past with a sense of remote isolation and abandonment“. They have succeeded.

To experience a bit more of what it was like when Bannack was a thriving town, visit during Bannack Days.

Bannack Days

This 2-day annual event, held on the 3^rd weekend each July, celebrates frontier life. You can learn how to pan for gold. There are demonstrations of old-time dancing and pioneer crafts such as candle making. Enjoy wagon rides, music and fun for the whole family. There may even be a gunfight on Main Street.

Person ready for gunfight on main street — Bannack’s Main Street was likely the site of a few gunfights

Know before you Go – Bannack State Park

Where is Bannack Ghost Town?

Bannack is 26 miles southwest of Dillon Montana. Take I15 south to Highway 278 then head west for 17 miles. You’ll see the State Park Sign at Bannack Bench Road then it is just 4 miles south of there to the parking lot. Bannack State Park main road directional sign

Is there Camping in Bannack State Park?

Yes. The state park has two campgrounds but no hookups or dump station.

Is Bannack open year-round?

Yes though hours vary depending on the season. Check the Montana State Park website.

Person in front of Bannack's Hotel Meade — Bannack Courthouse was converted to the luxurious Hotel Meade in the 1890s

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